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Whats causing this oil leak??

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TurboFever

15+ Year Contributor
100
0
Aug 1, 2005
Paterson, New Jersey
What can be causing this oil leak and my valve cover to look like that??

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/IMG_0170.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/IMG_0174.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/02a79820.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/f29c54f5.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/be0c9a9a.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/4637645c.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/IMG_0161.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/b20fd028.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/1c155510.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/dominiricanpa/Eclipse%20Head/c9f7103a.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
 
Well, I'm on dialup so I was a little overwhelmed by the quantity of your pictures. First, that beautiful color is called patina. Almost all valve covers look like that when removed. You can have it removed, but it really doesn't hurt anything as far as I can tell. Now, as far as the leak, you have cam seals and your power steering pump and associated potentials right in that area. From the looks of the intake ports, you might check your turbo return line for coking. Just a thought from far far away. Have the head checked for straightness, and for sure do the proper timing belt replacement as we have preached on here time and time again. You also have a crankshaft seal to deal with too. Replace it and catch that one before it becomes an issue.


Good Luck
 
Old Mitsu Tech said:
Well, I'm on dialup so I was a little overwhelmed by the quantity of your pictures. First, that beautiful color is called patina. Almost all valve covers look like that when removed. You can have it removed, but it really doesn't hurt anything as far as I can tell. Now, as far as the leak, you have cam seals and your power steering pump and associated potentials right in that area. From the looks of the intake ports, you might check your turbo return line for coking. Just a thought from far far away. Have the head checked for straightness, and for sure do the proper timing belt replacement as we have preached on here time and time again. You also have a crankshaft seal to deal with too. Replace it and catch that one before it becomes an issue.


Good Luck

Actually the discolor is just oil stains. Patina is usually accociated with copper turning green or bronze in color due to chemical reaction between the air and the actual material. It could technically be called patina because it is a superficial coating which causes a color change but generally in laymens terms, it is oil stains which regardless of the name, it is normal.

The leak is partially due to the vc gasket. The trails on the head clearly show that the vc gasket is leaking.
 
Looks to be just 10 years of common DSM oil buildup.

MitsuTech is correct about the Patina, but is more commonly known as a oil stain and is just buildup of dried oil residue. I did in a aluminum safe hot tank will make it look like new, however is not necessary, as I also do not know of any harmful side affects of Patina, or oil staining.

It looks as if the valve cover gasket was recently replaced, am I correct? Make sure to seal all corners, and sharp edged or tuns on a valve cover gasket, as those are the most likely to start leaking from. The cam seals are a common culprit for leaks.

It also looks as if you had some leaky injector 0-rings. It looks to be wet around the o-ring seals.

It also looks like you may have some sort of exhaust leak, due the build up on the head and the water pipe. Its very well likely your HG could be leaking a small bit.
 
92awddsm said:
Actually the discolor is just oil stains. Patina is usually accociated with copper turning green or bronze in color due to chemical reaction between the air and the actual material. It could technically be called patina because it is a superficial coating which causes a color change but generally in laymens terms, it is oil stains which regardless of the name, it is normal.

The leak is partially due to the vc gasket. The trails on the head clearly show that the vc gasket is leaking.


Being old, my interpretation was "natural color based upon age and usage"

Same as you would any "antique" ROFL

Besides, a rose by any other name. Is still a rose. :sneaky:

Good Luck
 
Thank you for all your replies. As for the the VC gasket I am not sure, if it was it was probably done by one of the 8 previous owners (yes i did a carfax about 8 owners). So far the diagnosises are: oil return line, cam seals, crankshaft seal, o rings, HG, VCG, and check for exaust leak.

So would it be in my best interest to take my head in to get rebuilt? As well as buying an upper engine gasket kit (I am looking at the topline one that SBR sells)?
 
TurboFever said:
Thank you for all your replies. As for the the VC gasket I am not sure, if it was it was probably done by one of the 8 previous owners (yes i did a carfax about 8 owners). So would it be in my best interest to bring my head in to get rebuilt?
Well what did you take the head off for? HG change?
 
The oil leak is from the valve cover gasket. Usually is just dry rotted & cracked or split from being overtightened or not tightened enough.

The discoloration is from the engine oil. Most DSM's when they were purchased
(especially 1G's) were given regular mineral oil. Most mineral oil when it reaches 200-210F starts to break down causing the varnish you see on the inside of the valve cover. Turbo cars generate tons of heat and an air-to-air oil cooler is a good choice to try and keep the oil temps between 180-200F. You'll need an oil temp meter to make sure everything is working correctly. I didn't look to see what year your car was, but the 90 DSM Turbos had an external air-to-air oil cooler and the oil filter housing is great because of the built in thermostat. It will not allow the oil to circulate until it gets to 180F.

Most DSM's as well as other cars now use synthetic oil because of its superior stability and lubrication properties. Now not all synthetics are the same...Valvoline Syn and Mobil One Syn are very good synthetic oils to use for daily drivers. Do not use synthetic blends! In 1993 Valvoline tested out a little better than Mobil One, but for daily driving it really doesn't matter. For those DSM owners who require only the best for their baby, use AMSOIL. They have a great turbo formula 10w-30 that I run in my DSM, and in the summer my oil temps are 20deg cooler on average. I wouldn't recommend running it in the winter since the time I have my car wouldn't get up to full temp very easily. Other good oil companies are Redline, Torco, Royal Purple, & Lucas.

If the head is off, at least get a refresh. Normally includes a full cleaning, valve job, inspection for problems and reassembly. I would recommend some porting. If you need a good place just PM me and I'll give some recommendations. :dsm:
 
Upon inspection of my exhaust manifold I see that it is cracked. What are the negative effects of running a car w/ a cracked exhaust manifold? Also, can it be welded closed?
 
TurboFever said:
Upon inspection of my exhaust manifold I see that it is cracked. What are the negative effects of running a car w/ a cracked exhaust manifold? Also, can it be welded closed?


Disadvantages....exhaust leak will cause noise and if not tended to will get worse, the crack will cause loss of spool up, and yes it can be welded but no matter what it will probably open back up or crack in another location. Brazing is usually used to to fill the cracks. :dsm:
 
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