The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

What turbo/manifold should I buy? 450 whp

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Wait....I just remembered about my major exhaust leak from around my warped flange on the exhaust manifold. Ive had it resurfaced with no luck. I dont see 25 psi till 5k. So much to buy with so little money.

That leak will throw off your wideband.
 
Buy an exhaust manifold first. And then see how you like your setup. Cams change the whole "spirit" of your engine. I would not upgrade to 280s without an intake manifold upgrade shortly thereafter.
 
First off you don't richen the a/f up to get better boost you lean it to get higher egt's which will cause faster spool time. Second 280 cams will make you spool signifcantly slower but help you up top. I think your setup would be a lot better off with fp2x cams. I don't see why you would need meth you don't have any problems with knock. I would lower boost to lke 23-25 psi see how high you can go with timing before you start seeing boost then determine if your happy or not. The s362 is a beast turbo and would make more than enough power but with your stock block I think your at a very safe place right now power wise. Stock blocks can live with 500whp as long as the tune is good and is void of knock or high egt's but I think 450 is a better power level as it leave room for error more than 500whp does without sacraficing too much.
 
Meth injection is cheap. I would buy that before cams. You'll be able to maximize your setup on pump with the meth before buying cams. The 280's are going to get held back by the stock intake manifold, as was implied by dsm-onster. He is also correct in suggesting you do the exhaust manifold first. After fixing the leak and working on the tune a little more you'll see an improvement.
 
I do have a knock problem Slippi. I know why its knocking and i know how to make it go away, but that defeats the purpose of me buying this big turbo. If i wanted 350 whp on pump i would have stuck with my evo 3. I havent got back on the dyno and im getting a little frustrated. Im going to try a colder plug tomorrow and see what happens. I might just have to live with lower boost and horse power on pump gas for now because i hate seeing that check engine light flash in 4th gear. Ill post my results when i get them. My 4 inch intake is really causing me problems though. Has anyone else ran a turbo with a 4 inch inlet with a 4 inch intake and a 2g maf? I dont feel like typing the whole story right now but in short the air flow keeps rising as the rpm decreases making the car get rich as hell on decel.
 
I do have a knock problem Slippi. I know why its knocking and i know how to make it go away, but that defeats the purpose of me buying this big turbo. If i wanted 350 whp on pump i would have stuck with my evo 3. I havent got back on the dyno and im getting a little frustrated. Im going to try a colder plug tomorrow and see what happens. I might just have to live with lower boost and horse power on pump gas for now because i hate seeing that check engine light flash in 4th gear. Ill post my results when i get them. My 4 inch intake is really causing me problems though. Has anyone else ran a turbo with a 4 inch inlet with a 4 inch intake and a 2g maf? I dont feel like typing the whole story right now but in short the air flow keeps rising as the rpm decreases making the car get rich as hell on decel.

I ran a GT14 with 4" intake with FP 4" intake on my tsi and I never had problems like that. Your tuning with the link right? I don't see any problems with your results. You made 400whp on 27psi on pump gas and no timing. With race gas gas and about 30psi and good timing you could see 500whp and that's baout average guy tuning results for a turbo like yours. Lean it up down low and you should hit full boost more like 4700 and that should make for a fun everyday tune. Don't try and get too crazy with the stock block enjoy your nice setup don't blow it up getting greedy.
 
2g maf right slippi? I really need some advice from you then. I dont know what else my problem could be. No boost leaks and everything (base timing-global-dead times) is how it should be and been gone over by several other people that know a lot more then I do about dsm link and dsms in general and they cant find anything wrong. I read about other people having the problem but obviously you didnt run in to it. Is a gt-14 a ball bearing turbo? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
2g maf right slippi? I really need some advice from you then. I dont know what else my problem could be. No boost leaks and everything (base timing-global-dead times) is how it should be and been gone over by several other people that know a lot more then I do about dsm link and dsms in general and they cant find anything wrong. I read about other people having the problem but obviously you didnt run in to it. Is a gt-14 a ball bearing turbo? Any advice would be appreciated.

A Gt14 is a duall BB turbo. I don't think it's as big as your turbo but it's a 65lb/min turbo in a bolt on mitsu housing with pro shroud 4" in 2" out cover similar but not exctly like the T04S cover. Are youventing your bov because that's what it sounds like to me.


edit: Nvm by looking at your pics looks like you have a recirculation tube. I would check that for leaks though.
 
Damn man im stuck. I dont know where to go from here. No leaks any where. I dont want to do a gm maf either. Any other suggestions or ideas on why the airflow would continue to go up as the rpm goes down???? Car is rich as hell under load in 5th gear on the freeway also. Like 10.0ish. Not sure why.
 
Are you having issues with your 2maf and your 4" intake? Does it not bolt on?
 
Damn man im stuck. I dont know where to go from here. No leaks any where. I dont want to do a gm maf either. Any other suggestions or ideas on why the airflow would continue to go up as the rpm goes down???? Car is rich as hell under load in 5th gear on the freeway also. Like 10.0ish. Not sure why.

No it bolts up fine. By the way i DO NOT have an afpr on my car. Could this be causing any of my problems?


Oh yeah you NEED a after market afpr. The stock afpr can't handle a 255.
No matter how you tune..... it won't matter, because the 255 will over power the stock afpr, and you'll go rich.

I think we just found your next upgrade
 
id kill for a 35r my friend ran 10.3 @133 on 26psi and the vac line blew off in 4th so the bov went right open and the car broke up
 
Yea but the car ran fine with the evo 3 and 650s. When i first got the car together i thought that was the problem so i switched back to the 650s and had all of the exact same problems as with the 950s. The car did idle better but still no difference problem wise. Car still wanted to die just ilke it did with the 950s. Global and dead times were changed accordingly. I dont want to spend the 200 bucks and be in the exact same boat and id bet my left nut that is exactly what is going to happen. There is one on craigslist so maybe i should pick it up.
 
Running fine before or not, with a walbro 255 you're overrunning your stock fpr. My stock FPR could not hold the pressure below 55psi !!! Even with the fuel pump not rewired. It will explain idle and part throttle richness, though being able to run 10:1 under higher loads.

Do you have a log of the airflow increasing as rpms fall off?
 
Uh get an AFPR... After which you will more than likely have to re-tune since you will then actually be running not only a controlled amount of fuel pressure but the correct. Should help with the idle and what not as well.
 
Damn man im stuck. I dont know where to go from here. No leaks any where. I dont want to do a gm maf either. Any other suggestions or ideas on why the airflow would continue to go up as the rpm goes down???? Car is rich as hell under load in 5th gear on the freeway also. Like 10.0ish. Not sure why.

That's when your pump is going full steam and tech it's not your fpr it's the return on it. Your return is not big enough to route enough fuel back to the tank so it creates unstable fuel pressure and you get unwanted inector drip and like everyone says it's hard to tune something that isn't consistant. As long as you have the couplers on tight your 4" intake will not cause any of the problems your seeing 2g maf or not. How your running 27psi on a 6psi spring is beyond me but I would def look into that too. Tuning a car that gets to a certain psi by creeping is bad too because whatever is causing that creep is DEF not good and coudl get worse and then you creep to 30 psi or more and bye bye stock engine
 
Don't spend any more $$$ on dynos or tunes until you get a afpr. It's a waste of $$$.
You're trying to use a mis-match tune, as a band-aid for an incomplete set-up ...It's not going to work. After you get a afpr installed, You'll have to re-tune everything.

These are the best "kit" deals that I've found. (I have the same super rich problem with my stock EVO1 afpr. and 255 pump)

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - DSM Specials

Blank

Theres also a few in the classifieds, but you'll need a install kit to make it easy. Both places above sell a install kit separately.
 
I just reread this and want to put this at the beginning of the post. The car runs very lean (17.7-lean) at an idle which doesnt make sense to me. I dont have any of the logs because i use my friends computer. I will try to get some up. I already fixed the wastegate with another spring. I doubled them up. No more boost creep. I have the boost down to 25 psi and it feels slower then it did with the evo 3. (Rich and could probably take a little more timing) I dont pay for tuning or labor or anything so its not like Im wasting anything but my time. Here is the thing though. Ive read everything about the 255 and the stock regulator and I know its no good but im broke right now and trying to live with what i got. The car never did any of this before with the 255, evo 3, and 650s. Not one problem. Even when i switch the 650s back it the car still has all of the same problems. Im going to look in to what I can find as far as a regulator goes and will post back when i get one on. If i know my car an afpr will fix the bad idle and WILL NOT fix the airflow (main problem) that Im having. Hopefully Im wrong......Thank for the help
 
Hey Layzie
AFR's are probably all over the place because your trying to create a crazy tune to fix a separate problem. It's hard to make good sense outta something thats not working right in the 1st place.

Right now your trying to learn tuning, with a system that's not complete. Thats a hard way to learn. Things will make alot more sense when it's all complete.

I totally understand about not having fund$ for the next mod..... Thats the life of a DSM'er:D
The best thing you can do for now (without any $$$) is to turn you boost down. I think you'll get a more consistent tune that way. The higher boost you go, the more fuel the ECU is going to add, (making it super rich) so just keep boost down for now. (thats what I gotta do for my EVO until I get a afpr)

Your stock afpr probably just had enough... it might have been working before, but now it's a no go. The only alternative that I know (while using a stock afpr) is to get a smaller fuel pump. I hear the Walbro 190 won't over power the stock afpr like the 255 does.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top