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What turbo/manifold should I buy? 450 whp

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Yeah but you havce a turbo tha is producing a lot more air flow with all that boost. So your ecu is trying to send a lot more fuel than it was with yoru little 16g. SO your pump is working harder than it did before thus why you have a problem now and didn't before. Put your 16g back on and I bet it goes back to the way it was. Like they sai dlower boost save up for the afpr and then try again:thumb:
 
Hey layzie, don't be lazy on modding your car. Haha I just had to do it. You don't know any other dsm'r around your area to see if they would let you borrow their afpr?
 
Some people modify the stock regulator to lower the pressure with a 255. Some people with 1g's (should work with 2g) use a n/t 1g fpr to lower the pressure. If it is a fuel pressure problem it could also be the siphon tube in the tank (1g's don't have to worry about this).


I heard about modding the stock fpr from coltboostin. He refers to it as porting.
 
I just looked up "Coltboostin" and "porting" and came up with nothing. No one has been informed of a fix for stock FPR overrun. The 47psi n/t fuel pressure regulator does still overrun, based on my personal experience. Which makes sense because with the stock fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure is 55+ at idle.

Lazie, you keep saying that your idle is lean. And you've already confessed there's a preturbo exhaust leak. No wideband is accurate with a leak before it. And would read tremendously lean at idle though that is not the case. In fact, if it reads as rich as 17:1 at idle with a decent leak before it, I'd venture to say that the engine is infact running extremely rich at idle.

What do your fuel trims look like? What is your %IDC? I don't know about anyone else. But I can't help you without a log. An AFPR is under $200 shipped and you've already put nearly 15 times that amount into your setup. We really can't help you too much if you don't do it the right way.
 
Yea my friend has one that i think im going to use. See how many of my problems it fixes. At wot the car runs good. My big problem is that air flow rises as rpms drop when the car returns to idle. I dont even mind the rough idle due to fuel pressure its just the air flow thing that is killing me and that needs to be fixed. On the dyno the runs are clean and everything is good. I know i need an afpr but its not going to be the key to all my problems. NEW TURBO TUNER CALL ANDRE. He wants to see how your doing. Hopefully i can get an fpr on tomorrow.
 
Very true dsm-onster i do have a leak around my wastegate and this might be my problem at idle. I like how youve been in this thread from the start. Then again I always go back to the same saying. It didnt do it before the new turbo. I know that doesnt apply to 90% of my problems but the leak hasnt got any worse so i dont know. It does need to be fixed, but that will have to wait. I want to see what the afpr is going to do for me. Any one else with a 2g ecu and 2g mas run a 4inch intake with a 4 inch inlet trouble free before?
 
dsm-onster said:
I just looked up "Coltboostin" and "porting" and came up with nothing. No one has been informed of a fix for stock FPR overrun. The 47psi n/t fuel pressure regulator does still overrun, based on my personal experience. Which makes sense because with the stock fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure is 55+ at idle.

If you have access to the link forums this is the thread where he metions it. DSMLink User Group Forums

He says "We Cleveland boys have used to "porting" trick for years to combat "loading up" on the low end"

He doesn't say specifically what they do though.

There are quite a few people that have said the n/t fpr fixed their problem. Thats the only reason I mentioned it.


dsm-onster said:
And would read tremendously lean at idle though that is not the case. In fact, if it reads as rich as 17:1 at idle with a decent leak before it, I'd venture to say that the engine is infact running extremely rich at idle.

You think it would read leaner than 17:1? How lean do you think it would read or do they normally read with a pre-wb exhaust leak?

dsm-onster said:
What do your fuel trims look like? What is your %IDC? I don't know about anyone else. But I can't help you without a log. An AFPR is under $200 shipped and you've already put nearly 15 times that amount into your setup. We really can't help you too much if you don't do it the right way.

I agree. Post a log and I will also take a look at it.
 
With a leaky o2housing gasket, I've read 20.XX:1 with my lm-1.

This AFPR not needed thing in the dsmlink post you mentioned is bothering me very much. I know that recently that it was discovered that the 2g siphoning system can be linked to the cause of the 2g regulator to overrun. They state that the 1g fuel system doesn't have that problem. But I can go out there right now and install my orginal 1g FPR and the pressure skyrockets to 55psi. Then I could spend another 20 minutes and swap in the oem fuel pump and the problem goes away. Why am I always left out?
 
With a leaky o2housing gasket, I've read 20.XX:1 with my lm-1.

This AFPR not needed thing in the dsmlink post you mentioned is bothering me very much. I know that recently that it was discovered that the 2g siphoning system can be linked to the cause of the 2g regulator to overrun. They state that the 1g fuel system doesn't have that problem. But I can go out there right now and install my orginal 1g FPR and the pressure skyrockets to 55psi. Then I could spend another 20 minutes and swap in the oem fuel pump and the problem goes away. Why am I always left out?

I'm not sure about the FPR ordeal, but the siphon thing, it is only 2g awd's to clarify for people. Since they used a saddle fuel tank to go over the driveshaft, they use a siphon that draws fuel out of the drivers side by using the returning fuel. The hole in the siphon is small, and you can pull it out and drill it and then you will be able to lower your base fuel pressure. I have personally done this, I drilled it out to 1/8'', which is about the max you want to go, in order to keep properly pulling fuel out of the other side of the tank. Before the "porting" I couldn't run lower than 48psi base, now i can run as low as 32psi base fuel pressure.

Sorry to get off topic, just thought I'd throw that in there since it was mentioned. Continue...:thumb:
 
How do you know your air flow is rising when your decellerating? You have a huge exhaust leak and yoru fuel pressure is unstable. You have variables out the yin yang nothing you have monitoring wise really at this point is accurate. DOn't worry about what the car is telling you right now fix the leak and get the afpr from your friend like you said then check and see what's up. The stock N/T fpr does not get overrun at least not on a NT car just to clarrify.
 
Yes, the n/t FPR can get overrun. Mitsu didn't need to make the FPR internal porting larger to raise the fuel pressure for the n/t. My n/t FPR overran along with my a/t FPR and m/t FPR.

I'm not sure about the FPR ordeal, but the siphon thing, it is only 2g awd's to clarify for people. Since they used a saddle fuel tank to go over the driveshaft, they use a siphon that draws fuel out of the drivers side by using the returning fuel. The hole in the siphon is small, and you can pull it out and drill it and then you will be able to lower your base fuel pressure. I have personally done this, I drilled it out to 1/8'', which is about the max you want to go, in order to keep properly pulling fuel out of the other side of the tank. Before the "porting" I couldn't run lower than 48psi base, now i can run as low as 32psi base fuel pressure.

Sorry to get off topic, just thought I'd throw that in there since it was mentioned. Continue...:thumb:

OH! so FPR overrun is a problem with 2g AWD cars even with an adjustable FPR. Porting out the siphon is a fix for those with 2g AWDs who have an AFPR and still can't control flow. . .
 
With a leaky o2housing gasket, I've read 20.XX:1 with my lm-1.

This AFPR not needed thing in the dsmlink post you mentioned is bothering me very much. I know that recently that it was discovered that the 2g siphoning system can be linked to the cause of the 2g regulator to overrun. They state that the 1g fuel system doesn't have that problem. But I can go out there right now and install my orginal 1g FPR and the pressure skyrockets to 55psi. Then I could spend another 20 minutes and swap in the oem fuel pump and the problem goes away. Why am I always left out?

Mine needed something to bring the fuel pressure down also when I put a 255 in it. I didn't even re-wire the pump when I put it in and it was overrunning. I just bought an aeromotive fpr because I did'nt want to get a part from the junkyard that might be bad or might not fix the problem. The only way I would leave the stock fpr on there is if I hooked up a fuel pressure tester and it read good.

Good to know about the wideband readinngs. I don't have any leaks but now I know it won't be slightly off like I thought it would.
 
OH! so FPR overrun is a problem with 2g AWD cars even with an adjustable FPR. Porting out the siphon is a fix for those with 2g AWDs who have an AFPR and still can't control flow. . .

It's a problem on a lot of them but not all. I would say it is a problem on all that are running more than a single 255 though. Andrew Kisner is the first person I heard about doing it.

Slippi84 said:
No with a afpr you have a new return.

The return isn't the problem. The siphon is in the tank. Let's say that you have a 2g awd with dual bosch pumps and a -10an return. You will still have the problem. Sure the return is big enough but the siphon isn't and has to be drilled out in order to flow enough fuel or it will build up pressure.
 
It's a problem on a lot of them but not all. I would say it is a problem on all that are running more than a single 255 though. Andrew Kisner is the first person I heard about doing it.

Yeah, I didn't have a problem running stock pressure, until i installed my inline pump. Andrew has done amazing things, and I've known him for years, but he wasn't the first, there have been a number of people doing it over on link forums for some time now, but it seems you have link as well...oh well, it's a good find, whoever came up with it! :D

dsm-onster, thats exactly right, even with an afpr, you can't control flow, because it is simply not getting rid of it fast enough. Even if you upgrade your return line, in a 2g awd anyway, you will still be restricted by the tiny hole in the siphon.
 
Ok. Just clarifying. So you all arn't saying that the 1g, 2g, or n/t FPR does not get overrun by a walbro 255. It still overruns a stock FPR. Just that if you upgrade to an AFPR on an AWD 2g you may still get uncontrollable pressure at low load, because of an issue not related to the AFPR at all.
 
"The answer to your question is....."



WTF.........Cheap knock off imitations???:confused:



Looks frightening :sosad:

dude I am pretty much the go to guy for BW turbos and questions on this board. ROFL

WTF Can you say BORG-WARNER DEALER!!! That is far from knock off and from from cheap too. Looks like a s256/8 with bad ass equal length manfiold.

Thank you sir. It's the kit we just made for an EVO. Same kit already made 472awhp at only 24psi on 93 octane pump. OMG
 
Ok. Just clarifying. So you all arn't saying that the 1g, 2g, or n/t FPR does not get overrun by a walbro 255. It still overruns a stock FPR. Just that if you upgrade to an AFPR on an AWD 2g you may still get uncontrollable pressure at low load, because of an issue not related to the AFPR at all.

Correct.
 
I dont know about modding a fpr. I personally wouldnt do it. I got the regulator and its going on tomorrow. CHECK THIS OUT. I F'ded up. Its too long of a story to type the whole thing but I was under my car and saw the elbow that was welded on to the compressor cover was rubbing on the motor mount. I fixed it. So on the way home i was smashing through 3rd and usually let off before i shift to 4th. Normally in 4th gear at 4500ish as boost comes on the car will knock EVERY TIME. I just did 4 or 5 4th gear pulls till redline and absolutely nothing. Or at least from what i could see on my dash. I have the light come on at 3 counts with dsm link. So this whole time we've been tuning and working with the car I might have been getting knock from the compressor cover hitting the mount. DOH! Hopefully that is the case and we can tune for more power.
 
dude I am pretty much the go to guy for BW turbos and questions on this board. ROFL



Thank you sir. It's the kit we just made for an EVO. Same kit already made 472awhp at only 24psi on 93 octane pump. OMG



I Guess I don't know my BW turbos huh:sosad:
It thought it looked like a knock-off because is so chunky. But hey, If it works it works. 472 @ 24 seems pretty good ...I can't argue with that.
What kind of motor/head mods was on the car, and What RPM did it hit 24lbs at?
 
I Guess I don't know my BW turbos huh:sosad:
It thought it looked like a knock-off because is so chunky. But hey, If it works it works. 472 @ 24 seems pretty good ...I can't argue with that.
What kind of motor/head mods was on the car, and What RPM did it hit 24lbs at?

Bone stock evo motor with 272 cams and ARP head studs. That's it. :thumb: haven't seen the logs yet to see but peak torque was under 5k.
 
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