The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

What turbo can be changed out with the 16g

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSTurbo1

10+ Year Contributor
610
1
May 2, 2012
Pickens, SC, South_Carolina
Ok guys,

I have a small 16g and everyone is telling me to go bigger... so i'm going to do my research on getting a bigger turbo. My question is... is there anyway I can buy another turbo that can be switched directly out with my small 16g?
 
evo3 16G cause if you wanted to you could even put a 20G comprosser wheel and housing on it later on and have the spool up time of the evo3 16G but the air flow the 20g will give you thats just my suggestion
 
16gs from the evo III pack a punch and spool quickly. Just make sure it's an MHI and not a knock off turbo.

Although if you can afford/ support an mhi 20g turbo, I'd recommend it over the evo3. :D
Note: 20g's have down-firing compressor covers and will require an adjustment to your intercooler piping. But they do eliminate the J-pipe which is a common boost leak source.
 
Ok guys,

I have a small 16g and everyone is telling me to go bigger... so i'm going to do my research on getting a bigger turbo. My question is... is there anyway I can buy another turbo that can be switched directly out with my small 16g?
Is your inlet flange a DSM bolt-on style, or is it a T3 like the Hahn "Super" 16G's which are basically a Small 16G with a different cover?
 
if it's the hahn then the turbo's they've been mentioning above wont fit your car.

you need a turbo that's a t3 flange.
if you have the money, look into a garret gt30R.
it depends on what amount of boost you're looking to run, the HP you want to make, and what your fuel mods are.

and if you have a built motor or not.

if this is accurate:
Bolt-on Modifications:
Under drive crank pulley 450 injectors HAHN super 16g turbo Walbaro 255 fuel pump Megan racing muffler (2 1/2 inch exhaust from down pipe back) Coil over with shocks

Engine Management:
Megasquirt1 and extra VS 3.0 Msd coil pack Greddy shift knob Apex turbo timer air/ fuel gauge oil pressure gauge

Engine Internals:
Car has 8:8:1 compression Cometic head gasket ARP head studs JE pistons Eagle rods new crank bored over 0.02

Drivetrain Modifications:
Greddy short shift

Suspension Modifications:
lowered 2 inches

then i would go for the gt30r, and some bigger injectors. MOAR BOOST LOL
or if you really got some balls, gt35r.
 
so can I get the same turbo that goes on a 4g63 or does it need to be a different kind.... i'm look at some evo 3 turbos on ebay right now.

my turbo has a t3 style flange and seems to be a good turbo, it says that its good from 5-30 psi. and up to 400hp, should I even take it off?
 
Your current turbo, can be machined to a evo3 16g, 20g, or a 68 hta. it would also be machined for an fp green wheel but it may require pressing a pipe in it. But you would probably be best testing the waters with the evo3 16g or 20g. You can do this by buying the compressor cover and wheel and having your center section machined. The last time i went to a machine shop they quoted me 150$ to machined a 16g cover to 20g. But its only ~20$ to have a center section machined from a local machine shop.
 
a turbo that fits on a 4g63 will NOT fit on your 420a. the flange is different.
the 4g uses a MHI flange, your turbo has a t3 flange.

i said that before, and these other people obviously aren't paying attention that you have a t3 turbo not a MHI turbo.
 
gt30 Rs are a thing of the past.. If your going to spend that kind of money, get a billet Duall Bb turbo. PTE and turbonetectis have great ones. pricey, but they are more advanced then the older ones mentioned in other posts.. the billet wheel will give you the quicker spool of a small turbo and the powah of a larger one..

IMO, post your budget and goal.. that wll help narrow you down what you should get . More often then not, a bigger turbo wont help you. that 16G has plenty of head room in it. You could turn up the boost and see where you land. maybe spend money in places like an LSD.. I see that you have little to nothing to help you use the power.. if focus on that.. IE clutch, motor mounts, LSD... Unless you want a dyno number only, then carry on.

If your tunnign a hahn manifold, then yes, your T3 and most of the turbos mentioned here will not work..another shining example of gst/X guys putting their nose where they dont know.. Just saying.
 
first goals(horsepower). Go to big lots of lag. Then how much are u willing to spend? Is it a 2.0 or did u bore over? I would go gt30 or bw200 series. An most likely bigger injectors. how much boost are you running now? have you maxed out your setup?
 
Last edited:
He is at 5 psi.. thats why i said go with other mods... his setup still has penty of life. really, that 16G you have hasnt even begun to play in a sweet spot12-17 psi..
 
Well I just ordered a boost controller so we will see... from my research the super 16should put out more than my motor can handle... 20+ psi. Oh and I already have short shift kit, stage III clutch, and solid motor mounts for power delivery.
 
do your research.. those mods are pretty much nothing.. The clutch and motor mounts are the only thing of value.. what brand of clutch to.. ACT and CM suck for our application.. not all "performace" clutches are equal.. Do REAL mods to get the power down, like an LSD.. and or switching to a 3.55 trans. I would typically say something about axles, but stock are fine, in the sence that if they break, you can get replacements cheap, that come with a lifetime warrnty,, so your only out labor..

Whats your suspension, that will come to matter when you laucnh, youll want some stiff rears to keep from loosing all the power in the shifting of weight. allso, do the front bolt mod for the trans mission mount..
 
Using a manual boost controler? Boost leak, exhaust leak will all cause spool issues.
 
Even though you have a 420a I run a small 16g in my gs-t. Love the power band my advice would be to stick with what you got and you could always sell it...I maxxed out my injectors [yellow tops] which are 510s? Correct me if im wrong but anyway I still have room to grow and wouldn't spend the money to upgrade the wheel unless mine toke a dump, but like I said spools very fast and the power band is great and fun to drive and keeps 2nd gear still somewhat worth hitting it in :dsm: :thumb:
 
its a hahn 16g, so a evo would have quicker spool time
Incorrect. A Hahn Super 16G uses a Small 16G cartridge- if you were to swap an Evo III 16G in it's place using the same turbine housing, you would pick up 400-500rpms of additional lag.

If you're currently at 5psi, you'll never be able to run over 20psi using the same wastegate actuator. The spring tension is far too weak.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top