What the hell came oht of my valves

[gsxboostinnj]

Ok so today i painted my valve cover blue and when i took it offf something stuck out where the vlves whhere. Before this i coulda swore i hD a valve tap tgen affter i took these out it seems to have went away im trying to upload picz from my phone so bare with me

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[bigbird94]

It may seem okay to you but I highly reccomend taking a picture and posting it up here.

 

[BogusSVO]

I counted 14 of 16 HLAs from the first pic, could not see the last 2 due to glare on the pic. I wonder if the PO did a 3g lifter swap and left one floating around in there??

 

[jakeb2011]

Ok man you seem a little new at this but that's okay, everyone has to learn sometime and your in the right place. You should have 16 rockers and 16 lifters underneath those rocker. In the picture below in the red circles is your rocker with that roller thing. Right beneath it in that yellow circles is your lifters. They're a little hard to see.

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If a rocker or lifter fell out i suggest not driving and ordering a new one and look up a thread for lift prep/install. If you CANNOT find one missing it means the previous owner replaced your lifters and left one inside and got pinched and broke apart. I would inspect for other floating parts and if you cant find anything just be aware of any weird noises of something possibly floating around. Any questions?

 

[travisgoldkuhl]

i could see all 16 in your pic, must have had one replaced and they forgot to take it all the way out of the head

 

[gsxboostinnj]

i could see all 16 in your pic, must have had one replaced and they forgot to take it all the way out of the head

Thats thebonly thing that makes sense right now

 

[2slow4now]

I wonder were the internal lifter pieces like the spring and the crimped on metal ring that holds the lifter together went? Get a bright flash light and look all over in there. I would consider dropping the oil pan because when something breaks like that there will be metal chunkies going all over.
OP you just registered here? Did you just get the car recently? Did the previous owner tell you about any motor or head work they had done?

 

[gsxboostinnj]

No work was done its stock. I was the first person to take the valve cover off suposedly

 

[BogusSVO]

No work was done its stock. I was the first person to take the valve cover off suposedly

Somehow I doubt that. Unless you are the one that painted the VC blue.

If you have all 16 followers and all 16 HLAs in place. Someone else was in there before you.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Being that its a 17 year old car, I highly doubt you're the first to remove the valve cover. Someone asked earlier if there's a magnetic oil pan drain plug, that should be a no. I know I've never heard of that, unless its after market. As stated, look through your oil pan. The head is the last section to receive oil, which then flows straight to the oil pan. I'd check your oil drain galleries too, just in case something got stuck, but still allows drainage.

 

[gsxboostinnj]

Somehow I doubt that. Unless you are the one that painted the VC blue.

If you have all 16 followers and all 16 HLAs in place. Someone else was in there before you.

I am the one who painted it.
And the previous owner told me that he was gonna put 3g lifters in butt never got around to it. And when i opened it up i had to pry it open with a flat head.

Being that its a 17 year old car, I highly doubt you're the first to remove the valve cover. Someone asked earlier if there's a magnetic oil pan drain plug, that should be a no. I know I've never heard of that, unless its after market. As stated, look through your oil pan. The head is the last section to receive oil, which then flows straight to the oil pan. I'd check your oil drain galleries too, just in case something got stuck, but still allows drainage.

So i have to drain the oil first? Wheres the oil pan at. Im new to this but learning quick

 

[DSM1G90]

Wheres the oil pan at.

Really! ...you can take a valve cover off and paint it ......

 

[Jonny J]

Oh goodness, wheres the oil pan... Sigh. But anyways. Jack your car up and look underneath it and assuming you have some mechanical knowledge you'll be able to see the oil pan. it'll have a drain plug in the back which will need to be removed using a ??mm socket or wrench, drain the oil then take off the bolts that hold on your oil pan (located on the bottom of the pan) and just pop it off and then you should be able to see any metal/chunks sitting there.
Ive personally never dropped an oil pan in our cars so if anyone wants to correct this then they may, I was just going off of my guessing/knowledge of cars.

 

[DSM1G90]

10mm bolts holds the pan in place to the block.

And when you put the pan back on, you put all the bolts back in place, but not tight. Then do the "star method" to tighten them and in steps-don't get crazy wanting to tighten them down on the first crank, or you'll get a pinch that will leak bad-even with using RTV sealant.

Hate to tell you this, OP ... better let someone that knows car mechanics do work on your vehicle.

Nice wanting to learn, but for your sake, best let the experienced handle your issue.

 

[gsxboostinnj]

Oh i didnt know that was the oil pan ! I do oil changes ever 2k miles. I know im beginner and everything but the basic stuff id like to do myself i know when a job is to big for me to do.

But thank you everyone for your support and il keep u guys updated probly tomarrow il drop the pan an put some pics up.

 

[hazmat6135]

When you take the oil pan off pay attention to which bolt goes under the timing belt!!!!!! this is very important. It has to go back in the same place because it is shorter then the rest of them. If you put a diff one in that spot it will stick out the other side and chew up your timing belt. Be very careful to avoid this!!!!!

 

[casperfast]

So i have to drain the oil first? Wheres the oil pan at. learning quick

wow. yes everyone has to start somewhere, but if you cant answer this question... you might want to practice on something not as complex as a dsm. that busted lifter is BAD NEWS it just being in there could have done major damage to your cams, lifters, valves, springs etc. not to mention if/when the "extra" missing peices make it into your oil supply you can be looking at catastrophic engine failure, premature wear one any and all beaing surfaces, cylinders. i reccomend a site for this "basic" engine knowlege before you continue. "howstuffworks.com" best of luck to you. also dont forget, the only stupid question is one not asked

 

[2slow4now]

I was sitting here reading this and thought oh my god I sure hope he knows to put jack stands under the car so he doesn't end up smashed like a pancake. I probably wouldn't even trust a set of ramps and the ebrake to roll around under your car.

Not slamming on you OP but please find someone local that works on cars to buddy up with to learn some of the basics. I just wouldn't want to hear about something awful happening. One of my friends dads (a life long car guy) got lazy and decided to just use his jack to hold the car up while messing around and it failed. His nephew walked into the garage to find him under the car. The side he was under he had removed the wheel and some of the suspension so the car pretty much went all the way to the ground. Really bad scene.

 

[gprix1]

Guys, he has a GSX. Removing the oil pain will be a pretty big job for a total novice. You have to remove the downpipe, drop the tranfer case, trans dust shield, take the suspension knuckle apart to remove the drivers side axle and intermidiate shaft. All just to get to the oil pain bolts. He'll lose a good amount of trans' and probably tranfer case fluid so that will need topping off (more likely replacement since your there).. for a novice, it's definately a big job.
Now I know this goes against what anyone here would say but honestly, there is no way those pieces are going to get through the oil pickup screen and oil filter. Unless you have someone to help you that is competent I would just suggest getting one of these magentic drain plugs: Power Slut Racing Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Evolution EVO 10 x IX VIII VII | eBay
This is the one I use and it has a crazy strong magnet. If little parts are sliding around the bottom of your pan they WILL stick to this. It even fights you putting the damn thing on (keeps sticking to the pan).. .
Anyway, I definately don't advacate laziness and personally it might bother me enought to pull the pan even though I know it would most likely be fine but for You, this is what I'm suggesting based on your experience level.

 

[spyderdrifter]

So i have to drain the oil first? Wheres the oil pan at. Im new to this but learning quick

Ha ha ha ha ha.... I'm sorry to laugh at your expense dude, but after my week being so crappy so far, this was just too funny. I'm sure you've received enough ridicule for it so I won't add to it. We all have been there so don't feel bad either. You can't learn if you don't ask, so By now I imagine you know where your oil pan is, any updates?

 

[Jon91TSi]

Guys, he has a GSX. Removing the oil pain will be a pretty big job for a total novice. You have to remove the downpipe, drop the tranfer case, trans dust shield, take the suspension knuckle apart to remove the drivers side axle and intermidiate shaft. All just to get to the oil pain bolts. He'll lose a good amount of trans' and probably tranfer case fluid so that will need topping off (more likely replacement since your there).. for a novice, it's definately a big job.
Now I know this goes against what anyone here would say but honestly, there is no way those pieces are going to get through the oil pickup screen and oil filter. Unless you have someone to help you that is competent I would just suggest getting one of these magentic drain plugs: Power Slut Racing Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Evolution EVO 10 x IX VIII VII | eBay
This is the one I use and it has a crazy strong magnet. If little parts are sliding around the bottom of your pan they WILL stick to this. It even fights you putting the damn thing on (keeps sticking to the pan).. .
Anyway, I definately don't advacate laziness and personally it might bother me enought to pull the pan even though I know it would most likely be fine but for You, this is what I'm suggesting based on your experience level.

Not all metals in these engines are ferrous. The non-ferrous metals can cause just as much damage and you would be ignorant to the fact that they are floating around in your bottom end because they aren't stuck to the magnet. OP, please take the car to a shop and have it done right. I understand 100% that you want to learn and try, but this isn't the time or place. Not trying to be rude, just being real.

 

[gprix1]

Not all metals in these engines are ferrous. The non-ferrous metals can cause just as much damage and you would be ignorant to the fact that they are floating around in your bottom end because they aren't stuck to the magnet. OP, please take the car to a shop and have it done right. I understand 100% that you want to learn and try, but this isn't the time or place. Not trying to be rude, just being real.

You are 100% correct about non-ferrous metals and this was somthing I considered before posting. However a lifter is not made with any non-ferrous metals and there was no other damage observed so I stand by my suggestion. I will also add that the OP should be running a good oil filter such as a WIX, Mobil1, K&N and NOT using a FRAM, Microgaurd or other cheap filter that easily blow the bypass open. You will want a filter that actually filters your oil and protects from contaminants.

 

[Jon91TSi]

You are 100% correct about non-ferrous metals and this was somthing I considered before posting. However a lifter is not made with any non-ferrous metals and there was no other damage observed so I stand by my suggestion. I will also add that the OP should be running a good oil filter such as a WIX, Mobil1, K&N and NOT using a FRAM, Microgaurd or other cheap filter that easily blow the bypass open. You will want a filter that actually filters your oil and protects from contaminants.

My comment about the ferrous/non-ferrous metals was mainly in response to DSM1G90's comment about something being wrong with the lifter bore. Bottom line is, if you suspect something MAY be in the oil pan and doesn't belong there, remove the oil pan. Don't rely on a magnet, or an oil filter to keep it from being pulled up into the oil pump and causing damage or circulating throughout the engine causing damage.

I'm in a similar situation right now with a customer's car. His balance shaft belt snapped, causing his timing on the intake cam to skip and bent all the valves. In the process the cam lobes also smashed all the rollers on the rocker arms to pieces. The rollers are filled with small roller bearings, these roller bearings were littered all over inside the head. I told him the oil pan absolutely had to be removed to get any debris out. He agreed 100%. Now granted this is your car and if you feel comfortable not pulling the pan and possibly taking the hit later down the road fine, thats your decision and probably not the right one. This is a customer's car, and the job has to be done right. I don't want a call 3 months down the road, or a year down the road saying hey buddy, something is wrong with my car and it ends up being because I took a shortcut and not doing what was right in the first place, and then it becoming my problem on my dime.

 

[DSM1G90]

True, that busted up alumium floating around isn't too nice with cylinder walls and crank bearings .. and no magnet is gonna capture that let alone pieces that are too big to go into oil galleys to the filter....

but, as the OP's pict shows that the head doesn't look damaged, but still .... get that pan off to be certain. Amazing on how junk can end up in the bottom of a pan that we don't know about.

 

[gprix1]

Well like I said, if it was me, I would pull the pan and just drive my stock Talon in the meantime.
Also, if I was the mechanic working on a customers car, I would for sure pull the pan. Truth be told though, these aren't fine particles, their little chunks. If he really had no money or resources to fix it properly and he has to drive it, he most likely would be just fine if the filter (and magnet) are doing their job. I'm not sayin' I like the idea, but I think we can agree that if the filter system works as designed, there's no reason it shouldn't protect the motor.