What parts are needed for holset

[stevetalon]

So i have a holset hx35 with the t3 12cm^2 housing.
I am going to buy the ebay dnp knockoff manifold and an 38mm emusa wastegate.
I have been reading but cant figure out what i need for the oil feed and return line. I dont have the part that bolts up to turbo for the return line.
Can anyone tell me what lines and fitting i need to buy?

 

[LiquidX]

There are multiple pages for the Holset. I wouldn't use an ebay manifold unless you want it to crack and you MAY be ok with the wastegate but would strongly urge you to get a name brand wastegate.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/353498-holset-turbos-part-7-a.html

Everything is listed within these pages

 

[stevetalon]

Ok so i still have m balance shafts in and i want to know if i can run a -4 an line to the turbo and a -10 an return line? Would this be ok?

 

[wazzelby]

Every car is different as far as oil pressure goes. I run a -4 feed from the OFH and a -12an return line and haven't had any problems. I see about 80psi of oil pressure at startup and once it's warm about 12psi. On average I see about 90-100 PSI at WOT.
I'm using the Holset big H1C with external wastegate on a ERL manifold.

 

[stevetalon]

So should i buy an oil pressure gauge and hook it up to the head and then the ofh to see what pressure my car has at the two locations? I really don't want my holset to fry because of two less or two much pressure, so to be safe should i have a restrictor if i run the feed line from the ofh.

 

[LiquidX]

So should i buy an oil pressure gauge and hook it up to the head and then the ofh to see what pressure my car has at the two locations? I really don't want my holset to fry because of two less or two much pressure, so to be safe should i have a restrictor if i run the feed line from the ofh.

I sent you the links because ALL of the stuff you just asked is already discussed and says exactly what you need to run. You have a lot of reading to do

If you get a restrictor and run from the OFH now you'll prob. kill it because you dont' know what your pressure is and what size restrictor to get. Do you alreayd have an oil pressure gauge and that's how you are getting the 90-100 psi you are talkinga bout? The Holset has a maximum of 80psi and minimum of 15ish at idle reqired.

Please read the links and everything else as well. Which Holset are you using and are you sure is a legit Holset. What hot side are you running and what exhaust manifold are you going to use that WONT break? What psi are you going to run?

 

[dsm-onster]

Typically an ebay manifold will prevent the hx35 to bolton with the stock housing. . . You will need cut and reweld the flange at more of an angle. The erl t3 manifold will let it clear though. But is more expensive than ebay + welding. . . But won't crack either.

 

[mindset]

There are multiple pages for the Holset. I wouldn't use an ebay manifold unless you want it to crack and you MAY be ok with the wastegate but would strongly urge you to get a name brand wastegate.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/353498-holset-turbos-part-7-a.html

Everything is listed within these pages

Posting links to multi-page threads is pointless.
The amount of answers and info in there is way too confusing and the amount of info being tossed around in there can lead to misinformation. I'm not being an ass it's just I hate how everytime I open up a Holset thread people post the links, but those links have a wide general form of info.

 

[talondave]

Agreed!!! If you can swing the money for a ERL mani, thats the route I would go!

 

[LiquidX]

Posting links to multi-page threads is pointless.
The amount of answers and info in there is way too confusing and the amount of info being tossed around in there can lead to misinformation. I'm not being an ass it's just I hate how everytime I open up a Holset thread people post the links, but those links have a wide general form of info.

The reason for those links are to keep multiple threads from being started that are all asking the same thing. All of the info is in there and if you feel there should be a single thread with ALL the information in it, go and start one. I'm not being an ass either with that response. I've gone and read through most of the information myself and learned a good bit from from it just by reading.

 

[dsm-onster]

The oil drain line fitting question is answered in the 1st link supplied. The drain line needs to be as large as or larger than spec.

You can't have someone hold your hand with this. Just get in there. Take the turbo to lowes, go to the brass fitting section, and get weird looks from the local red neck contractors as you find the right fitting for the feed. Tell them it's the snail for your tractor and they'll leave you alone. I pesonally bought a used feed line cummins pickup turbo oil feed line. They arn't long enough, but I took that in and found the right adapters and attached it to a piece of steel braided line that allows everything to be long enough to feed from the OFH. You MUST have a oil pressure gauge Teed off at the oil inlet. Your oil pressure MUST fall within the specs pointed out in those links provided. You will likely need a restrictor. And there's various solutions guys have tried. I use a 1/4 inch brass ball valve. I removed the lever control and use it only to adjust the pressure. I have 2 washers under the control lever nut to lock the valve at what ever partial open point needed to make the oil pressure whatever I want. Again others have done many different things that worked very well.

. . . Just take your time and use a little ingenuity. . . or pay over $1000 more

 

[mindset]

The reason for those links are to keep multiple threads from being started that are all asking the same thing. All of the info is in there and if you feel there should be a single thread with ALL the information in it, go and start one. I'm not being an ass either with that response. I've gone and read through most of the information myself and learned a good bit from from it just by reading.

Yes, yes I understand that but it's the amount of pages to read through. It's ridiculous . And I would if I had the time and I wouldn't want to start a thread because I couldn't trust myself giving out info of that importance.

 

[LiquidX]

Just take your time and read. It'll take a bit but you don't want to miss anything. Learn what you can first and then ask. Not trying to be an ass about it either.

 

[stevetalon]

Ok so i'm going to feed the turbo from the head with a -4an line and buy a -10an return line kit from extremepsi. Where can i find a 90 degree fitting that screws into the head and has the -4an? I really want to buy the ebay dnp knockoff manifold because i know the hx35 will clear everything with it. I know some welders, so if i got the welds welded over would it be fine?

 

[LiquidX]

Ok so i'm going to feed the turbo from the head with a -4an line and buy a -10an return line kit from extremepsi. Where can i find a 90 degree fitting that screws into the head and has the -4an? I really want to buy the ebay dnp knockoff manifold because i know the hx35 will clear everything with it. I know some welders, so if i got the welds welded over would it be fine?

Look through the vendors and see if they sell the fitting you are describing. Besure to check the oil pressure regardless if you have your balance shafts or not as you don't want to starve the turbo or over feed it which both will cause it do die.

If you plan on using a T3 manifold with the stock housing on the Holset, you'll have more lag problems. The housing is humungo and is also divided which needs a divided manifold with dual wastegates to function properly and reduce spool. That housing also weighs about 20lbs on it's own.

Your best bet is to get the BEP housing for which ever style manifold you will get, wether it's Mitsu. flange or T3 flanged. The mitsu flanged BEP housing can have an internal wastegate but I'm not too sure how much boost you can run before it blows open. Otherwise, you'll need an external wastegate for both setups. The Mitsu flanged one can either be off of the o2 housing of manifold mounted. The T3 manifold will need a custom VBand downpipe or a VBand o2 housing made. The stock Holset housing is roughly between 3"-4" for the exhaust outlet which is usually VBand as well.

The manifold will need to be braced on the underside and the flange may need to be cut and rewelded at a different angle. Ebay exhaust pipes are one thing, but I highly doubt Ebay manifolds are used of either Schedule 10 or Schedule 40 pipe which is what's needed for the intense heat and to be able to hold the weight. Some people have lucked out. If you want a durable manifold with tubular flow, look into the ERL manifold which is T3 flanged.

 

[dsm-onster]

The extremepsi kit is far from spec required to run a holset.

The t3 bep housing spools about the same as the original hx35 12cm^2 housing with an open t3 manifold (non divided). YOu'll still see full boost before an fp red. and flow more air too. The t3 housing isn't a good choice for the hx35 since you already get a t3 housing that flows the same as long as your round the divider. Both the bep t3 and the hx35 t3 housing have block clearance problems. except with an exhaust manifold like the ERL.

Dos this hx35 have 7blades or 8blades at the compressor inlet.

 

[stevetalon]

its the 7 blade.

 

[dsm-onster]

Definately stick with the stock hx35 turbine housing if you want to push that compressor. It flowd 60lb/min. As is, it is a 600hp turbo. The bep bolton housing will choke it a bit. If you're ok with spool speeds about like a gt30r then you'll be happy. Remember though you will need to hack any ebay manifold and angle the turbine flange to put the housing more away from the block because it will not clear. Or you can get the welded cast ERL manifold which is a VERY nic piece. Since you're saving money by not buying a turbine housing anyway.

You should also radius or round the divider in the housing.

Don't bother trying to get the internal gate to work. Only use external at this power level anyway to save yourself from boost control headaches. Besides the gate actuator is far too stiff and the hole and flapper is far too small for gasser applications.

 

[stevetalon]

Well just an update I ordered a bep bolt on housing and got some other parts for the holset. Heres some pics

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Nos .078 Jet for -4 an line

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Tial 44mm

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I still am concerned about the return line being to small if I buy a -10 an so I might just pick up another oil pan and get a -12 an bung welded to it. For the o2 housing I am thinking of picking up an ebay tubular o2 with the dump tube and modding it to work with the tial 44mm. I am also going to run speed density with jackal

 

[LiquidX]

Why the 44, do you plan on running lower than 20PSI?

 

[stevetalon]

Got the 44mm because I got a good deal on it and I do plan on running the 13 spring that is in it for now until I get the supporting mods to run above 20. So I'm thinking 1200cc injectors, 4 spider diff, and a southbend clutch.

 

[dsm-onster]

I've sinse been recommending just NOT feeding oil from the head. It just does't supply enough pressure for these holsets. It's right on the edge, which is why some have success and some have failures. Feed from the OFH and use a cheap gauge (fuep pressure gauge would be fine) Teed at the inlet. YOU MUST CHECK YOUR PRESSURE before running an aftermarket turbo. A turbo that will be pushed will need more oil flow/pressure than the minimum requirements. Feeding from the head provides marginal minumum requirements as is. And you mentioned running a restrictor on top of that.

 

[4g63turbo84]

can we get a part number for all the fittings that we would need to mount a holset......

 

[stevetalon]

I've sinse been recommending just NOT feeding oil from the head. It just does't supply enough pressure for these holsets. It's right on the edge, which is why some have success and some have failures. Feed from the OFH and use a cheap gauge (fuep pressure gauge would be fine) Teed at the inlet. YOU MUST CHECK YOUR PRESSURE before running an aftermarket turbo. A turbo that will be pushed will need more oil flow/pressure than the minimum requirements. Feeding from the head provides marginal minumum requirements as is. And you mentioned running a restrictor on top of that.

Oh yeah I didn't mention it but I'm going to feed from the oil filter housing with that 4 an line and restrictor.

 

[stevetalon]

So I got my bep housing

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I also got my ebay tubular o2 housing with the dump tube and both tial inlet/outlet flange+outlet clamp
Should have my -4an oil line with the adapter from extreme psi in a couple of days.
I've decided since I allready have a 2g oil drain I am going to make a drain to fit a 3/4 silicone hose.
All that is holding me back is a 7cm gasket, 2g maf, and I need to make a 4 inch intake pipe

Has anyone dented their water pipe with it still connected on the car?