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what oil should i use [Merged 2-7]

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dunndilly

20+ Year Contributor
117
0
Oct 30, 2002
As this compilation of threads illustrates,
IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER WHAT OIL YOU USE.​
It's the twenty-first century. Metallurgy and lubrication science have both taken such astounding leaps over the last fifty years that virtually all the once-true tales of oils and preferences are obsolete.
If you're seriously interested in what goes into, why, how and how much oil, check http://bobistheoilguy.com/



what oil should i use for a 90talon tsi awd during the winter?
 
Mobil 1 and AMS oil are arguably the best oils... High milage is generally a synthetic blend so it will break down faster than M1 or AMS but it won't break down as fast as standard oils. I've heard that if you go from standard oils to synthetic you will create leaks because it flows so much better, so, I weaned my car off it by using a synthetic blend for 3000 and then a fully synthetic... I really don't think it will leak though if you go from standard to synthetic.
 
You know, I've heard a billion thing's about switching from regular to synthetic. It's been a debate from day one of synthetic's release. I would like to believe the guy's from American Muscle Car and St Antony of Motor Trend when they state that synthetic will not in any way cause harm, leeks, or any other wierd occurence. I'm a die hard Mobil1 fan. Any oil that came in my WRX and also comes in the Z06, Porsche's, and Ferarri's is good enough for me.
 
Royal Purple?....Its been proven to ADD horsepower....I havn't had to change oil in a loooong time so... I'll probably start with Mobil 1 and then move to RP to see if I notice anything...
 
Truthfully, I think RP is overrated. Mobil 1 all the way. As far as filters. I go with K&N. Stay away from Fram.
 
They did a test and there was one other oil in the world that beat mobil 1 15w-50 and it was some cray 20 dollar a quart european oil that won, but not by a huge margin. my one buddy showed me the results a while back, ill have to try and find them.

Joe
SBR
 
Among all the synthetic oils, the only thing that matters is that the oil has a full synthetic base. I am sure that Mobil 1 Full Synth is one of these, but I have no experience with other oils. Our Castrol rep even uses it in his cars. The primary advantage that you are going to achieve with a synthetic oil is lack of thermal breakdown at high temperatures. They won't necessarily flow better, since conventional oils are multi-viscosity these days, but if you are running them in a high-temperature, high-stress environment (like a turbocharged DSM driven aggressively) then you will notice a difference. As far as leakage goes, the only reason that it is not really recommended for cars over 100k miles is that because of smaller molecules, it tends to leak out of small openings that previously exhibited no leaks with the larger molecules of conventional base oils. Synthetic oils do not cause these leaks, nor do they damage the engine in any way. I personally use Mobil 1 10w-30 in my 97 GST, which had over 100k miles when i got it. I have yet to notice any new leaks or problems, and the oil is in much better condition when I change it now.
 
I know its a matter of input, but just wated to see what some of you had to say.

I have always had 10w30 then I switched to 5@30 a few months back. I thought this was thicker when it actually is thinner.

So now eiher I will go back to 10w30, or switch to 10w40 which I heard is thicker.

this will be on 2G running on 140K miles on 19psi on the 14b.

Pretty much wanting suggestion on why to stay with 10w30.
 
The first number is the cold starting weight, the second is the operational weight. Straight weight is the same weight all the time. Higher the number the thicker it is. 5w30 is thinner at first (winter starts) then thickens for protection. 10w30 is a good medium. 10w40 is medium then thick upon operation. I run Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30 personally.
 
Yea i have read the above link, there lots of thread on oils.

I am using synthetic. I guess I was more or less asking with having higher milage if I switch to thicker, 10w40 would it cause any issues. my thought was having higher milage and running higher boost it would help coat the inside better. but then again I read having to thick will cause parts to move slower cause the oil to thick. Something of that sort.

I will prob stick 10w30 unless I read some of you recomending other wise.
 
Mobil 1 10W-30 Full synthetic .
I have been using it religiously after my new motor hit the 5000 mark, and now im at 10,000
Use 5W-30 full synthetic for the ass biting weather you have in the winter.;)
 
I've used Castrol GTX 10W30 (non-synthetic) since the first oil change without any issues. I purchased the car in Nov 97 and it now has ~97K.

Oil brand/type is very subjective and you will get as many opinions as to which one to use as you get answers.
 
Thanks, yea I will be sticking with mobile1(full synthetic). I just was debating on the 10W30or 40. I see a lot on here are running the 10w30 so I will prob stick with that then.
 
Mobil 1 is prefered because of it's ease to get. I prefer to run Amsoil in my car but not very many places carry it so it is kinda hard to get. Mobil 1 is going to be run in 75% of the cars running synthetic here.
 
I spun a few bearings using 10W-30 Mobil 1. I would only use Mobil 1 on STOCK cars with STOCK clearences. If it's be bored over, bearings have different tolerences, etc, I'd run a heavier weight synthetic blend like Castrol. It WILL prolong the life of your Engine.
 
Since this is a fresh engine I would definitely Change your oil after a good break in period, and I would start out with somthing like a 20w-50w or 10w-40w after that you could still use the same weight or go with a lighter weight if you want but that would probably depend on your engine.
 
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