what oil should i use [Merged 2-7]

dunndilly · Nov 5, 2002

As this compilation of threads illustrates,

IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER WHAT OIL YOU USE.

It's the twenty-first century. Metallurgy and lubrication science have both taken such astounding leaps over the last fifty years that virtually all the once-true tales of oils and preferences are obsolete.
If you're seriously interested in what goes into, why, how and how much oil, check http://bobistheoilguy.com/

what oil should i use for a 90talon tsi awd during the winter?

Injected · Dec 8, 2004

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=467580

Look through here.

Mits3gts · Dec 16, 2004

i recently bought a 90 fwd turbo. rebuilt head,new turbo,compression is perfect across the board,168k miles. 1 owner car,the guy i bought it from took real good care. he has always change the oil with regular 10w30. should i change to synthetic or just keep using the regualr oil. the motor doesnt smoke,no lifter tick and runs well.i have searched but didnt really find my answer. if regular oil is the choice, which brand should i go with? thanks

Spyder FX · Dec 16, 2004

It's up to you really, but i'm sure i'd be right in saying that the majority of people on here with turbo cars run synthetic motor oil. Usually mobil 1

oldman · Dec 16, 2004

There's a procedure on here to convert to synthetic. Do not just switch at once, many gaskets might leak especially a motor with 168k.

ADrewzki · Dec 16, 2004

I dunno about you but if it's held up 'til now with regular oil and it doesn't tick or anything, why fix something that's not broken? I'd say just keep using regular oil and get a nice filter and keep changing it every 2500-3000 miles.

Defiant · Dec 17, 2004

Search for the many, many existing oil threads.

It won't matter which you decide to go with.

Race94 · Dec 27, 2004

I'm not looking for super expensive flashy oils i want to use a good oil for a modest HP engine. I previously used regular 20w 50 quaker state oil on my 7-bolt and i had no issues.

I am unsure if i should use another type of oil in my 6-bolt, i was thinking semi-synthetic or whatnot or should i use synthetic?
Also what numbers?(i don't know what they mean)

Thanks

dsm10sec · Dec 27, 2004

Mobil 1 5w-30 is what I use.. If you're thinking about going full synthetic think Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. Those two and one other I forgot the name of are the only true full synthetics. The others are just semis even though they say synthetic.

anconover · Dec 27, 2004

If its a broken in motor, ive always used mobil 1 10w30.

If this is a brand new NOT broken in motor, you need to use non synthetic for first 1k or so.

Maglin · Dec 27, 2004

After Break in Mobil One is hands down the best synthetic you can buy. My buddy races stock car and was seeing strange irregularits with Redline and Royal Purple. So he purchased 5 quarts of each Mobile One, Redline, and Royal Purple and had them burn each quart through a spectruim anyalizer. (SP) The results where staggering. Mobile one was the most consistant throughout. The Redline and Royal Purple shows some pretty major swings from qt to qt in it's chemical make-up.

Their is a little useless info for you. Personally if you are not running really lean or Hugh numbers I would go with a synthetic blend. One of the major benifits of a full synthetic is that it doesn't start to burn away until 300+ degrees F as regular mineral oil starts to burn at around 200. Why your oil is black when you change it. Full synthetic oil changes usually should look very clean and almost like new oil. Unless you really get hot enough to burn it then I think you either have a problem or really pushing some very high HP numbers to heat it that much.

boostcreep · Dec 27, 2004

Race94 said:
I'm not looking for super expensive flashy oils i want to use a good oil for a modest HP engine. I previously used regular 20w 50 quaker state oil on my 7-bolt and i had no issues.

I am unsure if i should use another type of oil in my 6-bolt, i was thinking semi-synthetic or whatnot or should i use synthetic?
Also what numbers?(i don't know what they mean)

Thanks

Isnt that alittle heavy? I can understand 10W 40. But 20W 50. Your thoughts....

Maglin · Dec 27, 2004

way to heavy... On a new motor I would use 5w30... On a tired motor 10w30/10w40... And on a beat up motor that I'm using cause I have no choice and have to wait to rebuild straight SAE 50 or 60...

JuiceGsTurbo024 · Dec 27, 2004

Do some research but i am currently using Castrol or Queaker State Synthetic Blend since its only 2.99 a bottle! Its up to you! but depending where you live! choose the right thickness!

DONT FORGET! if you do go SYNTHETIC OIL! you can never go back to normal oil you must always use SYN ! and thats pricey! hahah

ALSO Break in use Reg oil then after 1K get syn or syn blend! good luck with your motor and dont forget oil change every 3K!! your oil will be dirty! and also change filter after 1k~!

AND the Number on the oil is the thickness the oil is based! higher number thiner oil i beliave and lower number thicker oil! double check fellas!!! :thumb:

cagri · Dec 28, 2004

on a built race engine, you should not use anything but 20 - 50, that is what Magnus and all other reputable builders recommend, on an engine built for street use only, well that is a different story.

RamenPride · Dec 28, 2004

JuiceGsTurbo024 said:
DONT FORGET! if you do go SYNTHETIC OIL! you can never go back to normal oil you must always use SYN ! and thats pricey! hahah

wrong

Maglin · Dec 28, 2004

Actually the higher the number the thicker the oil. Most pro engine builders run very thin oil cause it allows the recipacating assembly (sp) to move more freely and thus gain a few HP (Like maybe 5 tops) but in all out heads up drag that 5 HP can be the difference between winning and loosing. These engines are also being rebuild between every race.

Also the myth about not being able to go back once you use synthetic is true and false. If you have cork gaskets then yes. Once you go synthetic for a extended period of time it soaks into the cork gaskets. When you go back to mineral oil the gaskets don't really soak up the mineral oil that well and they will allow very small portions of oil to pass by them. This is usually on high miliage motors as well. If all your gaskets are rubber their usually isn't any problem. But it varies from engine to engine.

I can see for a longevity purpose using SAE 50 in a drag app cause you are making something crazy like 200-250 HP per cylinder and the force placed on the bearing surfaces can squeeze out the thinner oil and cause excessive bearing wear. For about 98% of the people on here 5w30 should be the oil of choice after a fresh break in. If you live in extreme hot climate you might even think aout 10w30 or even 10w40 due to the extreme heat.

And FYI for everyone. The first number in oil weight is it's cold thickness. 5w30 for example. It is as think as straight SAE 5 when cold (think they measure it as 40 degrees). It act's like SAE 30 when hot. Why it's called a multi weight oil. It's to help with cold starts so you don't run your bearings dry on cold days cause the oil is to thick. Also most all multi weight oils have detergents in them to help kept the engine clean. Most all straight weight oils are non detergent oil's. If a vehicle has been running say SAE 30 for 60K miles and you switch to a multi weight high detergent oil it will start to clean the oil cake build up on the block walls and in the head. That all ends up on the bottom of the pan and usually clogs up the oil pick-up causeing engine failure. I've seen this happen on a few motors. Most common thing is poor maintance. Guy doesn't change his oil for say 30K Miles and sells the car. New owner changes oil 200 miles later the motor is locked up cause their is a inch of oil cake on the bottom of his oil pan now.

It's also a very good Idea to stay with the same brand of oil. Might not do anything for you but I've been told by a few older mechanics and some shop teachers to stick with the same brand and oil weight if at all possible.

sweet97 · Dec 28, 2004

I use Mobil 1. The weight is 15W-50. The syntetics will hold oil pressure longer. I have had to change regular oils as soon as 1000 miles due to a loss in pressure attributed to breakdown from excessive heat. The Mobil 1 maintains the oil pressure between the 3000 mile oil change intervals. Wal-mart sells 5 quart boxes for $19.99. My motor and turbo cost too much to worry about an extra $15./3000 miles, IF the $1./quart would last 3000 miles-it doesn't! Mark

Defiant · Dec 29, 2004

Wow, nobody asked "which oil?" until Wednesday. I was starting to worry.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146012
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131025
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122913
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9140
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2133

The correct answer: ANY.

If you want bad oil, you'll have to make your own, and it'll take about 30,000 miles to do.

As for what the numbers mean, try these:

http://www.agnr.umd.edu/users/Bioreng/fact181b.htm
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
http://www.corax.org/hotwater/oil/Oil-3.html
http://www.stiweb.com/appnotes/jb.htm
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
http://www.motoroilbible.com/two.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Be aware that many of these sites have products they want to sell you and their "opinions" are very likely to be slanted.

You have no earthly need for any synthetic. Using it won't hurt a thing.

newkidd · Jan 9, 2005

just wondering what brand and wieght oil every one is using.

BaddAssGst · Jan 9, 2005

mobil1 fully synthetic 5w30 except in the summer when i use 15w50

Slipstream · Jan 9, 2005

CyberEye · Jan 9, 2005

AMSOIL > *

I'm using Amsoil 15W30 right now, I'll probably use either 5W30 or 0W30 next time

ProjectTalon130 · Jan 9, 2005

CyberEye said:
AMSOIL > *

I'm using Amsoil 15W30 right now, I'll probably use either 5W30 or 0W30 next time

Agreed, been using since I got the car, its in everything from my motor , all the way back to my rear diff.
:thumb:

CyberEye · Jan 9, 2005

ProjectTalon130 said:
Agreed, been using since I got the car, its in everything from my motor , all the way back to my rear diff.

stuffs awesome, expensive, but when it will last you 2 or 3 regular oil changes, it's worth it. Just have to keep up with changing the oil filter.

voltron · Jan 9, 2005

Royal Purple 10w30

The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

what oil should i use [Merged 2-7]

dunndilly

Injected

Mits3gts

Spyder FX

oldman

ADrewzki

Defiant

Race94

dsm10sec

anconover

Maglin

boostcreep

Maglin

JuiceGsTurbo024

cagri

RamenPride

Maglin

sweet97

Defiant

newkidd

BaddAssGst

Slipstream

CyberEye

ProjectTalon130

CyberEye

voltron

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