What is required to tighten head studs on 6 bolt?

[95EclipseGST]

I am getting oil in my coolant and want to try to tighten my head studs or even just see if they are loose. I know the pattern but what all is required to do this? Just pull the valve cover off and the head studs are right there? What all tools will i need to complete just tightening the stock ones, not replacing them one by one, just yet. I just want to see if they came loose on me etc and retorque. Thank you

 

[andymoraitis]

Head studs on a 1G/6bolt are 10mm. Obviously you'll need a torque wrench for accuracy and when you pull the valve cover, you'll see them exposed near the cams. Based on the fact that you're mixing oil and coolant, I'd get an OEM composite head gasket to have on hand. Just make sure that if you pull the head to clean off any residue with a razor blade (lots of them) and then sand it with a block sander and some 1000 grit to clean the mating surfaces and get a tight seal. You may also want to invest in a set of ARP head studs if you have to pull the head anyway.

It would be even more important to know how this happened. It takes a great deal to stretch a 1G head stud and I was wondering if you had an overheat condition. Just for kicks, I would also replace the radiator cap and thermostat just to make sure that the entire cooling system seals and holds good pressure. Better safe than sorry.

Hope that helps,

Andy

 

[95EclipseGST]

If the 1g 6 bolt uses 10mm, i read on here that if you buy ARP to get 12mm that they are for 6 bolts. So when you go with ARP they are 2mm bigger? Yes i did overheat a bit. I just need this as a temp fix until i get back to the states and get my car shipped back there. I have no place to take it on this Island and am scared to try another timing belt job. I jumped teeth on the last one. Is there a way to flush my coolant system out of all the oil before i tighten the studs? Im even thinking of installing ARP's one at a time and torque to 85 lbs. This is really an emergency fix to last 2 months. Before getting too much into head gasket replacement, Please understand this and that i live on a small island off sardinia. It takes a month just to get a part here and when i run into problems or need another tool or order something, it takes that long each time. Once i get it back to the states i am taking it in for full head work to be done. Thank you very much for your help.

 

[andymoraitis]

I understand your predicament. I would check torque and then drive it as little as possible over the next couple of months until you can get it squared away. Tightening the studs MAY work, but if you had an overheat (depending on how severe) it could have either lifted the gasket (best case) or warped the head (worst case). As far as flushing the coolant, you can drain the radiator and then pull the lower rad hose to drain the block with the radiator cap off. Run some distilled water and coolant through it and then flush it again. It's also advisable to lay off the boost and go easy on it since there will be a greater tendency to push coolant when you're boosting hard.

I hope it's best case scenario and I think if you're careful, you'll be OK.

Good luck,

Andy

P.S. I'm not sure about the size on 1G ARP's, but I can do some digging and see what I come up with. Then again, if you're not planning to make huge power, the stockers are fine (I'd replace them though just to be safe). I only added mine since I was re-building the bottom end, but my 7 bolt studs were good for up to 28psi on a 16G with a composite head gasket.

 

[95EclipseGST]

I have a fully built 6 bolt with an evo 3 turbo. I plan on making big power when i can get it running right. I have bigger injectors and fuel pump but want to fix this stuff first before adding more boost. So IF i did warp the head, what does that involve? Getting it planed off or replacing it? Im going to take it to a dsm shop on the southeastern coast when i get it back. I am a fairly good mechanic, as i did the entire 1g swap by myself with no help from anyone, but im still dumb when it comes to some things and still post in teh newbie forum often. I have a brand new torque wrench, so what other parts would i need to order and get sent here to do this head torqing. IE if i need an allen tip deep socket or something, i dont have that. Just basic wrenches. Thanks again.

 

[andymoraitis]

Here's some information on adapting to the ARP setup on a 6 bolt from the stock studs:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202963&highlight=6+bolt+arp

 

[95EclipseGST]

Im not sure if they are ARP in there right now or not. I bought the engine already built, so is tehre any way to tell ARP head studs from Stock ones when i pull one out? I guess you said stock is 10mm right so if i have to use a 12 mm socket then they must be ARP? Thanks

 

[andymoraitis]

I'm fairly sure that the 1G ARP's use a 14mm 12 point nut (could be 12mm 12 point). ARP's will also be black on both the nut and stud.

 

[95EclipseGST]

Can anyone confirm this and all tools that will be needed for this job? I have to order the tools online and dont want to be stuck needing a special socket allen wrench or something. Thank you very much for the help.