The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

What is needed to change piston rings?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rolltidero

Proven Member
319
24
Jan 9, 2014
Madison, Alabama
My piston rings are fried."Now me and the mad scientist have to tear the block apart." Well me and one of my friends are planning to try to replace them ourselves without taking the block out. I know the general process, remove the head, drop the oil pan, and remove pistons. Obviously I am going to need piston rings and I might as well change other gaskets while it's apart. My friend has alot of experience with engine as far as assembly, me not so much. I don't plan on building the engine....right now, but what else will I need to change piston rings? Basically tools and parts. Thanks for any responses.
 
You change then ten times if you want, but if you don't properly hone the block than they won't seal very well. The engine needs to come out and be torn down. Than the cylinders need to be honed and the piston to cylinder clearance checked. If it is still within spec than you can put it back together. If it is out of spec than it will need to be bored and new pistons. What is leading you to believe that your rings are bad in the first place?
 
You change then ten times if you want, but if you don't properly hone the block than they won't seal very well. The engine needs to come out and be torn down. Than the cylinders need to be honed and the piston to cylinder clearance checked. If it is still within spec than you can put it back together. If it is out of spec than it will need to be bored and new pistons. What is leading you to believe that your rings are bad in the first place?

My turbo seals and valve stem seals are good but I am blowing out more smoke than a stoner on 4/20. So much to the point that I can't see the car behind me. I have also noticed a large drop in power and I'm burning oil...alot
 
Go to adv auto and rent a compression tester and report back! They are simpler to use and should give a good idea of what's going on internally. We wanna see some numbers, not a mechanic's opinion! We are here to help you have a proper diagnosis and repair plan. I don't trust mechanic's...if they aren't DSMers!

I've had a completely clogged PCV valve allow my crankcase pressure to build to the point that I smoked screened my whole neighborhood in 2nd gear going about 35mph! You would have thought I didn't have any piston rings!
 
Go to adv auto and rent a compression tester and report back! They are simpler to use and should give a good idea of what's going on internally. We wanna see some numbers, not a mechanic's opinion! We are here to help you have a proper diagnosis and repair plan. I don't trust mechanic's...if they aren't DSMers! That's the only place I take any of my vehicles in town!

I've had a completely clogged PCV valve allow my crankcase pressure to build to the point that I smoked screened my whole neighborhood in 2nd gear going about 35mph! You would have thought I didn't have any piston rings!

I had this very same issue one time. There was a metal intake that came with a car that i bought taken apart. I didn't notice that someone had closed the hole with rtv where the valve cover vent hose attaches. I swapped on 3 different turbo's until i figured it out. The thing would literally make such thick smoke that you couldn't see behind you.
 
One can have great compression, but the oil rings could be bad...something to think about.

True on the PCV situation - plugged system can cause excessive crankcase pressure causing major oil burning ... and approaching pushing out the main seals at the crank ends.

Nobody said on how his spark plugs are looking like. If their black and slimy, then a definite oil ring problem is in store, but dry then we can blame the top end.
 
One can have great compression, but the oil rings could be bad...something to think about.

True on the PCV situation - plugged system can cause excessive crankcase pressure causing major oil burning ... and approaching pushing out the main seals at the crank ends.

Nobody said on how his spark plugs are looking like. If their black and slimy, then a definite oil ring problem is in store, but dry then we can blame the top end.

Under the cover they are shiny and there is oil pooling in the front. I'm not sure about compression right now but I do know that both the power loss and oil burning started at the same time.
 
How many miles on the motor? Has it been properly maintained?

Do you have a boost gauge? Is it hitting the same boost you were running before the noticed power loss? Have you checked the turbo for shaft play?

It very well could be rings, but you should exhaust all options before re-ringing a motor or doing a complete engine overhaul! I'd hate for you to tear into the engine based on a potential incorrect diagnosis! It's a lot of freaking meticulous work to build an engine correctly that will last you for many years!
 
How many miles on the motor? Has it been properly maintained?

Do you have a boost gauge? Is it hitting the same boost you were running before the noticed power loss? Have you checked the turbo for shaft play?

It very well could be rings, but you should exhaust all options before re-ringing a motor or doing a complete engine overhaul! I'd hate for you to tear into the engine based on a potential incorrect diagnosis! It's a lot of freaking meticulous work to build an engine correctly that will last you for many years!

Engine-Miles 130,000 well maintained (I've kept up with fluids and belts I don't know about previous owners though)
Turbo-no shaft play, rebuilt around 10,000 miles ago
Boost gauge-yes I have one and no it is nowhere near te same boost levels
Plugs-I will post a picture when I'm home

and I'm sorry I appreciate all the help but I know the rings are bad I just want to know how to change them
 
Last edited:
I did a compression test and everything was normal. Now my turbo is not spooling hardly at all. Like 3000rpm an 3psi of boost. I'm still blowing a lot of smoke. Is there any way to tell if it's turbo seals or piston rings?
 
Well if the turbo is barely spooling and it is smoking bad, that is usually a sign of a bad turbo. Pull the intake and feel for shaft play, especially in and out play. Next remove the manifold and see if there is oil in the exhaust ports, or just oil in the turbine housing.
 
Maybe a quick and temp fix for now is to disconnect the oil line that runs to the turbo and cap it off. This would stop oil consumption.

Then undo the waste gate actuator arm from the waste gate connection and wire open the waste gate.

Wiring open the WG disables the turbo. Just don't get too crazy on the gas pedal.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top