What did you do to your DSM today?

[gofer]

Looks good PKSystems. This is what I was referring to when I asked about adding addition diff mounts to your subframe.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/371574-how-properly-mount-your-2g-rear-diff.html

 

[pksystems]

Looks good PKSystems. This is what I was referring to when I asked about adding addition diff mounts to your subframe.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/371574-how-properly-mount-your-2g-rear-diff.html

Page 260 ... I did something similar, except I made a poly mount with smooth-on 790

 

[gofer]

Nice. Saved yourself ~ $300 too. I'm glad you did that, I forgot to post that link and was hoping to lead you to that thread (assuming you hadn't seen it) before you painted the subframe. You were ahead of the game though...

 

[Blurred Talon]

Continued labeling my interior harness.

 

[pksystems]

Bought some new (used) summer wheels off evilbay.....

Evo IX BBS 17's

 

[curt-s]

What didn't I do today... 10 hours of nothing going right.

Finished the battery tray drop to subframe
Bought new battery
Install battery
Moved fuse box above battery
Repainted intake and uicp while they were pulled
While paint was drying, install tubular manifold
Copper gasket has wrong size holes.... file away for 20 minutes
Bolt up manifold
Put turbo on, replace lines, new feed, new drain, new soft water lines
Install dried uicp then intake, since I made an air box its 7 times as hard to accomplish
Full oil change
Coolant change
Broke dipstick off somehow when pulling it out?
Drive jeep to parts store to source a jerry rigged recirc tube (had to be 1" to 1 3/8" Id on each end) found a rad hose to hack
Start car, dies immediately
Restart, runs for 10 seconds at 11.2 afr.... hmmmm
J pipe to intercooler coupler not hooked up. Yay
Restart, good, drive
Hear what I thought was a coupler blow off on the freeway... no wrench, no light... lame
Limp back home, find something amazing
The boost BLEW my pipe out of the threads on the turbo outlet, how @18psi?
Go to home depot @ 8:54pm, snag the next size up bolts to tap the housing
Get back and tap the holes the next size up, bolts so big they don't sit flush...
Spend 30 or so minutes thinking of a way to make spacers temporarily
Drill out two smaller size nuts to space the bolts out and be able to tighten them down
Holy shit it worked, go for another drive, or so I thought....
Start car, dies immediately
Start car again, dies after a few seconds.... fml, I didn't put the coupler on the j pipe again

Finally, took her for about an hour long cruise, the tubular manifold definately changed the harmonics of the exhaust. Time to pull her back in the garage for the repaint now that she is running again.

Sorry that was so long... today was a nightmare.

At least it ended up right.
Worse if you jumped timing right at the end with that hour long cruise.
I'd have the car crushed at that point.

 

[Cox Abele]

Changed my cluster color from factory yellow to red in order to match my gauges. $4 LED strip, 600 grit paper and time was all it took. Looks AMAZING in person.

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[Archer Fabrications]

Ummm writeup??? I hate how dim mine are

 

[Cox Abele]

Ummm writeup??? I hate how dim mine are

DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com - View Single Post - 2g Spyder

 

[curt-s]

Tried to decide what I want to do with $700 in income tax rebate.. if I want to put it all in the car, which needs some costly maintenance items (clutch master cylinder and harmonic damper) even before I get to the fic 750s, small 16g, dsmlink, and SD conversion (over $1200 right there)

..or just let it sit for the year
..or pull the engine and scrap the rest

 

[Archer Fabrications]

First or second one

 

[gofer]

Tried to decide what I want to do with $700 in income tax rebate.. if I want to put it all in the car, which needs some costly maintenance items (clutch master cylinder and harmonic damper) even before I get to the fic 750s, small 16g, dsmlink, and SD conversion (over $1200 right there)

..or just let it sit for the year
..or pull the engine and scrap the rest

I feel your pain with maintenance. My 100% stock (183,000 mile) GS that I DD was leaking so I crawled underneath it this a.m. and looks like I need to replace the power steering rack, crank position sensor, oil pressure switch, driver side axle (boot's torn), and the passenger side axle seal because it's leaking.

Not the money that's frustrating since the car's been ole' reliable since I bought it in 2002 but the time to fix everything is frustrating.

Don't scrap the car, a clutch master cylinder and damper aren't to pricey unless you're trying to get a Fluidyne.

 

[Spanky_DSM]

Got a Tsi AWD shell.. Came nothing but the rear diff/drive shaft and full interior..

Also got the Mounts. Turbo, New cv axels, and radiator and engine already..

So far what ive been doing and and have gotten in the mail.

Oem Flywheel bolts, 4 layer gasket, and tranny to block bolts.

 

[Cox Abele]

Continuing progress on reviving a $100 carbon fiber hood. I'd knocked it down and brought it back once before, but wasn't happy with the final results once it finally dried completely. I didn't get deep enough into the clear and could still see some heavy hazing. Since I hadn't cleared it yet, I started all over. So far...

120 grit dry
120 grit wet
220 grit wet
600 grit wet

Still to go, 800w, 1000w, 1500w and 2000w. I'll likely clear it this evening. It's looking great so far.

 

[curt-s]

I feel your pain with maintenance. My 100% stock (183,000 mile) GS that I DD was leaking so I crawled underneath it this a.m. and looks like I need to replace the power steering rack, crank position sensor, oil pressure switch, driver side axle (boot's torn), and the passenger side axle seal because it's leaking.

Not the money that's frustrating since the car's been ole' reliable since I bought it in 2002 but the time to fix everything is frustrating.

Don't scrap the car, a clutch master cylinder and damper aren't to pricey unless you're trying to get a Fluidyne.

You'd be surprised.

Those two together are about $400 out the door up in Canada since we get nailed with every damn tax and terrible exchange.

I was hoping that the MC would last but towards the end of last season, I've had to already bleed the entire system once because it turned brown, and it was leaking behind the boot by the time I was done (6000km on the rebuild, Fidanza 3.2 kit PP).

The damper would be OEM since it's all stock block on stock bore. Sure I'd like the bling, but a Fluidampr and MC would run about 700 right there alone. ick.

I'd get everything shipped to the border, but the exchange rate would kill me regardless.

Then there's full suspension and bushings, body work, tires, reconditioning spare set of wheels, complete exhaust to replace the stove pipe, all new intercooler piping.. in a body that's tired and giving every reason for phantom knock that it can.

It was fun to watch this little heap pull who'da-thunk-its on the occassional doubter, but there's a point you reach where you have to ask yourself "is it even worth it anymore?". I'd scrap the body, but keep everything I put money into, and just store it -- much easier than trying to store 15ft of steel somewhere safe. Maybe a swap into a completely different type of chassis down the road. Haven't decided. Maybe I'm just home sick from not being behind its wheel the entire winter and I'm blue.

 

[Blurred Talon]

Continuing progress on reviving a $100 carbon fiber hood. I'd knocked it down and brought it back once before, but wasn't happy with the final results once it finally dried completely. I didn't get deep enough into the clear and could still see some heavy hazing. Since I hadn't cleared it yet, I started all over. So far...

120 grit dry
120 grit wet
220 grit wet
600 grit wet

Still to go, 800w, 1000w, 1500w and 2000w. I'll likely clear it this evening. It's looking great so far.

I feel your pain, I'm going to start polishing my HKS muffler tonight, it's in sad shape. I hate polishing stainless.

 

[Chad1993]

Nothing!!! Waiting on parts to come in.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Made a seal for the half raD out of a small piece aluminum cause it extended a little far out due to hitting ic pipe on the other side

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[Cox Abele]

I feel your pain, I'm going to start polishing my HKS muffler tonight, it's in sad shape. I hate polishing stainless.

Polishing is a skill one can get good at with patience. I'm far from perfect, but I've salvaged a lot of parts people gave up on because I was willing to put the time into polishing and restoring things. My wheels cost me $50.

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The hood I'm working on cost me $100.

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I cleared it tonight and will need to go back and will wet sand it one last time before I'm finished.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Made a seal for the half raD out of a small piece aluminum cause it extended a little far out due to hitting ic pipe on the other side

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Ducting makes all the difference in the world.

Last time the car was out it was about 20*F and the car would not get above 150*F. Same motor, radiator and thermostat would easily climb to sit at 206-210*F in the other chassis without the face mask and ducting.

I'm hoping this pays dividends at the half-mile in June, probably won't be as important come round two in October.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

If ive got a half rad would i benefit for putting a sheet of aluminum behind the intercooler where the other half of the rad used to be? So it forced more air through it?

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Here was the before

 

[Blurred Talon]

Yes you would.

Civics have a plastic plate that blocks the other half of the bay from the factory.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

So it would be good not just flat like a dam but angles inword tword the rad.

 

[pksystems]

Bought a yonaka 3" Cat converter off evilbay. Probably need one to pass road inspection.... will have to hack up my straight pipe and add some flanges.

Got raped by UPS with brokerage fees... 3x what their site said they would be. Had to pay it or else they would keep these things hostage till it was paid.

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[curt-s]

Once your item ships, call UPS with the tracking # and tell them you'll clear it yourself.

UPS will call you when the package arrives, you go down there to get your paperwork and then take it to a customs office. Pay your taxes/duty there, go back to UPS with the completed paperwork and they'll release your package.

I would have been raped for $60+ in brokerage for a $90 Hakko; ended up paying only around $10 in tax and duty.