What did you do to your DSM today?

[curt-s]

Would you be willing to do more 1g tails?

At this time, there are a few things that are preventing me from doing this.

- I don't trust myself enough to bake/separate tail lights that are owned by somebody else. Due to the design of these, with lots of thin plastic trim, you end up deforming parts of it in the removal process.. mainly that long thin section that goes up over the body on top of the lights. You can fix, but it won't look new anymore.

- The set of lights probably ran between $500-600 (with the LEDs on an incredible eBay find of 600 for $100) for the pair, all electronics/supplies involved. This cost would obviously be paid by the customer, but the labour involved is around 40 hours. My total labour in this job is well over 100, but the rest was figuring stuff out and doing things for the first time ever. Let me say that my gf was NOT happy during this.

- I'm pretty certain I shortened my life quite considerably with soldering 2,200 LED posts (4 per LED), not to mention the rest of the components.

- I used a ProtoMat S103 and ProtoLaser S to laser up the boards and do the hole drilling process. My access to this equipment is somewhat limited, and the process is pretty time consuming. Each of the two 9" boards, to laser and drill, takes about 2.5 hours, provided all the equipment functions properly and you can bang everything out quickly. This is the coolest equipment I've ever used:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQ_cfgILjJU]alkdflkarowue - YouTube[/ame]

- The end result is NOT waterproof (yet?) It turns out there is a separation moulded into the housing between the lights that do your brake/running and your turns. That's how it keeps the left/right sides dark while your brake lights are on. This has to be removed, and when you do, it goes clear through the housing. You can see it underneath the bottom of the boards in that picture. To fix this, you have to fill the cavity with some sort of goo; I used windshield adhesive because that's what I had laying around. It's effectiveness is still undetermined because I'm avoiding water at all costs at the moment .

 

[Blurred Talon]

Yup. I was inspired by azdave's work on his previous 2G from years ago, and I wanted to try it on a 1Ga.

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Specs:
Atmel ATMEGA328P (Arduino Uno knockoff) controlled via custom signal converter board (9v/5v regulators and optocouplers)
NXP PCA9685 PWM controller (16ch 12bit i2c)
275 Philips SuperFlux LEDs (HPWT-DH00-G4000) per side
7 individually controllable segments per side, each with a custom Sharp PQ09RD21 based driver
RGB 16x2 i2c LCD + 5 key pad for remote control

I've added a span of 14 LEDs on the console trim to duplicate what the drivers are putting out so that I can monitor for bugs in the code, blown fuses, and self amusement.

driving functions:
Separate running/brake brightnesses, sequential turn signals with persistence and segment fade up/out (ie. a bar graph), single segment sequential hazards

fun functions:
kightrider scan w/ fading trails
sine wave
pulse
alternate side strobing
stacking/wiping segments

I'll have to take an all-inclusive video of the setup and functionality during the next couple days.

At this time, there are a few things that are preventing me from doing this.

- I don't trust myself enough to bake/separate tail lights that are owned by somebody else. Due to the design of these, with lots of thin plastic trim, you end up deforming parts of it in the removal process.. mainly that long thin section that goes up over the body on top of the lights. You can fix, but it won't look new anymore.

- The set of lights probably ran between $500-600 (with the LEDs on an incredible eBay find of 600 for $100) for the pair, all electronics/supplies involved. This cost would obviously be paid by the customer, but the labour involved is around 40 hours. My total labour in this job is well over 100, but the rest was figuring stuff out and doing things for the first time ever. Let me say that my gf was NOT happy during this.

- I'm pretty certain I shortened my life quite considerably with soldering 2,200 LED posts (4 per LED), not to mention the rest of the components.

- I used a ProtoMat S103 and ProtoLaser S to laser up the boards and do the hole drilling process. My access to this equipment is somewhat limited, and the process is pretty time consuming. Each of the two 9" boards, to laser and drill, takes about 2.5 hours, provided all the equipment functions properly and you can bang everything out quickly. This is the coolest equipment I've ever used:
alkdflkarowue - YouTube

- The end result is NOT waterproof (yet?) It turns out there is a separation moulded into the housing between the lights that do your brake/running and your turns. That's how it keeps the left/right sides dark while your brake lights are on. This has to be removed, and when you do, it goes clear through the housing. You can see it underneath the bottom of the boards in that picture. To fix this, you have to fill the cavity with some sort of goo; I used windshield adhesive because that's what I had laying around. It's effectiveness is still undetermined because I'm avoiding water at all costs at the moment .

Awesome!
Similar to my set up (same LEDs but more lots more as I've got my center section done too) and I'm using a TI MSP430 and TLC5960 to power and drive the LEDs.

Where did you get the laser etcher?
I need to get working on mine again.

 

[curt-s]

Awesome!
Similar to my set up (same LEDs but more lots more as I've got my center section done too) and I'm using a TI MSP430 and TLC5960 to power and drive the LEDs.

Where did you get the laser etcher?
I need to get working on mine again.

A NFP organization called AssentWorks here in Winnipeg. I was going to chemical etch them but this allowed me much finer control (down to 2mil traces, 1 if you're daring enough) and no worries about the quality. Had to learn how to use PCB creation software so that I could export Gerber, but it was well worth it. Unfortunately, the ghetto bit is everything is screwed onto fiber board for the time being until I can get time to box it up.

Oh, by the way, you were my other main inspiration for wanting to do this project.

I hate both of you

Another video during testing, pre vehicle fitment. Lots of code changes after that.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSlcO15F94M[/ame]

 

[Blurred Talon]

A NFP organization called AssentWorks here in Winnipeg. I was going to chemical etch them but this allowed me much finer control (down to 2mil traces, 1 if you're daring enough) and no worries about the quality. Had to learn how to use PCB creation software so that I could export Gerber, but it was well worth it. Unfortunately, the ghetto bit is everything is screwed onto fiber board for the time being until I can get time to box it up.

Oh, by the way, you were my other main inspiration for wanting to do this project.

I hate both of you

Another video during testing, pre vehicle fitment. Lots of code changes after that.
VID 20130721 00003 - YouTube

HAHA, I feel your pain man, believe me! I'm dreading learning the uC stuff, I've got no experience in programming and not looking forward to it. Lucky a friend of mine is a programmer and has experience with the MSP430,
I'd like to get all my boards professionally done but I've got them drawn in AutoCAD already so I don't really want to transfer them over to Eagle. However DIY etching your own double sided PCBs isn't very easy. I'm going to use JST connectors on my boards in the end, so everything is plug and play.

Good work on your tails! This is really not something everyone does so I know all the hardwork that goes into it.

 

[Bud92gsx]

At this time, there are a few things that are preventing me from doing this.

- I don't trust myself enough to bake/separate tail lights that are owned by somebody else. Due to the design of these, with lots of thin plastic trim, you end up deforming parts of it in the removal process.. mainly that long thin section that goes up over the body on top of the lights. You can fix, but it won't look new anymore.

- The set of lights probably ran between $500-600 (with the LEDs on an incredible eBay find of 600 for $100) for the pair, all electronics/supplies involved. This cost would obviously be paid by the customer, but the labour involved is around 40 hours. My total labour in this job is well over 100, but the rest was figuring stuff out and doing things for the first time ever. Let me say that my gf was NOT happy during this.

- I'm pretty certain I shortened my life quite considerably with soldering 2,200 LED posts (4 per LED), not to mention the rest of the components.

- I used a ProtoMat S103 and ProtoLaser S to laser up the boards and do the hole drilling process. My access to this equipment is somewhat limited, and the process is pretty time consuming. Each of the two 9" boards, to laser and drill, takes about 2.5 hours, provided all the equipment functions properly and you can bang everything out quickly. This is the coolest equipment I've ever used:
alkdflkarowue - YouTube

- The end result is NOT waterproof (yet?) It turns out there is a separation moulded into the housing between the lights that do your brake/running and your turns. That's how it keeps the left/right sides dark while your brake lights are on. This has to be removed, and when you do, it goes clear through the housing. You can see it underneath the bottom of the boards in that picture. To fix this, you have to fill the cavity with some sort of goo; I used windshield adhesive because that's what I had laying around. It's effectiveness is still undetermined because I'm avoiding water at all costs at the moment .

I got a set of tails allready split.I was doing this too but I did it with the easy strip i cut to length.Well they sat ina box of dsm shit for a few months,and well the solder came loose and I said F it.Maybe the leds i was using were the problem..

 

[Bud92gsx]

350 it is, not planning on shock valving.

On the other hand I'm plastidipping bac seat pannels

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After the first coat.

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Dont do it man.I scratched the shit out of mine just putting the interior back in

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I scratched where the seatbelt adjusts and thats it. The back pannels i put on too thick so it feels rubbery , itll peel easy tho. Here I'll take some pix

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You can see the scratch by the belt

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And here is how the night shaded center tail turned out.

And ya, no more back seats for me

 

[Amber]

Yesterday

I first painted my antifreeze resoviour and wiper fluid tank PINK, to match my valve cover. I then painted all the white caps (antifreeze, wiper, 2 brakes), silver...again to match my valve cover. - Just some here and there stuff to dress her up

I then painted my front calipers PINK after they dried, I put on new rotors and brake pads, then on with the calipers. I then added a caliper decal...which really made the caliper pop nicely. - I need to do my rears still, just ran out of time.

Today, I should be finishing up reupolstering the back of my passenger seat...if all goes well...

 

[Spanky_DSM]

Gave my 18g a little bling

I cant wait till it goes back on.. But till then.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

My reaction on realizing everything with the car is finally done and ready to roll pending a shifter cable bracket thats scheduled to arrive monday:

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[Calan]

Wow. You don't look anything like I imagined Chris.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

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Trunk mod in the works?

Wow. You don't look anything like I imagined.

Thats what she said

 

[curt-s]

HAHA, I feel your pain man, believe me! I'm dreading learning the uC stuff, I've got no experience in programming and not looking forward to it. Lucky a friend of mine is a programmer and has experience with the MSP430,
I'd like to get all my boards professionally done but I've got them drawn in AutoCAD already so I don't really want to transfer them over to Eagle. However DIY etching your own double sided PCBs isn't very easy. I'm going to use JST connectors on my boards in the end, so everything is plug and play.

Good work on your tails! This is really not something everyone does so I know all the hardwork that goes into it.

Thanks, means a lot. I've followed your own project and it was a source of great inspiration as it's an awesome piece of work.

I chose the Arduino because they're really cheap (boards are $10 and you can get free samples of the Mega328P from Atmel), readily available and no extra hardware is required. Plus, the language is C/C++, which I have over 15 years experience in, so bonus there

I got a set of tails allready split.I was doing this too but I did it with the easy strip i cut to length.Well they sat ina box of dsm shit for a few months,and well the solder came loose and I said F it.Maybe the leds i was using were the problem..

A strip? Yeah, that could very well be the problem. For tail lights, I'd use nothing other than purpose-designed components. It's always good to overspec. For instance, these may be 70mA LEDs but my tail lights are run at 50% duty, which is still bright, and running lights are about 29% duty, so they spend most of their time "off" actually .

 

[Bud92gsx]

Well i cut the rolls of leds into strips is what i did.LAid them out on plexiglass in rows.And then soldered them up.But after being in a box and not on the car i didnt want to solder them all again to make sure they were still good.IT takes alot of time to even do it with a roll of leds,the soldering time is where it comes down too.

So i threw my led bulbs in my tails again and called it a day.

 

[Blurred Talon]

Thanks, means a lot. I've followed your own project and it was a source of great inspiration as it's an awesome piece of work.

I chose the Arduino because they're really cheap (boards are $10 and you can get free samples of the Mega328P from Atmel), readily available and no extra hardware is required. Plus, the language is C/C++, which I have over 15 years experience in, so bonus there



A strip? Yeah, that could very well be the problem. For tail lights, I'd use nothing other than purpose-designed components. It's always good to overspec. For instance, these may be 70mA LEDs but my tail lights are run at 50% duty, which is still bright, and running lights are about 29% duty, so they spend most of their time "off" actually .

The TI stuff is pretty neat but there is a step learning curve. I've got no experience in this but I'm up for the challenge.

Well i cut the rolls of leds into strips is what i did.LAid them out on plexiglass in rows.And then soldered them up.But after being in a box and not on the car i didnt want to solder them all again to make sure they were still good.IT takes alot of time to even do it with a roll of leds,the soldering time is where it comes down too.

So i threw my led bulbs in my tails again and called it a day.

Soldering really doesn't take all that long with the proper equipment.
I've soldered one of my boards in under 30 minutes.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Then I suppose with the wrong equipment it takes a long time.

 

[Blurred Talon]

A Cheap Wellar soldering iron is not more then $50, it's worth it.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

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Nuff said
Washed the inside now it's clean as new. No more sound deadening no more trunk.

 

[Blurred Talon]

^What are you covering that hole with?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

.100 sheet aluminum.

Rocking a gaping hole til monday.

Trying to get to 2800 or less. Gonna go to the dump on monday.

 

[Blurred Talon]

I forget how thick mine was/is, maybe 1/8th. I wanted to still be able to put stuff in my trunk without it bending .

Good luck on getting the weight down, these cars are rather heavy.

 

[crash89]

I rewired my fuel pump finally yesterday!! Ive been having some ignition break up issues in higher RPM while half throttle or more. Logs were showing I was going lean as the pull progressed. showing 13.9:1 by the time itd break up.. 5400 ish

First pull after the rewire without touching any other settings in link pulled like a beast 2-4th!! So excited! Hour or so later I wanted to try a 1-3. Top of first was a big bang and smoke errrwhere! Ahhh shit what happened? Popped the hood and the dip stick was pushed out and oil all over the place.. whew, zip tie fixed that for now.

Catch cans on the agenda for this winter!!

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I forget how thick mine was/is, maybe 1/8th. I wanted to still be able to put stuff in my trunk without it bending .

Good luck on getting the weight down, these cars are rather heavy.

I think .100 should be fine, the front line fab one is .090 (3/32)and the sheet metal that is thetr stock is probably only 16 gauge,
Plus I'm thinking about a brace/bracket for a fuell cell.

 

[boostback]

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in the process of cleaning the previous owners hacked up wiring job. it was a real work of art and ran great but a big mess under the hood.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Made a template for the trunk cover.

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Just need to trace and plasma cut aluminum.

I'd be willing to make more of theae since i have a template now