What are you 2.3l guys shifting at ?

[Goobdog]

What do you shift at, also list your turbo and cams. Thanks

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

GOOBDOG!!

Martin was shifting at 8k, but his motor also only got 10,000 miles before getting rod knock. The 2.3' have a terrible r/s ratio, probably half the reason his motor didn't last, the other half being he launched off rev limiter at 11/13th. Check into a 2.4L, they get my vote

If you're going to mid high 7k, I've seen a lot of guys go with a 272/264 combo. The new Comp/FP cams are performing very well since HKS doesn't make them anymore.

I'd go with a T4 T61 p trim .58 a/r, should have good spool on a 2.3 2.4 and still make plenty of power before your redline.

-Colin

 

[Jonathan99GSX]

Both the 4g64 and stroked 4g63 have the same rod angle. However you do have a couple of options to improve the rod angle:

2.35L 4g64 = 150mm rod / 100mm stroke = 1.50:1 rod ratio
2.27L 4g63/4g64 crank = 150mm rod / 100mm stroke = 1.50:1 rod ratio
2.07L 4g64/4g63 crank = 156mm rod / 88mm stroke = 1.77:1 rod ratio
2.00L 4g63 = 150mm rod / 88mm stroke = 1.70:1 rod ratio

Since the 2.3L stroker kits have demonstrated that the piston wrist pin can be moved up at least 6mm, you can create a rod length with a long(er) rod 4g64 block, 4g63 crank combination:

2.07L 4g64/4g63 crank = 162mm rod / 88mm stroke = 1.84:1 rod ratio

You can bump this combination to 2.14L with a 1.5mm (~0.060in) overbore.

I personally have a 2.3L 4g63/4g64 combination (0.5mm overbore) which I like very much. However, I would like to be able to rev it out past 8K often. The best of both worlds would be a longer rod 2.12L 4g64/4g63 with 1.0mm overbore. A nice bump in displacement with stratospheric RPM limit.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Being that 1.75:1 is considered to be the ideal r/s ratio, it seems that the 4g64 block/4g63 crank with a 156mm rod and 88mm stroke bored out 40 over would give you a 2.1L with a damn near perfect r/s ratio. Stock 2.0's ain't too shabby at 1.70:1.

 

[My96AWD]

what about a
4g64 block/ 4g64 crank/ stroker pistons/ 156mm rods. r/s of 1.56/1, thats what im thinking of making for my next motor. same displacement and a better r/s ratio then a stroked 4g63.

 

[Tallen]

what about a
4g64 block/ 4g64 crank/ stroker pistons/ 156mm rods. r/s of 1.56/1, thats what im thinking of making for my next motor. same displacement and a better r/s ratio then a stroked 4g63.

I second the 4G64.

 

[Goobdog]

Ive been looking for a 2.4 block but I cant find one local at the moment. Id like to get one soon because I want to get it to the machine shop and see what needs to be done to it etc. Ill be needing a good set of rods and some nitrous friendly pistons and maybe a new crank depending on what shape its in.

 

[swordfish]

We shift both my 2.4L long rod and the 2.3L stroker at 9K.

2.3L T66 P Trim, HKS 272's
2.4L SC61 P Trim HKS 272's

Both cars have the same head. The 2.3L car is 8.8:1 compression Eagle/JE combo and the 2.4L car is 10.0:1 Pauter/Ross combo. Both daily driven. Especially the 10.0:1 black car because its the only car I have other than my wifes.

We are currently working on 2 more cars. One is a RWD back half 1G and the other is street class 1G thats not so streetable. Both will have 2.3L engines.

You can spend all day theorizing on rod ratio and what not. The domestic crowd has proved the rod ratio isnt the be all end all. Look at some of the rod ratios those guys run on their high power street/street cars. It will scare you. If you want to spend time on something, spend it on cylinder filling and how to get the most into and out of each combustion cycle.

jeff

 

[Goobdog]

The whole reason I made this post is to see how to AVOID trying to shift at 9k. Even on a Shep or TRE tranny it doesnt sound like fun.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Get a 3052 or 3065, shift at 8k, and spray it if you need more

 

[swordfish]

The whole reason I made this post is to see how to AVOID trying to shift at 9k. Even on a Shep or TRE tranny it doesnt sound like fun.

Then I'll make it simple for you. If you dont want to shift at 9k, shift when you feel its appropriate. For all I care you can shift at 5k. Your turbo selection is going to determine when you shift. Not the engine. If you're running a 16G on a 2.3L its gonna be done about 5800. So feel free to shift until your heart is content. Been there, done that. On the other hand if you shift a T72 Q trim (our AWD drag car) at 7500 its going to fall out of boost and you'll be sitting there with your thumb in your ass waiting for it to spool unless you are hosing it.

If you wanna shift at the stock redline on a 2.3L or 2.4L, then the first turbo T61 P trim in a .58AR or the FP 3065 like Mirage2LTurbo suggest will be what you wanna stick with.

Both the Shep and TRE trannies are butter at 9k in case anyone else was wondering. We've got logs at 10k on the 1-2 with the Shep tranny.

jeff

 

[Al_Scrap_Iron]

4g63 bloc /4g64 crank, SCM 61, hks 272/272.

Shift at stock redline, 7500rpm. Next year I go with 8000rpm...

AL

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

4g63 bloc /4g64 crank, SCM 61, hks 272/272.

Shift at stock redline, 7500rpm. Next year I go with 8000rpm...

AL

Al_Scrap_Iron in what RPM your SCM61 gives its full boost, let say 20 psi?

 

[1fast97gsx]

I'm curious about that as well ... my 2.0 with an sc61 wasn't hitting 24 psi until 4800 or so

 

[Jonathan99GSX]

I'll echo swordfish's comments on ShepRacing trannys. They definitely shift like butter. The higher you rev, the smoother John's trannys shift. The only downside is that it seems to shift noticeably slower than stock below 3000 RPM (no clue why). Its all good though. The vastly faster shifts at anything over 3500 RPM more than offsets the slower low RPM shift action.


Globdog, there isn't anything magical or cursed about 2.3L 4g63 engines. They will provide the following compared to a 2.0L 4g63:

wear the cylinder bores faster
put considerably more stress on the rotating assembly for a given RPM
offer superior torque and drivability
provide quicker spoolup
generate more peak HP and TQ per RPM (until pumping / friction losses eclipse displacement gains over 7000-8000 RPM)

Your mechanical rev limit, just like with a 2.0L, is dependant on your pistons, rods, cams, and valve springs/retainers. Due to the longer stroke and shorter rod ratio, a 2.3L @ ~7200 RPM is very much like a 2.0L @ 8000 RPM.

Check where everyone else is shifting at with your configuration in 2.0L form and then subtract 800RPM to get a ballpark figure. With my Eagle / Wiesco combo I've set my AEM rev limit at 8250 RPM. Which is disappointingly low considering the valvetrain and tranny are good for 9500+ RPM.

 

[Al_Scrap_Iron]

20psi at 4000 , 5e gear...

Al

 

[gritsak]

i shift at around 7200ish but i have a completely stock head and cams

oh, t3/60-1 turbo...still good enough to go 11.3@124 on 21psi

 

[herostar]

I shift at 7200 rpm.

2.3L 60-1 stock head

20psi @ 3500 rpm