What am I dealing with here? [pics]

[gbrunko]

Hi I'm trying to figure out what I'm dealing with on my recently purchased 98 Eclipse. So far I've found out that the turbo is not stock. When I bought it I was told that the intake and exhaust piping were upgraded, but that's it. So I guess what I'd like to know is how far from stock is this thing, and I'd like to know if anyone sees any obvious problems. Here is a pic of the intake setup:

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I don't know what's going on with the duct-taped bit, but I'm guessing that's not ideal. Also I found this part loose in the back of the car. Can anyone tell me what it is, and where it's supposed to go?

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Oh yeah, also with that type of air filter, that is one of those that I need to clean and add oil to periodically, yes?

 

[T is for TURBO]

First picture shows an improperly vented turbo bypass valve (BOV). It should be recirculated to the intake snorkel, which is clearly capped off in that picture. The second picture is the stock 2g bypass valve with the re-circulation tube attached.

Recirculate the after market bypass valve and you should be golden

EDIT: I attached a photo for a little help

 

[SPYDERGSTTUNER]

Uhh yea that's kinda of a hack job between stock and aftermarket intake the part that connects to your maf sensor is stock but cut in half and had that shiny tube stuffed in there and connected to whatever turbo you have. Also the aftermarket bov isn't recirculated like it should be, that bov in the second pic is the stock bov with the recirculation elbow attached to it and should be connected from the bov back to your intake. I wouldn't advise running your car without recirculating your bov, oh and the filter looks like an auto parts air filter, copy of a k&n or an aem idk for sure if you oil those or not but seeing is the same style as k&n maybe search on Google or run yo your parts store and ask.

 

[gbrunko]

Thanks for the information. I'll try to connect the BOV using the hose from the original. If that doesn't fit I'm not sure what I'll try...maybe see if I can find a formed coolant hose with the right size and curves.

So far what I've learned seems to indicate that whoever made the mods to the car was not the most knowledgeable or thorough. Hopefully all the problems can be addressed and there aren't any really big ones yet to be discovered.

I don't know why I didn't think to check the air filter manufacturer's web site for information on maintenance, but once I did I got everything I needed, so thanks for that tip as well.

 

[BurrowZ]

Does the car have a boost gauge?

They hacked the upper intercooler pipe and attached an ebay pipe+bov with a coupler it looks like. That's going to be very hard to seal properly on the intercooler side of the piping. I would recommend getting/fabricating a boost leak tester and using it periodically to see if you are indeed getting a boost leak there.

Before you throw money at it though, check to make sure all maintenance has been done.

 

[mantega4g63]

That's like a $20 air filter from advanced auto parts, pretty sure they're not lifetime filters. I'd hardly call it an "upgraded intake" . Try a Apexi Power Intake filter if you choose to upgrade, they're the best according to reviews (even better than k&n). Recirculate the bov also first thing

 

[re-rx7]

Pricewise get a dry flow filter from AEM or something. The price difference isnt worth the Hp gained from a Apexi and they filter well enough. Also get a hose on the nipple on the side of the valve cover and connect it to the intake to help draw out Crankcase pressure.

 

[mantega4g63]

Pricewise get a dry flow filter from AEM or something. The price difference isnt worth the Hp gained from a Apexi and they filter well enough. Also get a hose on the nipple on the side of the valve cover and connect it to the intake to help draw out Crankcase pressure.

Looks to me it is already hooked up. I would get one of the old school inline fuel filters and put it in that line, they work great for being a $4 catch can. I focus more on how well the apexi filters the air, not the hp gain

 

[BLOHS7844]

Whatever you do, take it to someone who can rip things apart a little and tell you EXACTLY what was all done to the car. The person who sold it to you can be a very bad source of information, or very good. I was told by the person who sold it to me that it had a 14b turbo only to find out 6 months later that it was a 16g! It also had an ACT 2100 pressure plate. I bought a Walbro 190 fuel pump only to find out that I actually had an EVO 8 fuel pump, which actually flows a little more. I didn't know anything about DSM's and had a limited knowledge of cars in general when I bought it so I had no idea what I really had or what anything people said meant. I'm lucky enough to have a buddy whos a DSMer and enjoys working on cars so he knows more about my car than me in some regards.
So find a DSM person and, if necessary, throw them a couple bucks to fully look over your car a let them tell you exactly what you have and write that all down.
Also, DON'T OVER TIGHTEN ANYTHING, I ####ed my self over more than once from that

 

[Dsmkauai]

^^ He has the hose connected there for valve cover breather look closer.

 

[NHerron]

Well the engine hasn't been swapped so most likely original which is a good thing...maybe...make sure timing belt has been changed every 60k miles. You also have a nice strut bar obviously but at the same time probably the only good eBay item on the car because that BOV looks generic to me same with intake pipe

Can you take pictures of the Turbo setup? Did owner say 16g...14g

 

[gbrunko]

Can you take pictures of the Turbo setup? Did owner say 16g...14g

You can sort of see the turbo here. The owner didn't say anything about replacing the turbo, I just learned it is not original.

If that picture isn't clear enough I can take more. It's a hassle because the car is so low I have to jack it up to get in there, and it's so low I can't even get a jack under it. I have to jack up the rear on one side to get enough lift to get a jack under the front on the same side. Maybe I should just spring for a low-profile jack.

If I don't find anything too horrible and if I'm able to address whatever issues I discover I think un-lowering the car a bit may be in its future. Having the car make scraping sounds every time I hit a parking lot entrance apron or speed bump doesn't seem cool or fast to me.

 

[NHerron]

That's not a bad setup, looks like you have a few upgrades. SS line going to clutch slave cylinder, and SS oil feed line to turbo. Is the other end of the SS line attached to the cylinder head or near the alternator? Near the alternator would mean it's being fed from oil filter housing (good). The turbo doesn't look bad either, from what I can tell it's not an eBay knock off turbo judging by the wastegate rod. Standard Mitsubishi wastegates are non-adjustable where-as the eBay knock offs are adjustable via a coupling nut and two lock nuts on either side.

Since the J-pipe comes out on top, it's most likely a 16G. Try looking on the aluminum compressor housing for numbers that will identify it even further.

Here is a list which correspond to turbo model
49178-01(40)0: 14B
49178-01(41)0: Big 16G
49178-01(42)0: Big 16G
49178-01(45)0: Evo I Big 16G
49178-01(46)0: Evo II Big 16G
49178-01(47)0: EVO III 16G
49178-01(52)0: Small 16G

See this thread for more info
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/317933-evo-3-gt-turbo-serial-number.html

 

[gbrunko]

I don't see anything that matches those numbers. Here is the best picture I could get from up top:

 

[NHerron]

Look at the thread I linked you. Doesn't look like a real Mitsubishi Turbo. Mitsubishi Turbos do not say "Turbocharger" on them anywhere... I would take the intake pipe off ASAP and check for shaft play by wiggling the nut up and down in and out, as those eBay Turbos have a bad rep for quality. Sorry man. Do your research on if you should continue using it and you might note anything the member JusMX141 says. He's an excellent Turbo specialist. You could be okay using it but do your research first because I don't know much on them

 

[gbrunko]

Doesn't look like a real Mitsubishi Turbo.

Well damn.

I just keep finding out more bad stuff about this car. I don't think I'm at a point of needing to cut my losses and get rid of the thing but I'm starting to wonder just how much I'm going to have to spend to get this thing in shape.

Ah well worst case I have to start looking for another. Not a great first turbo experience so far but at least I'm learning what to look for, and look out for.

Edit: I will check for shaft play as soon as I can, but it might be next weekend. I'll report back when I know more.

 

[Aphix]

Its not as bad as you think man. I've picked up cars in worst shape. On the positive side, venting your BOV was atleast richening the A/F versus leaning you out. And I've been running an ebay 16g for almost two years since I bought it from someone who had previously ran it for I dont know how long. And even though that's a cheap spectre air filter, its a lot better than a lot of guys out there running NO filter.

You should fix those kinked turbo lines and check the shaft play, might need a 25 dollar rebuilt kit in the future. Pull the valve cover and get a look at your valvetrain to get an idea of how well oil was kept up, if theres dark spots or abrasions you can feel with a finger nail, it might not be in such great shape; but if they are relatively clear and smooth then things are looking good.

 

[turboglenn]

don't get all depressed about it, you're basically still sitting better than stock, all the stuff is so minor it's barelyw bworth mentioning other than to teach you about what it is and what parts are what.. put it this way, if you start over with a completely stock DSM you'll be in abot the same boat you are here but probably a little slower..

ebay turbos; although known to be 80% pre-mature failing units still put out good usefull boost/air, they still work iswhat i'm saying and it's better than the stock turbo that came on that car..

The BOV vented, even if you can't get it routed back, just tighten it to where it's not open at idle and you will only have a sall or pop when shifting here and there to worryu about, just routing it back in cleans up the runnign a good bit more in the eyes of those whop are reallyu picky about how theur car acts and runs and wanting it to behave like it does when stock.........

Just relax an learn, don't take all of this posts as saying "another bad mark agaisnt't the car" they are just observations not discredits, they are things that will be easily fixable and they didn't costmuch to be put on and can be replaced cheaply too and or used in the mean time until you can get your facts together about DSM's and the path to building one and make a plan of your own and decide what parts to buy.. sounds like you really need to read and learn about what each part is and what it does, and how it changes the performance of the vehicle in one way or another (don't just start asking "what part should i buy to go faster") Go read on websites specializing in DSM's bushur racing has tons of info and it's where i learned all my first bits about these cars some 11+ years ago

now, you know this is not all bad, you have a mission to go learn, when you come back, surprise us ith your gained knowledge and confidence that these items on yoru car are nothign to worry about

Glenn

 

[BLOHS7844]

Heres what you should do, look on craigslist for a 14b turbo for like $50 or less and send it into Turbo Lab to get rebuild and ported for MUCH cheaper than anyone else (and they do a damn good job). Text 276-952-7965. He's the owner of turbo lab. They also have rebuilt and ported turbos u can buy but I HIGHLY recommend at least talking to him first.

 

[EclipsedFLA]

you're in better shape the some on here! potential!!! good luck with it

 

[gbrunko]

Okay one more question...are these free spinning motors? Since I don't know anything about what maintenance was done or when on the car, I'm wondering if I need to replace the timing belt just to be safe.

 

[BurrowZ]

Okay one more question...are these free spinning motors? Since I don't know anything about what maintenance was done or when on the car, I'm wondering if I need to replace the timing belt just to be safe.

These are interference motors. Timing belts are a huge deal. If it snaps, you'll be lucky if you only trash the valves.

 

[9SECAWD]

timing belt isn't something i would worry about unless it looks like it needs replacing. Its a lot of work to replace just for the hell of it haha.

 

[JusMX141]

I don't see anything that matches those numbers. Here is the best picture I could get from up top:

Knockoff 20G. Sells for $250 or less brand new on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TD05-TD05H-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item588bd822bc&vxp=mtr

timing belt isn't something i would worry about unless it looks like it needs replacing. Its a lot of work to replace just for the hell of it haha.

I've never heard a more retarded statement in all of my life.

All timing belts *look* fine right before they break....even the ones that have 200K on them. Keep in mind 99% of DSM timing belts are fully concealed behind covers, so it's impossible to tell if anything's wrong until it fails. You can pull the top cover and look at about 14" of the belt, but 85% of it is still beneath the other covers....so who knows if it's chunking or already has some cogs missing.

From my standpoint it's a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to change the timing belt and components if you're unsure of their mileage or condition than it is to replace the head.

 

[9SECAWD]

I've seen people run knock off turbos with no problems, but i've also seen them blow up as soon as they see any kind of boost. I personally ran one for a month or so at about 19psi and the nut fell off the compressor wheel . I also had another one that i rebuilt with an actual garret rebuilt kit and it lasted quite awhile and didn't give any problems at 20+ lbs of boost. Like others have said, if the turbo and intake are the only problems you have with the car, your not doing to bad, it could be a lot worse.