What am I dealing with here? [pics]

[gbrunko]

Hi I'm trying to figure out what I'm dealing with on my recently purchased 98 Eclipse. So far I've found out that the turbo is not stock. When I bought it I was told that the intake and exhaust piping were upgraded, but that's it. So I guess what I'd like to know is how far from stock is this thing, and I'd like to know if anyone sees any obvious problems. Here is a pic of the intake setup:

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I don't know what's going on with the duct-taped bit, but I'm guessing that's not ideal. Also I found this part loose in the back of the car. Can anyone tell me what it is, and where it's supposed to go?

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Oh yeah, also with that type of air filter, that is one of those that I need to clean and add oil to periodically, yes?

 

[NHerron]

+1 For Justin^ (identifing at the drop of a hat)

As to 9SECAWD's comment, if you don't know the history of the belt (when it was last changed) you could be living on borrowed time even if it doesn't look bad. And there is plenty of info to be had on this website to make it a do-able DIY project that wouldn't cost you more than $150 on parts

 

[9SECAWD]

A timing belt isn't an easy job for 90% of people, and i don't care how many websites have DIY info on them, for a job like that you still have to have a good bit of mechanical know how and a lot of spare time. An upper timing cover can be removed in no time.

 

[JusMX141]

An upper timing cover can be removed in no time.

Explain in detail exactly what removing the upper cover and exposing 14" of the belt, cog-side down, is going to tell you about it's condition and mileage.

 

[9SECAWD]

What i meant was inspect it for obvious signs of damage. Tears, cracks, wear from a bad tensioner, things like that. My fault for not being more specific.

 

[bryanwheat]

A timing belt isn't an easy job for 90% of people, and i don't care how many websites have DIY info on them, for a job like that you still have to have a good bit of mechanical know how and a lot of spare time. An upper timing cover can be removed in no time.

You think that a timing belt is hard to change, pulling the head and having the valves replaced is 20 times more work. If you don't have the time, money or know how to change the timing belt and components than sell the car and buy a push rod engine.

 

[gbrunko]

I have quite a bit of mechanical know-how so that's not an issue. It's just these cars I'm not familiar with. I'll plan on doing the timing belt some time soon.

I tried to use the hose from the original BOV to connect to the one in there now, and it's not even close. I guess I'll be heading to the corner auto parts store and begging them to let me behind the counter to pick through their radiator hose selection for a close match. Does anyone know of a better solution for this?

I'm trying to get the car through state inspection here but the check engine light is on and it won't pass with that. The inspector pulled the code for me and it said the bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor was bad. I replaced that over the weekend but the light is still on. Is it possible that the BOV venting to atmosphere could cause this? The car does idle rough and seems to be running rich if the smell is any indication.

If I can't find a hose for the BOV I'm not sure what to do, other than maybe try to pull the entire intake system up to the turbo from a stock DSM in a junkyard. I may need to replace that BOV. The outlet on it seems to be made for venting to atmosphere rather than having a hose attached. I may be able to get a hose to seal on it anyway but I don't think that's a good long-term solution.

 

[NHerron]

Which code was it specifically, there looks to be a few
P0130
P0136
P0141

 

[gbrunko]

Which code was it specifically, there looks to be a few
P0130
P0136
P0141

It's not 130, that's sensor 1. As for which of the other two, I'll have to wait until I get home so I can look at the printout. I'm thinking it was 136. The guy told me I'd have to drive it a bit after fixing the problem before the code would clear itself. Maybe I'm just being impatient. I drove it for a solid half hour this morning but I don't know if that's enough or not.

I'm going to go ahead and replace the BOV. Can anyone recommend a replacement? I don't need anything special, I'm not running a huge turbo or whatever else would require a "high performance" BOV. Just something of good quality. I could put an OEM one back on there but I didn't like the look of that plastic thing.

I did some searches on here but didn't find anything really. I found a page with links to OEM replacement parts but nothing equivalent for non-OEM stuff. Doing a regular web search brings up some really expensive stuff, and some "universal" ones that are pretty cheap. Is there some reason I should stay away from something like this?

 

[Tiki2777]

It's not 130, that's sensor 1. As for which of the other two, I'll have to wait until I get home so I can look at the printout. I'm thinking it was 136. The guy told me I'd have to drive it a bit after fixing the problem before the code would clear itself. Maybe I'm just being impatient. I drove it for a solid half hour this morning but I don't know if that's enough or not.

I'm going to go ahead and replace the BOV. Can anyone recommend a replacement? I don't need anything special, I'm not running a huge turbo or whatever else would require a "high performance" BOV. Just something of good quality. I could put an OEM one back on there but I didn't like the look of that plastic thing.

I did some searches on here but didn't find anything really. I found a page with links to OEM replacement parts but nothing equivalent for non-OEM stuff. Doing a regular web search brings up some really expensive stuff, and some "universal" ones that are pretty cheap. Is there some reason I should stay away from something like this?

Yea, don't buy that. That's an off-brand bov just like the ones you find on ebay. BOV's in and of themselves aren't really cheap, unless you get a 1st gen eclipse bov, those are damn good and rather cheap. (the off brand ones have shit diaphrams)

 

[NHerron]

That BOV you linked won't work because it isn't the correct flange that mates to the IC piping. Problem with generic types of BOV's is mainly quality, its a hit or miss type of a deal and they often leak at low boost pressures. You can covert to the 1g BOV although would need the flange adapter -but is a very cheap alternate. If you can get an EVO 8/9 BOV, they are a direct bolt on for 2g's and reliable. Price is usually pretty high on EVO components though

 

[gbrunko]

Well I figured I'd go with a 1G BOV but I went and looked at the car again and the original mount for it is gone. It looks like the BOV in there is a part of the pipe it's attached to, so to replace it I'll have to replace that pipe as well. My thinking is I'll try to get that whole section from a junkyard.

Would that piping from a 1G work? That way I could do away with need for an adapter for the 1G BOV.

 

[NHerron]

Picture attached

The one on the left is the 1G BOV, but notice the black portion on bottom. That is an adapter so it can fit into the 2G system since the 1G in stock form bolts onto a metal flange with 2 bolts on either side

On the right is the stock 2G BOV, this is what they are supposed to look like, they slip into the hose flange and tighten up with a clamp. So your not missing anything besides the acutal OEM BOV itself

Just search 1G BOV adapter and you will find ways to attach the 1G BOV to the 2G pipe system

Oh and if you feel like reading, this is a good thread discussing 2G vs EVO BOV's
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-10-psi-so-should-i-buy-crushed-1g-bov-2.html

 

[gbrunko]

Thanks for that picture, it answered some questions I had. Here is a close-up of what I have:

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Also I checked my paperwork and my system was showing both codes, 136 and 141.

Edit: I don't see any way to replace that BOV without getting a replacement for the pipe as well. Will a 1G pipe work? I might even get lucky and get one with the valve on it.

Edit2: What is that pipe properly called? I want to make sure I'm asking for the right thing when I call junkyards.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Upper intercooler pipe or "UIP"

Looks like it is going to the stock sidemount location so make sure not to buy an upper front mount one.

 

[fonzi90Tsi]

Correct me if I an wring but our stock piping will not work with yours because 2 g piping is larger in diameter than the 1g piping.

 

[Latch]

I got a flange for 1G b.o.v. to fit directly on stock 2G upper piping. I no longer use it, but it was a good fit.

Btw, let me know if you want it, i can sell it for a cheap price.

 

[NHerron]

Ah I see, yeah your pipe has been chopped. This picture shows what it looks like stock, it measure 35MM inside and uses a clamp to hold BOV in place

As for your codes, they are electrical faults. They are also generic OBD codes so you can find more info on them via google but I attached 2 pics from the FSM

 

[gbrunko]

Looks like no place in town has that part. It seems like all parts related to turbos get snatched up pretty quick. Big surprise, eh? Trying not to get too frustrated here, I'll figure something out...


Edit: I ordered a 1G BOV mount plate and the BOV. I figure I'll just cut the existing BOV off the pipe and weld the mount plate on there, then bolt the BOV up.

 

[gbrunko]

Well so far so good. I finally got in there to check for play at the nut. I couldn't feel any shaft play pushing in and out, and a barely discernible amount in the up-down direction. Hopefully that's a good sign. Is there anything else I can check to help me to determine how much life I might have left in that turbo?

I haven't gotten my new BOV in yet...hopefully I can take care of that this week.

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[NHerron]

Sounds like a good sign to me! Journal bearing turbos tend to have a tad bit of side to side play since oil is supporting the shaft during operation. But too much is of course bad. Can you shine a flashlight to see the condition of blades and if the wheel has rubbed the housing at all? Also, does the car smoke bad? Where is the oil feed line coming from?

 

[gbrunko]

Okay I finally got my BOV sorted out. I wasn't able to do what I originally planned, which was to cut the old BOV off the pipe and weld on a new flange, because as it turns out the old pipe is aluminum, and I'm not equipped to weld aluminum. So I ended up fabricating a new pipe. I went to a local metal supply shop that caters to individuals and small orders to get the metal I needed. They didn't have the larger pipe size I needed. However it was very close to 2 1/2", so I went to an exhaust shop and got some 2 1/2" exhaust pipe and used that. Here are the parts and the finished product:

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It may not be pretty, but it works.

To connect back to the intake I went to a local auto parts store and they were nice enough to let me behind the counter to troll through their hose selection. I picked the one with the most turns in it that was the right diameter, hoping that at least one section of it would have what I needed. I got lucky. Here is the hose and the finished, installed product.

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[NHerron]

Whoa nice job man! Exactly what most people do is the radiator hose trick
Looks like your golden, how about the trouble codes?

 

[rEclipserGST]

Best move you could make. 1g bov's are baller. Check all fluids, replace worn damaged hoses.

I would get the codes erased. Drive the car for at least 50 - 100 miles. Then any reoccurring trouble CEL's will pop up again. I like to do that when I fix things here & there.

 

[gbrunko]

I had someone with proper diagnostic equipment look at the car. It looks like the catalytic converter is bad, or rather more likely someone hollowed it out. That won't pass inspection here so I'll be replacing that soon. Then I'll see.

 

[Lehman_285]

Do a boost leak test I had to weld mine like that to and found out the weld leaks and can't get it to stop not mater how many times I re weld it so now have to get a new pipe