Spyder Waste gate issue code P1104

[Master Z]

Hi, I have a ‘97 Spyder GST. Yesterday I was driving with it and my car started lacking of boost when I floored the gas. My turbo pressure was at the top but my rpm would’nt go higher than 3k-3k5 and then it would drop instantely and my car was driving bad. When I came back home, I checked the code and it was P1104 "Turbocharger waste gate solenoid". I’m new to DSM community and it’s my first turbocharged car, should I change both solenoid and the waste gate? If so, is it with only OEM Mitsubishi parts or they are universal? Has anyone had the same issue as me and what did you do to fix it. Won’t drive my car till I fix it.

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[pauleyman]

Hi, I have a ‘97 Spyder GST. Yesterday I was driving with it and my car started lacking of boost when I floored the gas. My turbo pressure was at the top but my rpm would’nt go higher than 3k-3k5 and then it would drop instantely and my car was driving bad. When I came back home, I checked the code and it was P1104 "Turbocharger waste gate solenoid". I’m new to DSM community and it’s my first turbocharged car, should I change both solenoid and the waste gate? If so, is it with only OEM Mitsubishi parts or they are universal? Has anyone had the same issue as me and what did you do to fix it. Won’t drive my car till I fix it.

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you have much bigger problems than the wastegate solenoid. The only function of the solenoid is to lower boost some if the ECU feels it is necessary. This code is at the bottom of the list of issues.

p1500

2G - P1500 General FR Terminal Circuit Malfunction

The other day I was driving my car and it bogged out and shut down. I tried cranking it and it woud crank but did not fire. I got my trailer and towed it to my shop and scanned the code. It came up P1500 General Terminal Circuit Malfunction. I've been trying to figure out the problem. I...

www.dsmtuners.com

knock, coolant and o2 at least do a visual inspection of the harness and see if things are plugged in correctly. Actually that goes for the wastegate solenoid also. Did you just get this car?

There is also a possibility you just lost an alternator and the other codes aren't real.
Tell us the whole story.

 

[Master Z]

Got this car a month ago. Drove it about 700 miles and had a lot of fun with it, everything was fine and car was good, changed my coolant a week ago - it was full and there’s no leak.

And I might be in more serious troubles than I thought with what you’re saying. I thought the solenoid was controlling when the waste gaste is opening/closing. By changing it, I was hoping that it might be just this.

Whole story? Car bought a month ago, ‘97 GST Spyder, it’s a vga and was imported to my country in 2002 ( I have full carfax and historic) One thing that I know is that ABS was deleted during the reconstruction, previous owner was an old man who got it for 12 years, he had 18k in repairs and he show me all the bills and everything he did on the car during these years.

Car is perfeclty rust-free it’s impressive, original turbo and engine with 124k miles (now 124k700). Bone stock, even the air filter is stock. Was running like a new before it happenned. I went on a 100 miles ride the day it happenned, and at the half of it I started to see that my boost was weird, but car was still starting and driving good, only issue was accelerating it wasn’t as powerful as it was before.

For coolant code, I don’t have no leaks and my engine doesn’t overheat. For my alternator only issue I saw with it was my car was showing me that I was driving +20km/h than what I was in reality (for example it showed me I was driving 100 but it’s 80). Car still starts great and no issue with lights or anything.

Was thinking of taking out the belt of the alternator, put break cleaner on it and put it back into the alternator to see if it’s still okay. For the engine knock sensor I was thinking of changing it as fast as I can. What do you suggest me? What should I do first and is it as bad as you think with these clarifications?

 

[pauleyman]

Got this car a month ago. Drove it about 700 miles and had a lot of fun with it, everything was fine and car was good, changed my coolant a week ago - it was full and there’s no leak. And I might be in more serious troubles than I thought with what you’re saying. I thought the solenoid was controlling when the waste gaste is opening/closing. By changing it, I was hoping that it might be just this. Whole story? Car bought a month ago, ‘97 GST Spyder, it’s a vga and was imported to my country in 2002 ( I have full carfax and historic) One thing that I know is that ABS was deleted during the reconstruction, previous owner was an old man who got it for 12 years, he had 18k in repairs and he show me all the bills and everything he did on the car during these years. Car is perfeclty rust-free it’s impressive, original turbo and engine with 124k miles (now 124k700). Bone stock, even the air filter is stock. Was running like a new before it happenned. I went on a 100 miles ride the day it happenned, and at the half of it I started to see that my boost was weird, but car was still starting and driving good, only issue was accelerating it wasn’t as powerful as it was before. For coolant code, I don’t have no leaks and my engine doesn’t overheat. For my alternator only issue I saw with it was my car was showing me that I was driving +20km/h than what I was in reality (for example it showed me I was driving 100 but it’s 80). Car still starts great and no issue with lights or anything. Was thinking of taking out the belt of the alternator, put break cleaner on it and put it back into the alternator to see if it’s still okay. For the engine knock sensor I was thinking of changing it as fast as I can. What do you suggest me? What should I do first and is it as bad as you think with these clarifications?

Its not bad. You just need repairs. Start with alternator. Make sure its charging correctly. In the process you will disconnect battery and reset codes. See if they come back. Do the visual inspections I mentioned. What is your mechanical skill level?

 

[Master Z]

you have much bigger problems than the wastegate solenoid. The only function of the solenoid is to lower boost some if the ECU feels it is necessary. This code is at the bottom of the list of issues.

p1500

2G - P1500 General FR Terminal Circuit Malfunction

The other day I was driving my car and it bogged out and shut down. I tried cranking it and it woud crank but did not fire. I got my trailer and towed it to my shop and scanned the code. It came up P1500 General Terminal Circuit Malfunction. I've been trying to figure out the problem. I...

www.dsmtuners.com

knock, coolant and o2 at least do a visual inspection of the harness and see if things are plugged in correctly. Actually that goes for the wastegate solenoid also. Did you just get this car?

There is also a possibility you just lost an alternator and the other codes aren't real.
Tell us the whole story.

Forgot t

Its not bad. You just need repairs. Start with alternator. Make sure its charging correctly. In the process you will disconnect battery and reset codes. See if they come back. Do the visual inspections I mentioned. What is your mechanical skill level?

Thought my car was cooked with what you was saying To be honest I looked for months and months trying to find a clean one in good shape it was a pain in the ass. I knew the reputation of these cars before buying it, I think mine is in way much better shape than most of those I saw while searching. I looked for a 97-99 to get the 7 bolts 4g63t just to be sure that I don’t have to deal with crankwalk of the 6 bolts one.

In mecanic, I’m new. I’m 18 and I bought this car cause it was my dream car and wanted to learn mecanic. I have almost all tools at home so the real issue are my skills. Might sound pathetic but I did coolant flush last week and it was my first time doing it and was proud of myself it went well We all start somewhore. Know a bit of the basics, oil changes, solenoid and sensors replacements on other cars that were more recent.

But my eclipse is my first turbo car and I’m planning on keeping it clean and alive as long as I can. Probably take her to garage to fix A/C leak so my alternator doesn’t get worse than it already is. But what I said with it about taking out the strap and put break cleaner on it, let it dry and then put it back right in place and see how it is, is it a good idea? Never worked on an alternator before, tbh I don’t even know how it works

 

[pauleyman]

Forgot t

Thought my car was cooked with what you was saying To be honest I looked for months and months trying to find a clean one in good shape it was a pain in the ass. I knew the reputation of these cars before buying it, I think mine is in way much better shape than most of those I saw while searching. I looked for a 97-99 to get the 7 bolts 4g63t just to be sure that I don’t have to deal with crankwalk of the 6 bolts one.

In mecanic, I’m new. I’m 18 and I bought this car cause it was my dream car and wanted to learn mecanic. I have almost all tools at home so the real issue are my skills. Might sound pathetic but I did coolant flush last week and it was my first time doing it and was proud of myself it went well We all start somewhore. Know a bit of the basics, oil changes, solenoid and sensors replacements on other cars that were more recent.

But my eclipse is my first turbo car and I’m planning on keeping it clean and alive as long as I can. Probably take her to garage to fix A/C leak so my alternator doesn’t get worse than it already is. But what I said with it about taking out the strap and put break cleaner on it, let it dry and then put it back right in place and see how it is, is it a good idea? Never worked on an alternator before, tbh I don’t even know how it works

Hold on there. You're getting ahead of yourself.
I have questions. How does ac affect alternator? When you changed coolant what all did you unhook? Go back over your work. Code for coolant - there are 2 sensors: one for gauge and one that feeds data to ecu. Ecu is the important one.
The crankwalk issues are not 6 bolt.
90 to 92 is 6 bolt. 93 94 is 1g 7 bolt..95 to 97 is 2g 7 bolt. These are the ones that statistically have problems. 98 99 is 2g 7 bolt split thrust bearing. Those supposedly solved the thrust bearing problem.

Ask questions, research etc before you just jump in.

Take the alternator off and have it tested at the local auto parts store.

I would also not use brake clean on the alternator. Use an electrically safe solvent.CRC QD cleaner comes to mind.

 

[Master Z]

Hold on there. You're getting ahead of yourself.
I have questions. How does ac affect alternator? When you changed coolant what all did you unhook? Go back over your work. Code for coolant there are 2 sensors. One for gauge and one that feeds data to ecu. Ecu is the important one.
The crankwalk issues are not 6 bolt.
90 to 92 is 6 bolt. 93 94 is 1g 7 bolt..95 to 97 is 2g 7 bolt. These are the ones that statistically have problems. 98 99 is 2g 7 bolt split thrust bearing. Those supposedly solved the thrust bearing problem.

Ask questions, research etc before you just jump in.

Take the alternator off and have it tested at the local auto parts store

Hold on there. You're getting ahead of yourself.
I have questions. How does ac affect alternator? When you changed coolant what all did you unhook? Go back over your work. Code for coolant there are 2 sensors. One for gauge and one that feeds data to ecu. Ecu is the important one.
The crankwalk issues are not 6 bolt.
90 to 92 is 6 bolt. 93 94 is 1g 7 bolt..95 to 97 is 2g 7 bolt. These are the ones that statistically have problems. 98 99 is 2g 7 bolt split thrust bearing. Those supposedly solved the thrust bearing problem.

Ask questions, research etc before you just jump in.

Take the alternator off and have it tested at the local auto parts store.

Got my car to the garage to repair A/C, turns out it only needed liquid (in french we say "frion" but idk what it is in english). When I took my car I saw a frion leak and it was on my engine bay but tbh idk how it ended up on my alternator but it did, it’s all green now. Thought it wouldn’t do any damage and car was still runing great without A/C and to me it’s not a big deal I just want everything to work on my car. When I changed my coolant, I’ve only flushed radiator cause I’ve been told by some 20+ years DSMers to not flush the one in my engine cause I could fck things up in it. Any tips to know before trying anything with the alternator?

 

[pauleyman]

Nope. Pull it and have it tested.
YOu're saying you got green dye on the alternator? If thats the case likely one of the ac lines in close proximity has a leak. Needs to be fixed or your new ac charge will just leak out again.
Again go look at the harness for coolant sensor at the radiator cap/thermostat housing and see if everything is good. Same for o2 sensor plug in same location.