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Vrsf throttle body elbow problems

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onefast2gdsm

15+ Year Contributor
866
6
Aug 30, 2010
millersburg, Pennsylvania
I have a huge leak at the throttle body and its due to me not being able to tighten one bolt on the throttle body. I have no clearance to get a wrench or socket on it. I tried using a throttle body bolt in that location but the curve of the elbow won't let it fit, so I had to use a stud. How can I fix the problem of not being able to tighten the nut?
 
When I had my VRSF elbow, I used a socket on all of them except the front/bottom. That one I used a wrench on, and worked perfectly.
 
I don't think the ratchet will fit on the head, as it is a really tight fit between that and the pipe. HOWEVER, harbor freight has a set of stubby wrenches for mad cheap, that's what I used for mine.
 
thats not the particular one I have, and to be fair, I have the SSAC version of that TB elbow. It fits, but its very tight. I have to do the front/bottom nut before any of the others to have enough play to get it on there.
 
I believe I was having a similar issue with my VRs elbow as well, and I think I had a spare elbow that fit just a little better but wasnt perfect either. I still kind of rounded out the bottom front hole just enough to where I could fit the bolt (not the stud) through. I just use my fingers to get it snug to the elbow then a regular wrench to get it that last bit tight.
 
Got it. Had to customize a 12mm stubby wrench. I will post a pic of it later if anyone's interested

Waiting for pic due to me having the same exact problem. Lack of clearance :banghead:. Mini 12mm wrench is what I been used. The nut I used has a side that is shimming? My wrench just slips when I attempt to tighten on that side :notgood:
 
Its easy. Take off the sensors in the way and the fuel line from the fuel rail then it will give you clearance to that bottom bolt. No special tool needed. Just a open end wrench will do. The fuel line going to the fuel rail only has 2 bolts. That's how I did mines
 
I wonder why they made a thread for such an easy task.

Clearance Issues. I did a "mini rebuild" recently & cleaned up a ton of stuff. I'm moving to a 91-94 tb due to issues.

Here are some clearance pix. I can EASILY remove a few things to have more room, still not enough room.
 

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I was able to tighten mine with no problems. I just did the hard to reach one first by pulling the elbow off a little and started the nut with my hand and then I just used the closed end of the wrench and tightened it up. It was hard for me to do it while I was standing on the passenger side of the car but it was easier standing in front of the car. Hope this helps.
 
I ended up just buying a straight flange for the TB as well as a 90* coupler. Was worth the time & money spent as my car performs better already. Fixed a boost leak that I have had... probably SINCE I have owned the fmic kit. Had to cut the pipe, but who cares. No boost leak is awesome.

It is quite ridiculous to have that much trouble tightening a bolt that you may want to remove later in life. Too stressful. Check out my pix chix :cool:
 

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I'd put it on and snug the bolts down than mark the bottom stud where it is flush with the nut, than remove elbow, thread the nut back on, and cut the stud. From there you can back the nut off and it will repair the threads where you cut it. If you do this than you will be able to get the closed end of the wrench on it.
 
You could also take out the studs and replace all four with allen bolts of the same length and thread. It looks great and you can easily reach it with a long thin allen key.
 
You could also take out the studs and replace all four with allen bolts of the same length and thread. It looks great and you can easily reach it with a long thin allen key.

The problem with that is that you can't get a bolt to go thru that bottom hole because the pipe is in the way. If you could get a bolt in there than a normal hex head bolt would be a better option.
 
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