The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Vented hoods...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Wobble

20+ Year Contributor
726
0
Jan 2, 2003
In the interest of cooling the engine bay im thinking of either:

A: Buying a vented CF hood

B: cutting and doing my own hood..


for A what are some NICE hoods.. nothing ricy or wild, but something with a heat extractor setup.. perferable a symmetrical shape would be best but I just wanna see some hoods... it will prolly be painted aswell to match the car..


for B: who has done their own hood? it seems straighforeward and simple enough, I just want to get a nice clean and sleek look aswell, something that goes with the lines of the vehicle.. nothing outlandish.. I figure i could cut and put trim with wire mesh (as seems most commonly done that way) with little trouble.

gimme some links, gimme some pics.. gimme some ideas..


It seems to me there is no real downside to a vented hood, lets the bay breath and promotes better airflow through the radiator and all that good stuff.. the only thing i see people complain about is rain.. but I really doubt thats a major issue at all..
 
For answer "B", which is also alot cheaper, goto www.CarbonTrix.com they have a couple different styles of vents and in different widths and lengths. Most of all you can get them in Fiberglass or Carbon Fiber..prices are good too..Carbon Fiber one is like $89.

P.s. not to mention they also sell Naca ducts which benefit directing air to certain areas.(i.e. Oil cooler,brakes,intake,etc.)

Hope this will help~
 
hmm, the ones on the stocker are pretty nice, a little small but i see how they didnt want to cut into the hood structuring.. i might go that way but slightly larger on the holes.. seems like a good way to do it.
 
already have fluidyne, and yes.. the do help in cooling.. they allow the engine bay to breate and reduce underhood temps and prevent pressure buildup too allowing air to flow better through the radiator..
 
Raise the rear of the hood away from the seals or vent it that way. You can get plenty of air in the problem is getting it out. Put the vents back by the windshield to the side and set them up to let air out. avoid the vortex area where you have high pressures.
 
BOTH of the eclipses (the 1g and 2g) in this recent street car chalenge had vented hoods, and were build by tunners we all know.

What do you say abotu that? I dont think it is a co-incidence OMG
 
WOW

If you think about it the hood vents have to help.. they can't not help or hurt by any means. Think about it.. if you have holes that allow air into the engine bay.. how is that not helping?! the air has only one place to go while your driving and that is IN the engine bay. come on..
 
Hot air rises, when the hood has no vents it tends to act as a cap, and hot air builds up. With a vent the hottest gas can escape from the engine bay. It's simple thermodynamics you learn in grade school. The placement over the exhaust manifold and turbo only makes sense, because that is the hottest place in the engine bay.
 
I don't have actual proof, but one of my friends back in utah always had big overheating issues when he installed his fmic.

We even had 4 fans on it 2 pulling to pushing with no luck.
He finally got irritated enough that he took a grinder and cut a 10x3 hole in the hood right above the turbocharger.

It did the trick, he went from creeping upto 250F to never rising above 215F which is still a little on the warm side. But I think his waterpump may be on the fritz.
But it definitely helped.

The only downside is when its raining and you stop at a light or something. You end up with alot of steam and hissing.
 
Originally posted by dsmturboawd
this is like the 4th thread ive argued about this. im not doing it again.

believe and ignore what you want.

And apparently, you have yet to learn what is right.

When the air enters the front of the car at speed, it speeds through the radiator, and pulls heat out of the coolant. Now, it is important to note that at speed above about 40-50 mph, the fans are no longer able to increase airflow.

Then, where does the air go? It has to escape under the car. That's no an easy path, and that is not a good area for the air to escape to.

If you add a vent like the one at carbontrix, then you get a MUCH different situation. The air passing over the top of the vent creates a low pressure zone to the stagnant air inside the engine bay, and pulls the hot air out.

If you have a vent like this, stick your hand out the sunroof. You can feel the difference in temperature just moving your hand around.

Thermodynamics says it will work. Race teams say it works. Mitsubishi says it works. Should I go on?
 
Originally posted by kpt4321
And apparently, you have yet to learn what is right.

When the air enters the front of the car at speed, it speeds through the radiator, and pulls heat out of the coolant. Now, it is important to note that at speed above about 40-50 mph, the fans are no longer able to increase airflow.

Then, where does the air go? It has to escape under the car. That's no an easy path, and that is not a good area for the air to escape to.

If you add a vent like the one at carbontrix, then you get a MUCH different situation. The air passing over the top of the vent creates a low pressure zone to the stagnant air inside the engine bay, and pulls the hot air out.

If you have a vent like this, stick your hand out the sunroof. You can feel the difference in temperature just moving your hand around.

Thermodynamics says it will work. Race teams say it works. Mitsubishi says it works. Should I go on?

I just want to point out that the vents are facing backwards not forwards on the good ones :D. If you want it to look like a ram air you have the wrong idea....it should kinda look like a scoop facing the wrong way for best results. Also placing them just in front of the strut towers is a good place as it clears 75% of the engine bay and doesn't inpeede into the high pressure area at the beginning of the windshield. Yes this will increase the temps of the air going over the crew cap.

The cars are able to get plenty of air in typically they can't get it out.
 
Originally posted by doodie
With water getting into the exhaust manifold or turbo all the time like that, wouldn't they crack really easy?
Not really, in the rain you get plenty straight in through the radiator(s) anyway, especially in traffic (such as passing a big rig). You just don't see it steaming because it's leaving out under the car and being diffused by your own tire spray.
 
Originally posted by dsmturboawd
really? ill be waiting for your proof.

some guy did a before and after comparison using either the oil or water temp as a referrence and it did make a difference. Actually quite the difference. I am trying to look it up, I remember it was a very nice clean looking dark 1g with racing seats, roll cage, wheels etc.

I would say the best proof would be the Mitsubishi EVO, that thing was built to handle all kinda of abuse in the worst heat and all the EVO's come with vented hoods. I dont think mitsubishi would go threw the hassle of designing a vented hood if it didnt serve a purpose. I personally have seen it work, on a hot day in the summer once the fans kick in you can see all the hot air escaping threw the vents. Thats standing still let alone driving.

The only hoods that I know of that vent are the Invader, EVO style and two others.

I Like the EVO style hoods, but the one for the 2g eclipses buldge out alot to clear the cam gears which kinda makes it too big for my taste.
 
Well, i guess im gonna try and do vents on my own hood, I cant seem to find a CF hood that i like really so i guess this is my best idea.. I just want the holes bigger than the ones already posted though.. trying to figure out how.. im sure partially cutting into the "bracing" underhood wont cause any probs and i have the tools to do it available.. just trying to think of the best shape for the holes.. will prolly just do a shape simplar to the one posted, only bigger..
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top