Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[gurmanator]

pivot ball could have broke,slave cylinder bad,master cylinder bad.usually they will leak if they are going bad.

 

[rbwtrans]

Don't forget to check the small bolt under the starter. If this thing comes out or gets loose, then the trans just pulls away from the block instead of disengaging the clutch.

 

[ryan90]

so I am gathering from your responses that this is not normal and something is leaking.

 

[toofast82]

Definitely check the bolt as well, that can cause a cracked ear on the block (I know). Obviously check the usual stuff like line, slave, master, cluch adjustment. Good luck

 

[ryan90]

it was in adjustment before i pressed on the slave. it's freakin weird. could it just be possible that there was air somewhere near the bleeder valve thing making the slave not self adjust but affecting normal function until i pressed the slave in forcing the air back into the system?

 

[toofast82]

its possible something could have gotten messed up with the slave from playing with it. at least air if youre lucky

 

[ryan90]

master cylinder is leaking at the firewall.....

I guess putting that backwards pressure in this cold just popped the seals i guess. It only has like 20k miles on it though which sucks.

The slave looks fine tho, I could not poull the grommet/sleeve off enough to take a thourough look but i got a lil peak in and it looks fine.

nothing else looks bad.

once i solve this I am going to put in an SS line too.

 

[toofast82]

I would recommend replacing the slave with the master for piece of mind. Dont buy a cheap autozone one, it will not last at all! If you hold a autozone and carquest slave, the carquest is alot heavier as well. Remember if you cheap out now, this part may fail somewhere far and the tow will be quite costly

 

[90TalonDDH]

Hey all I have a 90 TSI Talon and i just installed a new tranny, Fidanza 4.3 clutch and Fidanza lightwieght aluminum flywheel. Now I have also installed a new slave cylinder and checked all my lines for leaks but i am still not getting any pedal when i bleed the system. I have pulled the master cylinder off and have checked and it all looks fine and i am also bleeding it from both sides but still seeing small bubbles (very small) by the way master cylinder seal looked ok but am goona look into replacing it as well what else am i missing please help and thanks for any help in advance.

 

[RyAn007]

I have heard of the need for a longer slave cylinder rod, which would mean you are moving the rod out of the slave but it is not moving the clutch fork enough to engage th clutch so it would see to be that you had no resistance, so check that. Other than that are you properly bleeding your lines, from the slave cylinder on the bleeder vlave by loosening it with an i believe 10mm wrench? And you have to run a spare vac line from that vlave into a gatorade or soda or whatver bottle 1/2 filled with brake fluid until the bubbles sop comign out of the vac hose?

 

[90TalonDDH]

Well I have bled with a vac attached and ran into a bottle with fluid in it. But I can push the slave cylinder rod down with my hand so its like there is almost no pressure in the system at all does it matter if the cap is on or off when i am bleeding the clutch?

 

[killerclown1984]

I had to replace my master cylinder and had the same problem. I ended up haveing to buy another new master cylinder.

 

[JustinBondar]

I replaced my clutch the other day with a 3.2 fidanza kit and also replaced my fidanza flywheel inserts. Before I took the tranny out the car shifted fine. This is my first clutch on a 4g63 but not my first clutch so I kind of know what I'm doing. Oh I also replaced the slave rod with an extended rod. I put the car all back together and bleed the system I even tried adjusting the pedal height and free play I can't get it to go into gear when it is on. If I start it in gear it will move and does start but once I yank it into nuetral, it won;t go into any other gear unless you shut off the car and do the procedure again. Oh and the reason I say yank it into nuetral is because it seems like you have to pull it out of gear rather than just press the clutch and its will voluntarily come out of gear. Oh and I think my t-case is broken I was wondering if that may have anything to do with my problem?

 

[Tyeler18]

sounds too me like a dragging clutch... i cant think off the top of my head what it is that needs to be changed

is there a retaining clip on your slave cylinder arm? sometimes there are and that keeps the arm from moving properly, check the lever arm to see if its moving

 

[JustinBondar]

as far as the slave rod it self I can see it move through its cycle when when someone presses the clutch in and out ect. it seems like that is working fine. It doesn't seem like I'm losing any hydrolic pressure

 

[GSXtacy724]

check your shift linkages, make sure the "C" clip is on and on right. I've done this a few times

 

[DSM_PWR]

Keep bleeding it....

Same thing happened to me and i had to bleed it for 5 min

worth a shot..

 

[JustinBondar]

what c clip? Rember the car will go into gear just fine when it is off if your refering to the clips on the end of the two shift cables then yes they are on

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes was it fine before the clutch install, if so i would say just bleed, then once its running do it again. I do that as well because its a process and it could take time to get it all out.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Read over this and tell us what you find: WHEN, WHY & HOW TO SHIM THE PIVOT BALL

 

[JustinBondar]

When you guys bleed it do you pump the pedal with the bleeder loose. If you can't get a can or bottle with fluid in it under the car with a hose what is the bleeding procedure. I just have someone in the car and push the pedal to the floor, then break the bleeder loose and and then tighten it. After I add fluid the person in the car pumps it up again.

 

[Tyeler18]

ok process is as follows
1) break bleeder open
2) Push in clutch
3) close bleeder
4) release clutch
5) check fluid level/fill
6) repeat steps

 

[TSiAWD666]

Did you verify the flywheel step height for the new clutch?

 

[JustinBondar]

The intersting thing is that the old clutch was an act 2100 street disk and the person who had it last did not get an extended slave rod. I didn't think to check if he shimmed the pivot ball or not. Should I try the old slave rod and see if that fixes my concern?

 

[JustinBondar]

I did not check the flywheel step height, but why would I have to if I just replaced the fidanza inserts?