Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[92AWDHX40]

Adjusting that thing is a a matter of night and day, adjusted mine after clutch problems now its a dream. Good Job.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Just got done with a rebuild on my engine and transmission, put it in the car last night and started it up today. At first before I started it the clutch had no resistance at all so we bled the system and now it has a little resistance at about 75% of the clutch pedal pushed down. To me this seems too low for the clutch to disengage/engage and I figured there would be more pressure needed to push the clutch down. I installed a Fidanza 2.1 and it seems that the old stock pressure plate needed more pressure to push the clutch pedal down. Will it get stiffer as I drive it? I didn't try to drive the car or put it in gear yet as I need exhaust on the car before I take it down the road.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

You more than likely didn't shim the clutch fork pivot ball correctly or at all. Read over this: When, Why, and How to Shim Clutch Pivot Ball

 

[MichaelSuch]

Just read some of it, and no I didn't shim the pivot ball at all... And yes I forgot to mention the flywheel was resurfaced by my local machine shop but I'm not sure how much was taken off. I probably can't shim it with the transmission still in? I'm not going to be too happy if I have to take the transmission and engine back out...

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Nope can't do it with it in. Needs to come out. Let me guess... the pedal engages 1/4 of the way right off the floor?

 

[MichaelSuch]

Yeah you have to push the pedal about 75% down until it engages, I'll check it all out tomorrow. 1g transmissions have to come out with the motor though correct?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Not at all... you can pull the trans without the motor relatively easily. Especially on your FWD.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Alright if I don't have to pull the motor out then it should be relatively easy to do then since theres only a few bolts and sensors to unplug and axles to pop out, but how exactly do you do it? When we put them in together we had a hell of a time doing so, the transmission and engine was just to wide to drop in evenly, we had to angle on side lower at a time and then readjust, I can't imagine the transmission coming out far enough to clear the clutch assembly.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Check this out: 1G AWD Clutch install

You can skip the steps about dropping the transfer case and the downpipe. Those shouldn't be in the way for you being FWD.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Well I took a look at it and the fork is right in the middle and read a post by John Sheppard saying that if it's not in the middle then I have problems, but it is positioned in the middle. I did use the ToB that came with the clutch but I didn't replace the fork and pivot ball like I should've. I'll do some more adjusting on the master cylinder rod and see if that helps, I did a little last night, maybe half a turn or so but I didn't feel a difference what so ever.

 

[toofast82]

Try adjusting your clutch master cylinder under the dash! Remember though that a little adjustment is a lot on the clutch. You also don't want to overadjust as you will put too much pressure on the master and it will prematurely fail

 

[talontsi98]

Just replaced the clutch with a napa stage 1 kit. It has a wierd feeling to it. It engages with normal pressure to the floor. Then the last few inches you have to push really hard. It does not matter if you pust it all the way down or just to the tight pressure it shifts fine. Is this a problem with the pressure plate?

 

[Lofty]

Just replaced the clutch with a napa stage 1 kit. It has a wierd feeling to it. It engages with normal pressure to the floor. Then the last few inches you have to push really hard. It does not matter if you pust it all the way down or just to the tight pressure it shifts fine. Is this a problem with the pressure plate?

Check if the transmission mounting bolts are loose.
This has happened to me TWICE.
Loctite red FTW^

 

[DSM-sagacious]

It sounds like you have your clutch over extended. You can adjust it under the dash at the top of the clutch pedal to see if it helps. RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I think its a badly adjusted slave cylinder. Did you bleed the clutch lines?

James

 

[talontsi98]

I gravity bled the clutch through about 4 reservoirs of fluid. The intital pressure is fine and the clutch is adjusted correctly.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Alright well I adjusted the master cylinder to where I start feeling pressure when I have the pedal pushed down 1/4 of the way, just like in my truck. But when I put it in first (it grinds a little) and let off the wheel spins like an inch... What am I doing wrong?

 

[EclipticalGS]

is this your first tranny rebuild? Check for leaks in slav and clutch mastercylinder. if its not fluids it could be as simple as adjusting the Clutch m-cylinder or as hard pulling the tranny and seeing what you couldve done wrong. If it worked before you installed the new clutch, then that forkball is off or needs repalcing, or u installed the wrong parts or maybe didnt put it back together the same way it came out.

Can you go into more detail too about letting off the clutch and wheels spin an inch...are you stallin the car? Or does it only literally move an inch when you feather it out???

 

[toofast82]

you may just need a hair more adjustment. also are you jamming it in to 1st. Your tranny may need some break in miles as well for smoother operation

 

[EclipticalGS]

ohh. i think i understand..since your pedal barely engages, when you fully press the clutch and try to get it into to gear, it wont and it grinds because it doesnt fully open to let the gear get in....then when you try to slowly pull the clutch pedal out to get going, it engages too fast and quick instead of slowly and featherly, then ends up stalling the car and chirping the tires an inch or 2 ??
Tell me if im correct..
if this is the case, go onto a road where there isnt many ppl all the time, then just rev the car up and try to slowly as possible get going without stalling and burning out, once your up to 5-10 miles an hour in 1st gear at 1000 rpms, jsut drive like that and see if it gets any better...

Try driving with clutch engaged, this can some times free it up if it was installed without the right lubricant...BTW....did you fill your tranny back up with fluid jsut checking!!

Most likely you could ahve an airlock in your clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder, make sure when u push the clutch in, have some1 ssee if the plunger is even working...if you have air lock, bleed several several times until its found if thats the problem.

Also ive been doin some research and other ppl are ahving problems with fidanza clutches, then when they swap it out with a new ACT or SPEC clutch, the problem goes away!!!

P.S. - toofast82 is right...id say 500 mile break in period

 

[toofast82]

The problem is that the aftermarket flywheels and clutch discs may be thinner than stock requiring more pedal effort. Also there is a washer mod and extended clutch rod that you can buy that people commonly use with the ACTs,etc. Read the shim pivot ball as well

 

[DeNoZZo]

Is it supposed to be about an inch off the floor when the upper stop is fully backed up, and the adjustment rod is adjusted so the slave can be pushed in by my hand?

Just wanted to confirm that.

 

[JusMX141]

Proper clutch adjustment:

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If you set your system up as described in this video, it will work flawlessly.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Read the shim pivot ball as well

Exactly!! And I've already given that sermon!

 

[DeNoZZo]

I used that video to adjust it.... I was watching it while doing it.