Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[Jason97GS-T]

clutch pedal on the floor

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well went to start my tsi and just bumped the clutch pedal, and it went to the floor. drove the day before had no problems what so ever. checked for fluid and empty, checked for leaks inside and out of the car, and not seeing any. put more fluid in the system and tryed to pump the pedal but still falls to the floor.i know its most likely the master cylinder, and buy the sounds of it this happens alot on the 2GA Gs-T and TSi fwd models. any help would be awesome

This happened to me a couple of months ago. I changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave sylinder and it drives fine now. it took like 45min to change. If one went out the other is going to eventually, so it is best to change them at the same time.

 

[albobizak]

make sure when you change your slave cylinder you change your old line too.

 

[kwAlk23]

Most likely your slave cylinder but i'd go ahead and change both the master and the slave

 

[toofast82]

I'd say its most likely your clutch master or slave. It is possible that you broke your clutch pedal, but i've never heard of it happening on 2g. Its kinda common on 1g, I broke one as well.

 

[toofast82]

oh sorry, i seen you said it had empty fluid. Than its definitely your slave or master. i'm still half asleep and read it too quick

 

[silverbullett]

I've never been a fan of throwing parts at a car to solve a problem but, it would probably be a good idea to replace both the master and slave cylinders. I would even go so far as to replace the clutch hose with a SS clutch line. Don't skip out on trying to find the actual problem though. When I had this problem the first time, it turned out my clutch hose was leaking. I replaced everything just to stay a step ahead. Good luck bro.

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

thanks guys for all the help, i do have more looking to do. i'm hoping its just a hose for now. its to cold to be out doors working on this. my driveway is retarted and don't have room to move cars around, i now have two paper weights. i'll let you now what i find.

 

[Butterfinger]

Yeah I replaced my master and slave as well just to find out it was a line, teflon tape on the thread's should have been a dead give away. Id look it over first.

 

[tjbiker031]

oh no, CRANKWALK!!! j/p

yeah its a good idea if you have the money to replace the slave cylinders and put in SS line. no telling how old they are and when they will go out, if they havent already.

 

[sarge281]

Yeah, happened to me, as well. I would also recommend replacing both the Master and Slave Cylinders. I replaced the line only because I broke the previous one. I found that replacing the line and slave @ the same time makes it a little easier, too. Not as much of a chance of cross-threading. By the way, where did you guys find the SS line at?

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

ok well got home last night and looked everything over and no leaks. so checked for fluid again, and empty again. so i put more in and try to pressurize the system and found that it will hold pressure for alittle while but bleeds off. still no leaks, so it must be leaking inside the bell housing. at least thats my guess what do you think? and what lines are you talking about? because there are like three or four pieces between the master and slave cylinder, are you replacing all or just the rubber ones? thanks again for the help.

 

[Splitpi]

so it must be leaking inside the bell housing.

That is absolutely impossible. The clutch [hydraulic system] doesn't enter into the bell housing. It actuates a fork that sticks out of the bell housing. The fork moves the clutch.

You have an air leak because a seal is defective. Air compresses, clutch fluid doesn't. Hence why the peddle goes to the floor with no resistance.

Replace the Master and Slave cylinders or rebuild them. Highly consider replacing the 15 year old piece of rubber in the clutch lines with a stainless steel line. I had mine burst one day while driving on the interstate ... just normal ware and tare.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/277132-no-clutch-fluid.html#post151347792

EDIT:

In the attached photo. I highlighted the three main parts.
1) Master Cylinder = Called: Clutch Master Cylinder
2) Slave Cylinder = Called : Clutch Release Cylinder
3) Rubber Hose = Called: Clutch Hose

If you purchase a SS clutch line it will replace all the hard lines from where the Rubber Hose connects to the "Clutch Pipe" all the way to the Slave Cylinder. Thus is replaces the rubber hose, and removes the "Clutch Fluid Chamber" and the hard line attached to the Slave Cylinder. The Fluid Chamber is a biatch to bleed and get all the air out of because it is pretty much a maze. I would recommend removing it and replacing with the SS line. Note that this will cause the Clutch to actuate faster as the chamber Dampens and delay the clutch some.... by design.

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

thanks for clearing that up. i thought maybe a seal for the fork could be leaking internally, i've never had this apart to see how this ones made. as for the S.S.(stainless steel) line, i should be able to get that anywhere, right. thanks again

 

[2slow4now]

Maybe you should have someone help you bleed the system for air before you start replacing parts. (ss line is a good idea) Just remember the air got in there somehow.

 

[JusMX141]

EXCELLENT vid on proper clutch adjustment after replacing the master cylinder:

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[DIMONDSTAR77]

thanks for the video very helpful, gotta love "you tube"

 

[viperlp01]

Did you use all new fluid before you changed it out. The fluid sometimes gets peices of metal in it that destory new seals. You must drain the lines and start all over from zero

 

[Roxy95]

does weather have something to do with this because it has been -40 here and my clutch is doing the same thing.

 

[toofast82]

If you pull the seal back on the slave, you should see a leak. If not its most likely your master, you may not always have a visual leak there. I would definitely check your line over real well. Good luck! Could be those worn thrust bearings(crankwalk) causing the weak clutch pedal, joking!

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

Could be those worn thrust bearings(crankwalk) causing the weak clutch pedal, joking!

your not funny.
haven't done it yet, still setting in driveway. and i do plan on blowing out all the lines, because i noticed last night that there is dark stuff in the fluid, which makes me think its the master cylinder that bad. can't see that coming all the way from the slave, anyway ordered new master, slave and have a hard time finding a SS line.
i've seen them offered for the EVOs, and from what i understand the OE one is discontinued. do you have a name of a brand that would speed this up, ineed to get this back on the road. thanks again.

 

[toofast82]

Fluid contamination is a symptom of a bad clutch master. The clutch lines can be found at SBR, RRE, and many of the other known dsm shops. I would definitely replace all three and be done. If youre doing it yourself, the master can be a pita. Good luck!

 

[TerribleTSi]

i put a new motor in today. at the same time i put in a center force duel friction clutch. i got the ACT Xact flywheel resurfaced before i reinstalled it. Now when i attempt to put it in gear (1st or reverse) it grinds hard and kicks it back. So i started in gear with the clutch pedal all the way to floor but the car creeps very slowly(about 1 mph).

My clutch is not disenging all the way i got that. I figure it is not the slave or master because i drove the car to where i swped the motors no problem, no grinding or nasty notching shifts. My slave does not leak either. YES i have 2 washers behind my pivot ball. Do i need a extended clutch rod or something? The peddle still feels good, does not engage like crazy and launch or hop just doesn't disengage all the way.

 

[toofast82]

you can try adjusting your clutch master under the dash.

 

[TerribleTSi]

wow that worked like a charm and here i was thinking i was about to have a major drivetrain issue, thanks. i guess i know why i never did, that was retardedly hard to adjust

 

[toofast82]

Its in a bad spot. just dont overadjust it because you can put excessive pressure on the master. a little adjustment does alot. glad it is working out for you though