Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[GoldenEagle]

i dont know exactly what u mean by stepped.....It is a fidanza 7 lbs flywheel.

 

[snowborder714]

First thing discussed in this link (but read over it all as it's good info).
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[woodnbronze24]

does it firm up when you pump it?

 

[GoldenEagle]

will a fwd flywheel bolt on the awd, i know it wont work but will it actually fit and bolt on? Im asking this because i was just looking at some pics and now im all mixed up. i dont know if they were actual pics of the fwd and then pics of the awd or just pics of the flywheel in general . Can anybody send some pics of both??? Please

 

[4cefed VR-4]

when the car is off it will go into every gear, but if i start it and them try to put it into gear it wont, not 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th or reverse. and if i start the car with it in gear the car will start rolling forward i dont think its the clutch becuase this all happened suddenly, maybe the slave cylander or the master? any help would be appreciated. oh by the way its a 1991 galant vr4

 

[DSM_PWR]

Yup slave...

Easy way to check is have someone pump the clutch pedal and get under the car and see if the slave is extending the shift fork...

Other possibilities is that maybe theres a leak in the line or air bubbles... you can fix the air by bleeding the clutch but if theres a leak.. then thats an obvious fix...

 

[94MightyMax]

Check your slave cylinder. Mine went out on my car before and I couldnt get it into gear unless I pumped it up. Look for any leaks in the line and check fluid level.

 

[slow gst]

Definatley like the previous 2 posters stated check the slave.

 

[1timehondalover]

It's probably the slave but it could very well be the master cylinder as well. Of the 3 DSM's I've owned 2 of them needed masters while one needed a slave. Look for wet carpet or padding on the firewall for signs of master failure.

 

[4cefed VR-4]

ok, installed the slave, same thing. i bled it, it still doesnt go into gear.
if the car is running and my foot is on the clutch and im trying to put it into gear, it wont go, but when i shut the car off (im still putting pressure on the shifter) as soon as the car shuts off, it goes into gear. could the master have an internal leak? because theres nothing on the firewall, inside or out. i think im going to get a line clamp and test the master tomorrow.
is there any kind of switch or fuse that could have gone bad suddenly to cause this? because i drove the car home and nothing was acting up, i got home shut the car off, went inside to change and i came back out not 2 minutes later and it doesnt go into gear.
help is great

 

[BigTurboTalon]

I just bought a 1996 Talon TSI with a 6 bolt swap.

If I just push the clutch in and put it in 1st and then release the clutch the car does not move and makes a winding noise but not a grinding. Sometimes it will also pop out.

For me to get it into 1st gear i have to put it in neutral, let out the clutch, then put it in second and then into 1st and even then sometime it doesnt go anywhere and makes a funky noise.

I pulled the center console and noticed there are no cotter pins holding the shift linkage in place and I'm thinking that can be the cause. The previous owner just replaced the bushings underneath the hood. He thinks it is the bushings under the console and I just picked up a set of them. He also said if it still does it once I replace the bushings then it must be out of adjustment. Any advice?

I also have a 6 puck clutch, it's stiff and engages agressivly and it doesn't feel great taking off in 2nd at all. I'm not sure what clutch disc is in it. I wanna say act 2600 but do you guys think taking off in 2nd now will severely lessen the life of the clutch?

Thanks

 

[EagleTalon1993]

Several things could be at work here First of them being is there enough fluid in the master cylinder for the clutch, then I would say try adjusting the syncronizers under the hood (chiltons or haynes manual shows how) then replace those shifter bushings in the console.

Thats my two cents worth- I can't imagine taking off in second would be any good for the clutch as there will be alot more resistance for it to overcome.

 

[JMiller]

Ok i have been noticing this for a while now, my clutch pedal pressure and engagement point change depending on the weather, when its very cold the pedal feels great not to stiff and catches were i set it. But when it rains or the humidity is high the pedal is very light/soft and it catches closer to the floor. Also i think water got on my clutch setup (PP,Disc,Flywheel) one day when it was pouring.(i had to drive through a semi flooded spot on the road) Afterwards the pedal got super soft until the next day. Could that have messed anything up?

Thanks in advance.

 

[EagleTalon1993]

I suppose the clutch disk could have become saturated with water but it should have dried out by now. I would suspect that you fluid in the master cyclinder for the clutch got contaminated with water and when it's cold the fluid is thick and works well when it gets hot it thins out and doesn't engage as well.

I would check the fluid if it looks contaminated you could just flush the slave cylinder and master cyclinder for the clutch making sure to bleed it well and it might resolve your issue

 

[JMiller]

could cheap clutch fluid maybe have the same consistency of water being in it, cause I've tried almost everything, New transmission, ACT 2100 kit, ACT flywheel, OEM TOB, New MC, New SC. I have changed everything except the clutch fork and ball. Its very annoying. Oh and i have bleed the clutch too many times. I even pulled the oil pan to measure for crankwalk.

 

[jmkoons]

Sounds like the reach on the shifter linkage might just miss engagement. Cotter pins will prevent the cable ends from slipping up and off, so replacing them is a good security measure. Since the lines are looped there, that wouldn't change the shift cable positions. Stiffer shifter base bushings will give a more direct feel for engagement, but again shouldn't affect your problem of not getting into 1st. Check here:

Shifter Adjustment

 

[toofast82]

If the original shifter base bushings are very worn, it could affect going into gear. The steel/aluminum ones will definitely enhance shifter performance.
I would check the adjustment of the cables first though. Definitely put the cotter pins in, too.
VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions has the adjustment procedure.
Does your clutch pedal feel right? Your saying this is not a clutch issue at all?

 

[EagleTalon1993]

Thats possible but not likely I would use a good dot 4 brake fluid and make sure to bleed everything including the slave cylinder. Does the fluid look contaminated ?

 

[JMiller]

Its DOT4 but its like duralast brand. Could clutch pedal pressure change if i have a bad clutch fork and ball, cause that is the only thing that hasn't been changed. And i did bleed the entire system(MC to SC)

 

[90tsitalonfwd]

ok i have replaced my transmission twice i have a brand new slave and master cylinder along with a good act clutch no air in the clutch lines and the slave cylinder seems to be moving just fine when i pump the pedal... ok with all of that i still have a very soft clutch pedal so it will not allow me to go into gear... anyone have an opinion on what my problem good be???

 

[SrKegler]

Fork and ball were in good shape? Tried bleeding the slave cylinder?

 

[90tsitalonfwd]

Fork and ball were in good shape? Tried bleeding the slave cylinder?

yeah fork and ball are good and yes we have bled it like 20 times its like it builds pressure at the slave because i can see the slave actually moving but there is no pressure at the pedal

 

[rarest_90_DsM]

i don't want to sound like a idiot but are you sure you put the throw out bearing and clip in? if not that crawl under the dash (driver side) and look up at where the clutch master comes threw the fire wall and look to see if it is leaking by the rod that connects to the pedal assembly? you'll need a flash light cause its up there. if its not leaking and everything looks good check to see if the slave cylinder is bad lay on the ground and have your buddy press the clutch and hold it you'll see the slave cylinder rod push on the fork watch it if it creeps back to the start position while hes holding the clutch down its bad hope this helps

 

[PIMking]

Its amazing that these threads ever get an answer due to the 59 threads a day that say "help".

did you search soft clutch pedal?

 

[CheaCheaBoy]

I have the same problem. Is this something you can do at your house? or do I have to bring it to a shop?