Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[talon913]

thanks but i figured out it was my tranny bolts wer all loose and the tranny to motor had a big gap in it..so now i think its the clutch and pp are messed up and maybe a stuck tob.il find out when i drop my transmission

 

[dsm612]

so oem is the way to go. man thank you i hope this works you have been a big help . if you are ever in tn the nashville area i wold love to see your car and maybe take a drive . dsm612 to viperbenz1

 

[Yancy]

BTW, I was going to recommend you for positive reputation points.. but as a new member I can't.. Hopefully a moderator or someone will read this and hook you up Mindset..

 

[mindset]

BTW, I was going to recommend you for positive reputation points.. but as a new member I can't.. Hopefully a moderator or someone will read this and hook you up Mindset..

Oh, thanks. I'll contact a mod for you.

And just for future reference:
vfaq.com

 

[1gDSMike]

Ive pretty much searched every forum with the word clutch in it. No luck.
Here Goes.
I just put in a brand new stock exedy clutch pp and tob. I bled the system, no air is in it but the clutch does not engadge unless i push the clutch to the floor and then it makes this click noise like I'm going too far. Should i bleed the hell out of it? WTF

 

[luv2rallye]

First read this: TRE TECH TIPS

and view "proper clutch adjustment" and "pivot ball shimming" here: Transmission Videos

 

[eclips3_xs]

yeh guys i wanted to ask you guys do your gears go in smoothly or hard smooth. Because i passed on the bleeding stuff and sometimes my gears go in like kinda hard like something is stopping them is it normal or no. i have built trans quifa lsd double 2 3 gear sencros and so on. sometimes i feel like they are perfect and sometimes i feel like aim forcing them to go in.I put royal purple gear oil i don't know does it matter what kind of gear oil you put in.

 

[Rob10_99]

Transmissions are reliably reliable if you drive it like your grandmother,
When your having issues is it really cold out, or in the morning? Who rebuilt your trans?
How many miles on the breakin?

 

[95redturboawd]

You passed on bleeding it? Why? Go do that.

 

[gpsturbo]

You need to check the clutch assembly under the dash, it is probably moving. Look around for how to check it.(usually push clutch in and try to pull it up with your foot). Mine went bad and no matter what I did, it engaged low. First check the rod above the pedal to the clutch master cylinder.(rotate it to give you more length and tighten). DO NOT get a longer rod. If you are having problems and the pedal assembly is good, most likely your release fork (shift fork) that moves your TOB is worn, if it has never been changed, then it is a big culprit. It makes a huge difference and causes unknown amounts of slack in the system!

 

[1gDSMike]

I think its my clutch fork, MC and Sc aren't leaking, and the assembly doesnt move or anything.
new clutch, pp and tob. all stock though no performance type anything, i blew up my old one and had like 1 hour before the auto store closed. I work too much to not have a car and wait for my nice clutch to come. but my pedal is still hard to push in.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

Did you guys ever figure out what went wrong here? I am in the same position. Any info would be great

 

[Rob10_99]

You should see fluid where the bad part is, be it master or slave. If its wet replace/rebuild it.

 

[kram0170]

I recently brought my car (2g AWD) into a reputable DSM shop to have the engine replaced (my old one had a cracked sleeve). Prior to bringing the car in, my car had absolutely no clutch issues. I have a ACT 2900 PP with an ACT street disk, a Fidanza flywheel, and a Shep Stage IV tranny that is less than a year old.

While my car was at the shop, they noticed that I had a tranny fluid leak and the shop ended up replacing the end and mid tranny plates. That fixed the leak.

When I picked up the car, the clutch wouldn't disengage and I couldn't get the car into gear. The shop adjusted the clutch pedal by moving the master cylinder rod attached to the clutch pedal. After which the car went into gear fine. A few hours later, I noticed that I had the 2G pedal pump up issue as the shop adjusted the rod too far, but the car shifted into gears just fine. I followed the directions on Jack Transmission's website to adjust the clutch pedal properly. I also checked to be sure that the clutch fork was close to the slave rod (the fork is not in the middle and is closer to the slave) and thus I didn't need to shim the pivot ball. The clutch fork is less than a year old as it was replaced by Shep.

After proper clutch pedal adjustment, I couldn't disengage the clutch again. So the shop decided to try to replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system. Same symptoms! But if the clutch pedal rod is adjusted too much, causing the pump up issue, I can get into gears just fine.

I have checked for leaks and the shop has bled the system again, no change.

What could this be?

Could the shop have assembled my clutch, pressure plate, flywheel incorrectly? Though it doesn't appear to be the case as the car drives and shifts fine if the clutch pedal rod is adjusted incorrectly. The pedal pumps up, the engagement point moves up, but that takes a few hours. During that time, the car shifts fine.

Could the master be bad? There are no leaks and it has been replaced 2 years ago with an OEM Mitsu part.

Would an extended slave rod fix this? Because then it would push out the clutch fork more causing the clutch to disengage when the pedal is properly adjusted. But why did I not need this before my engine was rebuilt? Same clutch, same PP, same flywheel.

PLEASE HELP!!

 

[dsm91TalonTSi]

i just dropped my motor back in my tsi and got her running
now, i went to move it, and i have to press the clutch all the way to the floor to get it to engage. Even with it pressed to the floor, it still wants to move a little, likes its not engaging all the way. Any suggestions on what this may be?

new slave, and master isnt leaking

 

[ilco187]

have you bled the system, kinda a similar scenario i had after putting my engine back in.

 

[brassc2007]

do you mean disengaging? cause with it engaged it should move. have you went through and rebled the clutch system, have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal which does infact connect to the clutch master and controls the engaging and disengagment points. it sounds like you need to adjust it out for a longer throw of the slave cylinder piston it sounds like it is coming up just a little bit short so you would want to adjust it so that it gives you a little more pedal to play with.

 

[dsm91TalonTSi]

i will try adjusting the pedal tomorrow. thank you

 

[brassc2007]

yep no problem just remember to adjust it a little at a time untill it feels just right for you if you adjust it to much you may miss that sweet spot and it wont engage all the way. if you have any questions just drop me a pm or search a couple post on here for clutch pedal adjustment .

 

[mitsu_matt]

What does it mean when it is nearly imposable to shift into any gear when the car is running but when the car is not running it shifts smoothly?

I replaced the master, line and slave everything was perfect, then i was out for a drive and all of a sudden I could not get it to go into any gear without really pushing it hard, very hard. I check tranny fluid and it is full, and i do not see any leaks.

 

[954TalonTsi]

There could a few reasons that i know of that cause this. First i had same prob n it turns out there wuz air in line still(bleed them for 20 mins before). It could also be either your syncros are bad or could be output shaft. It still gets into gear after u push real hard u said? If you had the time, I'd take my tranny out and check the clutch/input shaft. Hope u get it working right

 

[mitsu_matt]

Humm, I dont think there is air in the line, I blead it really good. and the clutch feels good. I will double check. And yes it does go into gear when you push really hard. It does not grind at all when you push it into the gear, so I would think the syncro's are good. Also i think it would be hard to have them all go bad at the exact same time.

How do you check the output shaft?

 

[juanpac0]

Same thing happened to me when the springs on my clutch popped out, try starting the car in gear in a safe place with the clutch in to make sure it's disengaging properly.

 

[greg90gs]

im having this problem in my 1g it has gotten better over the last few weeks but still every now and then a haft to practically stand on the shifter to get it to go into gear and when it does it goes from not budging to felling like somebody moved the wall i was pressing against and then it slams into gear. i havnt found the solution yet, but what i have found to help is if you down shift into first while still rolling forward while slowing down it will usually go into gear everytime, if i try to put it into first from a dead stop, no go, if im rolling up to a stop sign and put it in first ( with the clutch pushed in of coarse) it will go into gear everytime, sometimes it is still resistant but no where near as bad. if i find out what is going on with mine i will let you know but im about to drop a new tranny into mine and rebuild the one i pull, only because i found a tranny with good syncros for 40$ from a local dsm lover

 

[95gst16g]

Something like this happened to me when I did my clutch.I thought it was bled good.It would be fine then I would use the clutch a few times and it would grind and not go into gear.I would adjust the pushrod and it would be fine for a while and then it wouldnt work again.I just thought to myself maybe I should bleed the clutch again and I did.I have not had a problem since.