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Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

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BoostInsideTSi

15+ Year Contributor
200
1
May 5, 2004
Aurora, Illinois
Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.


I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike
 
hmm with my luck I wont have that.... Where is this all located? I'll go take a look now to see if there was a leak.
 
It is a cylinder that has a rod coming out of it that presses on the clutch fork. It is located at the front of your tranny with a metal line running to it. It should have a rubber boot around the end of the cylinder and end of the rod so it may be hard to tell if it is leaking.
 
Usually if they're on the edge of being good or bad it will only happen when you're getting into the gas/making boost. It's possible the system just needs to be bled or you have a leak some place. These are the only problem makers I know of for this.
 
so it may be hard to tell if it is leaking.

If you have trouble finding the slave ect. right now just check your resivor and see if it's still at the full line. Rebuild kits are alot cheaper but I don't know if I would trust AutoZone ones. You can get an OEM master rebuild kit at JNZ I believe for like $20-30. Better to fix the problem right then have it break down again in a few miles. And it figures about the RPM's LOL dosn't take much if any boost if they're bad.
 
Yeah I was at a high rpm when it occurred... I'm only pushin 9psi... so meh?

Yeah, thats how mine started too. I would lose a little pressure then a couple days later, none at all. Trust me, it sucks trying to bleed a clutch in the rain by yourself. And I am still breaking in the motor/turbo so I am only running 10psi also.
 
If you have trouble finding the slave ect. right now just check your resivor and see if it's still at the full line. Rebuild kits are alot cheaper but I don't know if I would trust AutoZone ones. You can get an OEM master rebuild kit at JNZ I believe. Better to fix the problem right then have it break down again in a few miles. And it figures about the RPM's LOL dosn't take much if any boost if they're bad.

Resivor of what? No specific here.

Yeah, thats how mine started too. I would lose a little pressure then a couple days later, none at all. Trust me, it sucks trying to bleed a clutch in the rain by yourself. And I am still breaking in the motor/turbo so I am only running 10psi also.


So you don't think a new master cylinder / slave is really needed? I am not a mechanic but my buddy is so I pay him to do all my work, this wont be alot of work will it? :( this car is pissin me off hah
 
Clutch fluid reservoir. It's the small cylinder in the top right corner of your engine bay. You can use this to help locate items in the engine bay.
Virtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - 1G Visual Index

I would look under the dash at the master and see if there is any leaking. Just follow the clutch pedal up to where it connects the a rod from the firewall. That's the master.

I would then look at the slave cylinder and check for leaking. Pull back the boot a bit and see. You can find more info on this page towards the bottom - look for More Other Stuff.
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

I would then try bleeding the clutch.

Then I would try adjusting the clutch per this video (2nd video down - Proper Clutch Adjustment).
Transmission Videos



If you find a leak, you obviously know you have a problem. If you can't get the clutch adjusted, then I would say it's a faulty master cylinder. It's typically recommended to replace both at the same time.
 
"Resivor of what?"

LOL.. sorry. Your clutch master cylinder resivor. Under the hood drivers side next to your brake fluid one I believe. Little clearish container with a white cap on top if it's like the 2g.
 
haha its cool, yea I'm a moron, I should of known you were talking about that and not the resivor for something else >_< Thanks tho I'll go check now.
 
These cars can make any one lose their mind. Follow what snowboarder put up if you find your resivor still full. That's everything you need to know to fix the problem. Clutch adjustment may be something to get help with or read it over watch the videos then print out the directions and take it step by step. I think the RRE link will give really clear directions for clutch adjustment too. If the resivor is full it's most likely just your master/slave going out. It only takes the better part of 30 mins to change both and bleed the system. Really easy job. Good luck!
 
Thanks but the resivor was empty, I just checked it. This can be either one or two things, leak or someone forgot to put the fluid in? :ohdamn: ... It had like a little but it was sticking to the walls of the resivor nothing that would even do the job. What do I fill that resivor with?

Brake Fluid?
 
Yep, just check cheap brake fluid and fill it up. You'll want to bleed it to get all the air out of the lines as well as adjust it. When you bleed it, make sure to keep the reservoir full as to not get any more air in the lines. And make sure not to drip brake fluid on your paint as it's not good for it! Then keep an eye on it. I would also check the master/slave while you're at it just to make sure neither are leaking.
 
If the cars outside it might be hard to see but you must have a pretty decent leak someplace. Check the bottom of that resivor and the master cylinder and lines of which that resivor connects to and try to follow them as far as you can looking for a leak. Read snowboarders post and follow that process. Check under your dash behind the clutch pedal where it goes into the wall and look for leaks there.
Then under the car almost dead center infront of the transmission is the slave cylinder. Check that for for a leak. Just follow what snowboarder gave you for links as they have pictures and clear directions for all of this.
 
Thanks for all the assistance guys, I will do all this, another day to fix this piece of shitttt LOL =) Thanks though!
 
"Yep, just check cheap brake fluid and fill it up. You'll want to bleed it to get all the air out of the lines as well as adjust it."

I would just fill it up with the DOT3 brake fluid and pump the clutch slowly a few times then check the resivor again. If it's gone down find your leak before you take anything any farther as nothing will work until the leak is fixed.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

:thumb:
 
"RESERVOIR"

Not "resivor". Yes, I know, grammar police in action. But please, for the children's sake. If all else fails, just use the spellcheck that comes with most Web browsers. Firefox even does it for you.
 
Did you bother getting the flywheel cut to the correct stepping height? I swear this is one of the biggest mistakes people make, and it will cause dis-engagement/engagement problems.

Let me get this straight. Your mechanic is asking YOU what YOU think is wrong?

If your clutch pedal feels good with no slop and it's not leaking hydraulic fluid then it's probably not a hydraulic problem.

Could also be a t/o bearing issue or clutch fork.

Might want to check and see if anything is obstructing the shift cables also.
 
so i should have play? What if i dont??

Yes it should have about 1/2" of play. Best way to check is to remove the slave cylinder (2 bolts), and wiggle the clutch side to side. It should move 1/2". Also when you push the fork to the passenger side it should be roughly in the middle of the window. If it doesn't wiggle, then your clutch fork may be pushing the TOB against the pressure plate for some reason putting excessive pressure on the crank and bearings. Check it and go from there.

Tom
 
Im holding the clutch down when it pops out. With the car running no gears go in, with the car off the gears go in but if i turn the car on with the gear in, the gear will pop right off. There is def. no hydrolic problem because the clutch pedal is nice and stiff all the way down and back up. could he have installed the clutch wrong?? If he did install it wrong where do u guys think he went wrong?????? Mind u.. he installed a 2900 clutch kit, fidanza flywheel and also the extended rod on the slave cylinder.

(snowboarder714) He did try to adjust the clutch pedal and supposivly it wasnt the issue and to be honest the pedal feel is pretty good nice and stiff so i think that rules out any adjustment or hydrolic problems. I think he just installed it wrong..... any ideas?????
 
Question, when i rest my foot on the clutch pedal sometimes it will slowly sink down almost all the way to the floor but when i take my foot all the way off it, its fine. Car still shifts fine.. Im thinking either my master cylinder is going or my slave cylinder... Anyone know which or how to test?
 
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