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ECMlink (V3 Lite) Help Tame my idle.

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skatershawn

15+ Year Contributor
1,271
13
Feb 27, 2009
Austin, Texas
This is my first time every messing with any ecu like this(DSMLink). I previously used a GM MAF w/MAFT and Wideband to tune and did decent with what I had, but this is a bit more involved.

Well this log is of me idling with a slight rev at the end.(lauch control kicked in @ 3k.)
My IdlePos at 0.
My car has a looping idle I can't seem to figure out for the life of me.
My idle is really high also.
My timing is (what i think) out of the roof.
As for the timing, I went in and did some small changes to my timing table at idle which dropped my timing(duh) and dropped my idle decently.

I also tried simulating the idlestop with the TPS and that stopped my looping idle but shot my idle up to 2.5k steady. (didn't log that) Why is that it would do this?
I was thinking, if i simulate it and get my timing correct it will be good but is that the right way?

Well i'll let you all scoop my idle and see what pointers you come up with!
Thanks in advance!
 

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What's your ISCpos look like?

E: If you're stuck in Open Loop then your idle will be crazy
 
I logged my ISCpos, cant remember the numbers (im on my phone right now) but it was flat lined at the bottom till I press the gas or cruise.
I cant find any boost leaks.
And ive been suspecting my o2 sensor may need to be replaced.
 
Yes I've had a hunch that the o2 was going out, but wasn't to sure.
I'll try to get that taken care of asap, and redo my base ignition timing.

My ISCPos is at 0 during idle, when i rev'ed it slightly it went to 42.
When I shut the engine off it spiked to 132, then dropped to a steady 90.
Not sure what is should be at.

But another question, what is the benefits of locking my IntTemps at 77*f? It came like that, and I don't quite see what the purpose would be for it.
 
Yes I've had a hunch that the o2 was going out, but wasn't to sure.
I'll try to get that taken care of asap, and redo my base ignition timing.

My ISCPos is at 0 during idle, when i rev'ed it slightly it went to 42.
When I shut the engine off it spiked to 132, then dropped to a steady 90.
Not sure what is should be at.

But another question, what is the benefits of locking my IntTemps at 77*f? It came like that, and I don't quite see what the purpose would be for it.

An ISC position of 0 means the ECU is trying to close it completely to get the idle down. I say trying because there is no feedback in this circuit so if the ISC doesn't actually close, the ECU has no way to know. An ISC position of zero means the ECU is trying to bring the idle down, but can't. Usually means a boost/vacuum leak, bad ISC, missing or misadjusted BISS or a missing idle switch. ISCposition should be around 30.

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

As for intake temp locked at 77, its usually due to having a non Mitsu MAF sensor that doesn't need intake temp to calculate air mass. When using a GM MAF, Intake temps are not needed, so they are just locked at 77. I am assuming you are still using your MAF translator?
 
An ISC position of 0 means the ECU is trying to close it completely to get the idle down. I say trying because there is no feedback in this circuit so if the ISC doesn't actually close, the ECU has no way to know. An ISC position of zero means the ECU is trying to bring the idle down, but can't. Usually means a boost/vacuum leak, bad ISC, missing or misadjusted BISS or a missing idle switch. ISCposition should be around 30.

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

As for intake temp locked at 77, its usually due to having a non Mitsu MAF sensor that doesn't need intake temp to calculate air mass. When using a GM MAF, Intake temps are not needed, so they are just locked at 77. I am assuming you are still using your MAF translator?

Correct I am still using the MAFT.

And ive done many boost leak test with no failures, i replaced the ISC twice (with used ones, but always checked them as shown on youtube). Just replaced my Idle stop switch with a new one(no such help), and my biss is brand new also. Its a bit deep in though.

This is what I have planned for the weekend and maybe it will help. Try to get an o2 sensor in, do another boost leak test, redo my base timing.

Would doing the ISC block off possibly cure this, or help figure it out?
I bought the ISC block off which still retained the FIAV, but what if my FIAV is wack.
 
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