Resolved Using buzzer to check CEL

[coolrider2112]

Ok I read many post and I thought I had it down but want to ask you guys just to make sure. I am going to you the long and short pulses in the sets just like vfaq and maybe you can tell me what the numbers are.

It starts off from beginning to finish like this.

L-S-S-S-L-L-S-S-S-S-S-L-S-S-L

Then it repeats itself after that. I do not know why it gave me 5 short pulses in a row but I did the test over and over and that is what it is giving me.

I feel like I'm getting code 31 for knock sensor, code 21 for coolant temps sensor, and I do not know what the other one is. But in less I am doing wrong those can be the wrong codes.

 

[DSM1G90]

You got a number of issues here: Codes always start with a L, then S

5 short buzzes means the ECU is normal since there is no "L"

From your posting:

L,S,S,S - 4 Air Intake Sensor
L,L,S,S,S,S - 5 TPS
L,S,S - 3 Air Flow Sensor (MAF sensor)
L - 1 ECU died

or ... (if we take the last "L" and put it at the beginning):



L,L,S,S,S - 8 TDC sensor
L,L,S,S,S,S - 5 TPS
L,S,S- 3 Air Flow (MAF) sensor

The last two are more common for failure or just connection issues.

Try your testing again. There is always a space between the series of pulses...

If you come up with these codes again,this could be that there are sections in the ECU are toast if you do the sensor testings first (and they show good) before doing these tone tests.

That way you have "condemned" this part of the puzzle knowing that sensors are good.

Good luck. DSM

 

[coolrider2112]

Man I appreciate your answer I was so stupid, because I forgot to put the MAS back on after the boost leak test thats what caused all the problems.

 

[steve]

Sounds to me like he got the following:

L-S-S-S 13 IAT Sensor
L-L-S-S-S-S-S 25 Baro Sensor
L-S-S 12 MAF Sensor

And yes if the MAF was unplugged this is what I would expect to be thrown but in the following order 12, 13, 25.

 

[DSM1G90]

(Whoops..forgot a 5th "s" and one "L" the middle reading in my post...sorry on that..) After undoing the negative cable for a minute then reconnect, you should have a good series of short buzzes..meaning that the ECU is good...and you're good to go.

 

[steve]

(Whoops..forgot a 5th "s" and one "L" the middle reading in my post...sorry on that..)

Your post would seem to imply you forgot that long pulses are the tens and short the units digits. So your counting first the long pulses to see how many tens and then the number of units for each code. Then there is a pause followed by the next code or repeating if there isn't a next code.

 

[Mr PopUps]

I came across this just tonight while looking for something else, i made a couple way back when and they came in handy as i used alligator clips so i could pay attention to the blips without worrying if it would disconnect. You can also hard-wire this into the car.

At least i think this is the one, the link from dsm.org has been dead for years last time i looked for it.

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[steve]

That circuit has nothing to do with reading the fault codes. It's a LED flasher.