Urethane Motormount Inserts.

[my98GST]

Can someone please tell me where I could find a write up on the installation on a 2g GST? I checked out vfaq and there wasn't the step by step installation. So if someoen could please post one it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[~laser_craver~]

i would liek one for the 1g also... i can seem to figure out how in the hel you get the old rubber crap out....

 

[my98GST]

i could probably figure out how to do it on my own, but im wanting some directions before i FUBAR something

 

[Catbox_95]

Unbolt the motor mounts from the car. Take a sawz-all and cut out as much as you can of the inserts. Then take a blow-torch and burn the rest of it out. Then you'll need to press the new ones in. Then re-install.

It's not too difficult, but it is a lot of work.

 

[2low2drive]

The urethane mounts I have seen seem to just go on either side of the facory motor mounts and fill in the the two holes that are above and below the bolt that goes through the mount. kind of like a filler. I saw somewhere where some one just used urethane adhesive and filled in the 2 holes to make them stiffer. If you take a look at the mount you will understand what I mean.DIY motor mounts

 

[davnsam6]

i used a saws all and a die grinder on my 91 talon but i didn't use the urethane mounts i went to the boat store and got the rollers they use on the trailers and ground them down and pressed them in<------ red neck style

 

[~laser_craver~]

thankx for help guys

 

[99gst_racer]

If someone wants to mail me their motor mounts and Prothanes, I would gladly do the work and put up a tech write-up for them. No charge for the labor. If interested, please PM me.

 

[~laser_craver~]

id send mine but i hae to take the motor mounts out and dont want car sitting for a few weeks, sorry

 

[VegasTSI]

put the car up on jack stands, then get a plank of wood and put it between the jack and bottom of engin and secure the engin in place and unbolt and replace... take out whats needed to get to the bolts, don't try bending stuff, trouble waiting to happen

 

[~laser_craver~]

i know how to get the motor mounts out , i just dont want my car and motor sitting on jacks and ajck stand for a week or 2

 

[Wicked96GS-T]

I literally just did this install this weekend. I will try and explain it as best I can. What I did was as follows: support the bottom of the engine with a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan.

Remove the driver's side mount by pulling the through bolt out, and the two nuts/one bolt holding the mount in place. After you have the driver's side mount out of the car, take a sawzall and cut through the metal sleeve of the rubber mount. Then take a chisel and hammer, and pound out the metal sleeve. It will be tough, but just keep at it, and make sure you cut all the way though the metal sleeve so it can compress, allowing you to knock it out. push in the poly mounts and make sure they go all the way into the mount by tapping them with a rubber mallet. Don't forget to put in your metal sleeve inside the new poly mounts. Replace the driver's side mount( yes it will be a tight fit, use a little muscle).

Next, move onto the passenger side mount that is located on top of the transmission. Pull the through bolt, as well as the 4 nuts holding the mount to the transmission. Use the same process of the sawzall/chisel to get the old rubber mount out, and replace it with the poly inserts/metal sleeve. Replace the mount, torquing everything to correct specs, and move on.

You're now halfway there . Move onto the rear mount now. You will have to pull out the through bolt, as well as the 2 (3?) bolts holding it to the back of the transmission. After freeing the mount, slide it up, and place your inserts on either side of the factory rubber mount (you will not remove the factory rubber!). Hold the two inserts in place (they should only fit one way in the mount) and slide the mount back into place. Align the mount, and replace all of the bolts holding it in place.

Almost there now. Now move on to the front mount. This one should be pretty easy if you have gotten this far. Remove the through bolt, and the two bolts holding the mount to the support bar under the motor. Place your two inserts(one on either side) into the mount, just like the rear, and then replace your mount.

Congratulations, you made it . Just make sure to go back and torque everything to the factory specs. You may notice some increased vibrations, but you will definitely notice less wheelhop (FWD).

I hope this helped everyone out there who tries to do this, let me know if anything is unclear, and I will do my best to walk you through it.

 

[stars]

When I installed my poly bushings it made the entire engine compartment vibrate like crazy, I had re-tightened all the bolts thinking that I had one loose but now after all the bolts are tightened, I'm guessing it is because poly bushings do not give very much like rubber does. I'm going to use just the original rubbers for the front and rear mounts and leave the engine and trans mounts poly and see what it does from there. Anyone experience any extra noises or vibrations when you upgraded from rubber to poly mounts on all 4 mounts?

 

[negativezero27]

Just get this solid front motor mount. Its worth the money. i have it on my gst and its great. Its easy as heck to put on too. Took me like 10 mins.

http://www.howellautomotive.com/Howell/Store/catalog/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=299

 

[bwhughey]

In my experience, it's easier to just blow-torch the whole thing out, rather than cutting it up with a sawsall first. If you get the outer steel ring hot enough, the internal old doughnut will just ooze out with gentle pressure. Don't try to apply heat to the rubber directly, or you'll just end up with a smelly, goopy mess.

On the vibration side, yes you will have plenty. You've just raised the resonant frequency of the engine mounting system with harder mounts, so be prepared for higher frequency vibrations entering the cockpit. It's a trade off; I'd rather have the buzzes than the motor and transaxle flopping around under the hood. If you have a BSEK and a solid crank pulley you're in for a treat. ;-)

Dave Buschur once noted that the solid aluminum mounts in his rear-driver made his rearview mirror readjust itself. Hard poly mounts are somewhere in between that and stock.

Regards,
Brad

 

[99gst_racer]

When I installed my poly bushings it made the entire engine compartment vibrate like crazy, I had re-tightened all the bolts thinking that I had one loose but now after all the bolts are tightened, I'm guessing it is because poly bushings do not give very much like rubber does. I'm going to use just the original rubbers for the front and rear mounts and leave the engine and trans mounts poly and see what it does from there. Anyone experience any extra noises or vibrations when you upgraded from rubber to poly mounts on all 4 mounts?

The added vibration is normal. The stock, soft rubber mounts were designed to absorb much of the engine's harmonic vibration. The stiffer poly inserts do not absorb as well and they transfer that vibration into the cabin. You can usually raise your idle a couple humdred RPM's and that will help supress much of the vibration. My car idles around 800-1000 and I don't really experience any vibration (at least, not enough to consider it an annoyance).

In my experience, it's easier to just blow-torch the whole thing out, rather than cutting it up with a sawsall first.

More people have access to a sawsall over a blow torch. I can easily do a mount in 15 min with a drill and a sawsall. If I can find some mounts, I will soon do a write-up for these and I'll be using the "common man's tools", so everyone should be able to follow the procedure with the stuff in their garage.

 

[Jason84]

what i did was cut the rubber out with a hacksaw. or you can take a good torch and torch it all out. make 2-3 good cuts through the metal sleve that the bushing is connected to. then take a screwdriver or something like that and hammer it and seperate the sleave.. after you get it loose it usually comes out super easy... first time will take a bit.. my second car i did took about 45 minutes taking them out doing it and reinstalling.

 

[bwhughey]

I don't mean to be contentious, but a propane blowtorch can be had for $20 at any Ace Hardware or Lowes. If you find anyone selling a new Milwaukee Sawsall for less than a hundred bucks, i'll profusely apologize.

Over time, I've done a FULL kit of Energy and Prothane bushings on my 1G, including all subframes and control arms. It takes me about 3 minutes to get the old bushings out with my $20 blowtorch. To each their own, but the torch is a TON easier.

Regards,

Brad

 

[Jason84]

an acetalin (sp?) torch is alot easier to use... that takes the bushings out like instantly.. a propane torch doesnt work as fast. all it does is start it on fire and that takes hours to burn out.

 

[99gst_racer]

Exactly what he said. ^^^^

Propane does not get nearly hot enough to quickly burn the rubber out of the motor mounts. I personally experimented with propane on the mounts. It stunk up my garage with that thick nasty smoke and didn't really burn much rubber at all in a 15 minute period.

And like I said, most people don't have access to an oxy-acetylene torch like they do a sawsall.

 

[bwhughey]

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.

I would like to go on record, again, by saying I used a cheap $20 propane torch to do poly inserts on entire 1G AWD - control arms front and rear, engine mounts, subframe bushings - the works. It worked well, and fast. You can't burn out the stock rubber...that WILL never work. You have to heat the metal ring, NOT THE RUBBER, and they slide right out. If you're setting the rubber on fire you're not doing it the way I did. The idea is to melt the rubber at the circumference where it contacts the mounting ring. Why mess around with a Sawzall when there's an easier way?

What does anyone have to loose? Try it my cheap, easy way first. All it costs is $20 and some time. Heck, everyone ought to have a cheap blowtorch around the house anyway...they're great for soldering copper pipes, removing paint, burning out weeds in cracks of your driveway, etc.

If you have any questions about the technique, send me an private message and I'll respond.

Regards,
Brad

 

[GVR4592]

Are you guys that are burning the rubber out, leaving the metal sleeve inside of the mount?

 

[jastermerrel]

The point is to remove the inner metal ring. That is the only way the replacement urethanes will fit in. When they are heating the around the circumference of the inner steel ring they are causing the aluminum motor mount and the steel ring to expand. The aluminum expands more than the steel so it helps to seperate them. After it is heated up enough, it can be pushed out with relative ease. I wish I had tried it this way, I used a hacksaw to cut the steel inner ring then pounded away with a screwdriver and a malet. Heck, I had a torch next to me the whole time.

There is NO need to burn out the old rubber mounts. It is a waste of time, smells up the garage, and makes a mess.

 

[Jason84]

its not as easy as just heating it up and they fall apart dude...

my dad had a 20 ton press and that couldnt get them apart.

 

[99gst_racer]

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.

You can't burn out the stock rubber...that WILL never work. You have to heat the metal ring, NOT THE RUBBER, and they slide right out.

Most people in the past have burned the rubber out with a torch (not propane) so that they could get the the metal ring easier to cut it out. I personally have never burned the rubber out though.

I honestly don't think it is possible that a simple propane torch will heat up the mount hot enough to "slide" the metal ring right out, fully intact. Propane isn't even hot enough to burn the rubber away, let alone expand metal enough. I would love to see pictures of a fully intact ring and rubber "sliding" out of the motor mount.


I simply cut the rubber out of the middle, then make one cut through the metal ring, and then wiggle the ring out, prying slightly with a screwdriver. This process took me 15 min and costed nothing as I own a sawsall.

Maybe we should just agree to disagree (until I see some proof of your method actually working).