Upgrading from to4b V-Trim to EVO III?

[Boosted98gsx]

Haven't gotten to the compression test yet. I should have that done around 7. Here is teh log though with the changes you had talked about, A/f is right at around 11.5 or leaner. I couldn't quit get to 12 because I would get knock. I also added as much to the timing sliders as I could which ended up being quit a bit but during the run it din't ever clear 13 degrees.

Your timing graph hasn't been touched for this run, and you're actuall REDUCING timing from 6k on. Why? Make a pull, and subtract the timing you're making from 18 at a certain RPM, and then add that in at that RPM. If you start knocking, back off. These motors aren't wankel's, they can actually take a significant amount of knock before something bad happens, and increasing it to 18 isn't going to be enough to blow anything up, if that's what you're worried about.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Yes I know, that was exactly my point . According to Thomas (from DSMLink) while the actual hp/torque readings may not be accurate for you car (some do seem to be fairly close though & its best to test in 2nd gear) the repeatability between runs is pretty dame good (of course make sure to be using the same stretch of road in the same type of conditions). So in this way you can see gains/loses.

Yes, well there are a few cases where the horspower tool is almost right on with a dyno during a 4th gear pull. My friend has a 670hp AWD 2g, and his logs with dsmlink are right at that for peak. It's funny how that works out.

 

[daren_p]

As far as timing goes, the last post you have removed much less timing, which is a good thing but why are you removing timing at all, is the car kncoking? Your total timing seems pretty low, have you done a proper boost leak test recently? Also what does your air/fuel ratio curve look like on the wideband as your slider configuration looks a little strange with subtracting so much fuel in the mid rpms & adding it back in the upper rpms?

 

[JOEY A]

How long have you had link? Maybe you should go on the forum and find out some more info about it.

 

[elfroggo]

Maybe you should try tuning the car without water injection first. It might help isolate your problem

 

[2gGSX]

Does anyone else think that 4500 for full spool on this turbo doesn't sound right? Have you checked for exhaust leaks/cracking?

 

[krummel21]

Here are the 2 runs that I think you guys were asking about. One shows my water injection setup with timing set to zero and 11.5 a/f. As you can see with the timing set to zero I didn't gain any real hp and actually started getting knock.

If I understand you right, you would like me to change sliders so that I work up to 18 degrees of timing by 7000 rpms or set the timing from 3500 across so that it is at 18 degrees? In order to do this I woul dhve the timing sliders at +5 in some. But from looking at that run wouldn't you say that I would have an incredible amount of knock?

The other run shows my tune with out water injection. The run show 11 a/f, the sad part is I couldn't adjust those timing sliders at all. If I were to add any I would start getting knock and losing hp. I did a search on DSMLink forums and found that sometimes pepole do run 8 degrees of timing in there setup and thats the only way they can with out knock. I was however informed that you are to shoot for 18 degrees buy 7000 rpms.

I checked my system for boost leaks not to long ago and I had none. The fuel settings that I have are what I have seen done on many tune on the dsmlink forums. Are you asking me to set the fuel sliders to zero up to about 3500 rpms and then I should be able to make a flater looking fuel curve rather than a bowl or does it really matter since link is reading 11.5 A/F cross.

Theres alot there but I hope I answered all your questions.
Krummel21

 

[krummel21]

Here's the main questions from that post:

Should I work up to 18 degrees of timing from 3500 on or have it sI have 18 degrees from 3500 on?

From looking at the run with timing set to 0 wouldn't ou think I would have a lot of knock?

Should I set the fuel sliders to zero up to about 3500 rpmsto make a flater looking fuel curve rather than a bowl or does it really matter since the wideband is reading 11.5 A/F across?

I fixed an exhaust leak and the turbo is spolled by 4000 rpms.

Krummel21

 

[PieEyedPiper]

work up to 18 degrees, and its now 7:00Pm how did your compression test go?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

You need to have a progressive timing CURVE with a peak at 18 degrees where your airflow peaks at.

Krummel. Make sure your global and dead times are correct for you size injectors (680's). Your curve should not be positive on the fuel table in the upper rpms.

 

[krummel21]

I have the global and deadtime at like -.6 and -.4. Here's the results from the compression test.

Passenger -> Driver
175 175 175 155

Should I worry bout the one bing lower than the others?

Actually I looked at the fuel sliders and if you take the 7000-8000 sliders down to the 6500 slider level it is a straight shot I just have those down there. They really don't have anything to do with the tune since I only go to 7000 rpms. Which would mean that the 6500 slider is the last slider used by the ecu.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I have the global and deadtime at like -.6 and -.4

Uh, your globals need to be in the -30's and dead time around 310 or so....

 

[98GSX-WI]

I fixed an exhaust leak and the turbo is spolled by 4000 rpms.

Krummel21

Hey bud...can I ask...where exactly was the exhaust leak that you fixed? I'm having a little spooling problems of my own....and what to know everywhere to look (except I think mine might be a loose wastegate)...

 

[IPT]

Here's the results from the compression test.

Passenger -> Driver
175 175 175 155

Should I worry bout the one bing lower than the others?

Redo that one cyclinder, but before you check it put about two cap fulls of oil into the cyclinder and then do it. if your compression goes up most likely it is your rings in that cyclinder.

 

[krummel21]

No my global and deadtime settings are almost exact when compared to the manuel. With 680cc my global would be around -30 and a deadtime of 210. Here's the thread where i have went through this with the people at dsmlink.com. Thanks for checking that though.

http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8608

I keep having to check my o2 housing for some reason the nut on teh bottom front keeps coming off. So I bought another nut and put some lock tight on it this time and tightened down the other nuts and bolts on the housing.

If I redo that cylinder and put some oil in it and that does end up being the problem, how much do you thik that is hurting me? Should I really go through the hassle of getting the head off and changing the ring?

Thank you guys for all your help, I'm going to go back out today check that cylinder and add a bunch of timing and post a log to see what you guys think.

Krummel21

 

[krummel21]

I went out and did some more runs with the timing advanced to 18, or at least tried to get it to 18 all the way to red line but if I were to add more timing my knock would increase a lot so I left it how it was. Run 8 shows the timing with a 11.5 A/F and run 12 shows it with a 11 a/f. Tell what you think.

After I got back I did another compression test, this time with the car warmed up from the runs and I have 175 in all cylinders.

Thanks,
Krummel21

 

[krummel21]

Since my airflow seems low would cams be the answer, or would you say something else may be the cause? If so what size cams would you recommend? What is the going rate for the install of cams?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Since my airflow seems low would cams be the answer, or would you say something else may be the cause? If so what size cams would you recommend? What is the going rate for the install of cams?

Fix your car before buying more upgrades.

 

[krummel21]

Whats wrong with it? What can I do to get a higher airflow?

 

[daren_p]

Did you redo the compression test? & did you do a wet test? The one cylinder is 20 psi off, that is out of the factory service limit of 14 psi difference. If this is the case you should probably save your money for a rebuild.

When skimming through this thread Bosted98gsx said your fuel curve should be positive on the fuel table in the upper rpms, if Im understanding you correct and you are refering that the rpm sliders in the upper rpms should be on the positive side or curve positive that is incorrect. From the factory the cars run richer uptop, so you can remove more fuel as the rpms increase. Your rpm sliders should start ~ 0 in the low rpms & should increasingly remove fuel as the rpms go up. If your fuel trims are set correctly this should give you a constant air/fuel ratio.

I can't check your logs but how much airflow are you seeing and at what boost level? What can you do to get more airflow, simple: increase the boost, upgrade the turbo or install cams would be the obvious ways.

 

[slipstream808]

I'm also stuck on your spool up. Why 4000 RPM's? Shouldn't it be lower? And I'd try and figure out why that cylinder has lower compression than the rest. There is something wrong with it.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

yeah bro definitely try the compression again with the oil in the cylinder. Hopefully you will see a difference. Cams really help open it up and if you are staying in that range of turbo i would say go with some Comp 272+ (101200).

We have used the v-trim before and it has made plenty of power.

I am also glad to see Tuners is really coming through for you. Not much else to recommend that hasn't already been said. way to go tuners.

 

[krummel21]

I looked on dsmlink's forums and compared my 70-90 times and it looks like I would be running a 12.8 sec quarter. Would you that mean the estimted hp is right then or way off?

thanks,
Krummel21

 

[daren_p]

I'm also stuck on your spool up. Why 4000 RPM's? Shouldn't it be lower? And I'd try and figure out why that cylinder has lower compression than the rest. There is something wrong with it.

I think 4000 rpms is right in the ball park for the vtrim, they tend to spool slower then you think they would for the size of turbo.

 

[krummel21]

My airflow was 32.4 lb/min up top. The boost level this is at is a little weird when the temp are above 80 the boost leve is 19 psi and now that it has cooled down here and it's around the 75 area my boost level has dropped to about 16 psi with the same airflow. Don't know why this is doing it. I have asked about it in another thread and no one really knows.

Sorry I thought I had posted my updated result on my compression test on here but I must not have. When I did the first test the car was cold and not warmed up. I didn't know this was something that needed to be done. After warming up the car I had these results:

Passenger side -> Driver side
178 178 178 178

Sorry bout that.

My a/f has changed also. It is now zeroed from 0-3000 and then it goes to the -10 area from there on.

Whats a good hp estimation for running a 12.8 1/4. That is supposably what I would run with the 70-90 time that was in the log. I found a person with a 12.9 timeslip and he was running 345 whp and 319 tourque. If I can really compare the 70-90 time for a ruff estimate of my 1/4 mile time, then dsmlinks estimation is way off. What do you guys think of this?

Thanks for your guys's help,
Krummel21