To4B V Trim installation recommendations

[Anomoly#5]

I'm installing the V trim and I have some questions. I have heard after installing the turbo to disconnect the cam angle sensor, and crank the engine over while the oil drain is dissconnected from the oil pan to prime the turbo prior to initial start up? sounds stranged to me, but I figured it would not hurt to ask. I've only installed 14b's 16gs' etc..

Im installing this on a talon that currently has a full 3 inch stainless orange sliced 02 eliminator turbo back, with a Tial 40mm WG.

The bullseye housing was ordered W/out the wastegate flapper, and I was curious of the diameter that the housing comes with standard? and if it is neccessary to port the WG hole out to accurately control boost?

Thank you very much. Any installation reccommendations are very welcome
I've heard of problems with the compressor housing leaking boost and the oil drain that bullseye supplies not being long enough, but hopefully they've corrected that, I believe that I read in a thread where 1029TSG was going to correct that situation, correct me if I am wrong.

px.

 

[CanadianTSi]

You should prime any turbo before starting it, but you don't need to have the oil drian unplugged. Also I usually just pull the MPI Fuse.

 

[just_passed_you]

I DON'T CARE WHAT ANYONE ELSE TELLS YOU ABOUT THIS ONE THING:

The flimsy little mani to turbo gasket WILL BLOW OUT. Do it the "right" way, do it the "wrong" way... EITHER WAY it will blow out. Make sure the gasket you get is metal! The EVOIII gasket works like a dream. I'm in alaska, 2 of us have this turbo and both of our gaskets blew out. This means a good chance of broken turbo bolts, helicoiling the exhaust housing and serious headache!

Do it right the first time and get the EVOIII gasket unless Bullseye has the metal ones.

OTHER THEN THAT... misc stuff may or may not apply to you.

If you get the SS drain kit, it should be long enough, HOWEVER, the blue part that screws into the flanges on the end needs to be tightend up or.. you will leak oil.

Your oil feed to the turbo is either threaded or not. If it's not, make sure you get the flange, and if you get the flange... the oil feed (due to the thickness of the flange) will be too "tall" to clear the bottom runner of the manifold (ie 1g, evo, etc manifolds) So.. if it's not threaded and you get the flange/adapter piece, you'll need to get some 90 degree NPT fitting for the oil feed.

The oil feed off the oil filter housing (the little plug) is a PITA to remove. Heat that little bastard up for a couple minutes before you end up stripping it out.

The water pipe, either weld it up or get the NT water pipe.

You use the plug from the oil filter housing to plug a coolant line.

Make sure you clock the turbo so that
a.) your lower IC pipe will clear the motor mount
b.) you have enough room for your fan (it's close, or you could always murder the fan)

That's all I can remember, still trying to remember if it's the top or bottom hole on the oil filter housing that you use... hurm...
GOOD LUCK and happy boosting!!! This turbo is a kick in the pants!

 

[Skunked tsi]

I second the notion on the turbo to mani gasket mine lasted maybe 60miles and thats being generous.
Tyler

 

[Burnett03]

I DON'T CARE WHAT ANYONE ELSE TELLS YOU ABOUT THIS ONE THING:

The flimsy little mani to turbo gasket WILL BLOW OUT. Do it the "right" way, do it the "wrong" way... EITHER WAY it will blow out. Make sure the gasket you get is metal! The EVOIII gasket works like a dream. I'm in alaska, 2 of us have this turbo and both of our gaskets blew out. This means a good chance of broken turbo bolts, helicoiling the exhaust housing and serious headache!

Do it right the first time and get the EVOIII gasket unless Bullseye has the metal ones.

OTHER THEN THAT... misc stuff may or may not apply to you.

If you get the SS drain kit, it should be long enough, HOWEVER, the blue part that screws into the flanges on the end needs to be tightend up or.. you will leak oil.

Your oil feed to the turbo is either threaded or not. If it's not, make sure you get the flange, and if you get the flange... the oil feed (due to the thickness of the flange) will be too "tall" to clear the bottom runner of the manifold (ie 1g, evo, etc manifolds) So.. if it's not threaded and you get the flange/adapter piece, you'll need to get some 90 degree NPT fitting for the oil feed.

The oil feed off the oil filter housing (the little plug) is a PITA to remove. Heat that little bastard up for a couple minutes before you end up stripping it out.

The water pipe, either weld it up or get the NT water pipe.

You use the plug from the oil filter housing to plug a coolant line.

Make sure you clock the turbo so that
a.) your lower IC pipe will clear the motor mount
b.) you have enough room for your fan (it's close, or you could always murder the fan)

That's all I can remember, still trying to remember if it's the top or bottom hole on the oil filter housing that you use... hurm...
GOOD LUCK and happy boosting!!! This turbo is a kick in the pants!

he's right, my friends blew out in about 40miles i think... so he pulled the turbo off and broke a bolt off... 3hrs later to get the hardened bolt out and a week of waiting its running again.

 

[just_passed_you]

I think we should take a poll.. it's obviously defective, now other vendors aside from bullseye are offering this turbo with the same crummy gasket....

 

[TimG]

I just did this install last weekend. Here's the four keys.

1. Heat the oil filter housing for about 3 minutes with a propane torch before even attempting to strip the head of the allen key plug. I stripped mine and ended up taking the oil filter housing off and screw remover extracting it after 5 minutes of intense heat. Luckily I had an extra gasket kicking around.

2. Port match the O2 sensor housing. You'll creep for sure. The wastegate hole flange on the turbo barely matches up correctly with the O2 sensor wastegate flange.

3. Theres a problem with the internal gate. You'll see the issue when you get it in there looking at it. Nothing a washer can't fix.

4. The return line gasket on the pan doesn't have the right size hole to gasket match the pan. Modify it.

My question is this:

My turbo mani to turbo gasket was a thick chunk of metal. It wasn't 'flimsy' by any means. It was fairly thick. Is this the one that has a problem?

 

[tbTalonES94]

TimG you must have not gotten the crappy gasket we all got. The flimsy one they are talking about it seriously a peice of junk. Mine blew out in NO time. Now i have one of those nice thick metal gaskets they are great.

With the install:
I had no problems getting my allen screw out of the filter housing? It came out simple.

My oil drain line is just a tad too short but it worked, it is now starting to leak a drip of oil but i should be getting a revised line here soon.

I switched back to my N/T water pipe....it is the best way to go. The oil filter housing plug doesn't fit perfectly but....it works.

I haven't heard of the compressor housing leaking boost.....but when i did a leak test i was blowing air through the return line into the oil pan

Awesome turbo to say the least though