daren_p
DSM Wiseman
- 4,605
- 97
- Nov 22, 2004
-
Newmarket,
ON, Canada
Well according to your flow numbers you shouldn't be close to that hp or 1/4 mile time. Those airflow numbers indicate more like 320 crank hp. As for the boost moving around & your airflow numbers staying the same, something is up. I would get your boost gauge tested as your airflow should be directly related to boost. 32 lb/min sounds like your running more like 16 psi, at 19 psi you should be around 34 lb/min or slightly above.
As for your rpm sliders you are saying they are set to zero up to 3000 rpms, then the rest are at -10? This isn't how they are normally set. After say 3000 rpms you want to start removing fuel and you will continue to remove more fuel as the rpms go up to keep a constant air/fuel ratio. It's done this way since the air/fuel ratios get progressively richer as rpms go up from the factory. If what I think you saying is how you have the rpm sliders set, what does you air/fuel ratio look like, I can't imagine its to level?
Did you happen to take a look at the log I posted for you some time ago when you were first having knock issues and trying to figure out how to tune with DSMLink? This would have given you a good example of how the sliders should look.
As for timing, yes it is nice to see 18 deg of advance by redine but sometimes hard to do & not see knock. Note that if your inlet temps are above 84 F you will lose one degree of timing and same goes if your coolent temps are over 206, this makes it that much harder to see 18 deg by redline. Normally you won't have a problem seeing this much timing on a small turbo or low boost.
Edit: Took a quick look at the last 2 logs & you are seeing to much knock. You are getting much to agressive with the timing sliders, remember this is on pump gas, not race. Most only add a few degress of timing up top on pump, remember boost makes more power then timing does. Personally I would bring those timing sliders back down so your only adding a couple degrees of advance from 6000 rpms up, adjust those fuel sliders to get a nice constant 11 to 1 airfuel ratio, verify you boost gauge is functioning correctly & then maybe up the boost abit.
As for your rpm sliders you are saying they are set to zero up to 3000 rpms, then the rest are at -10? This isn't how they are normally set. After say 3000 rpms you want to start removing fuel and you will continue to remove more fuel as the rpms go up to keep a constant air/fuel ratio. It's done this way since the air/fuel ratios get progressively richer as rpms go up from the factory. If what I think you saying is how you have the rpm sliders set, what does you air/fuel ratio look like, I can't imagine its to level?
Did you happen to take a look at the log I posted for you some time ago when you were first having knock issues and trying to figure out how to tune with DSMLink? This would have given you a good example of how the sliders should look.
As for timing, yes it is nice to see 18 deg of advance by redine but sometimes hard to do & not see knock. Note that if your inlet temps are above 84 F you will lose one degree of timing and same goes if your coolent temps are over 206, this makes it that much harder to see 18 deg by redline. Normally you won't have a problem seeing this much timing on a small turbo or low boost.
Edit: Took a quick look at the last 2 logs & you are seeing to much knock. You are getting much to agressive with the timing sliders, remember this is on pump gas, not race. Most only add a few degress of timing up top on pump, remember boost makes more power then timing does. Personally I would bring those timing sliders back down so your only adding a couple degrees of advance from 6000 rpms up, adjust those fuel sliders to get a nice constant 11 to 1 airfuel ratio, verify you boost gauge is functioning correctly & then maybe up the boost abit.
