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Unsprung clutch disc. 4 or 6 puck?

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I would assume they're both the same price if you're trying to choose between them? I found a thread that you might find helpful. 4 Puck Vs 6 Puck.... What is the difference? - Mitsubishi Eclipse Forums It would seem the 4 puck is better for grip and the 6 puck is less harsh for drivability. to me this seems to hold true to the formula used to find pressure, that is:
Pressure=Force/Surface Area
assuming the same clamping force is being applied, the 4 puck will have greater pressure.
 
no problem:thumb: if you want my opinion, 20 bucks is 20 bucks and price is kind of important. a slightly cheaper clutch with a little more holding pressure sounds pretty good to me. I don't drive your car every day though, that's just my humble opinion.
 
Well, my job shorted me some money on my check today (gotta love that) so I was really short on cash. I was JUST about to order the 6 puck after that thread link that was posted but my check swayed me to do otherwise. That $20 difference is a lot right now. I'm hoping it works out good for me. I'll be sure to leave a review when I get it in, take pics, etc. etc. Sure SOMEONE is gonna wanna know how well it works out for when they have this same debate as me.

Just pulled my clutch and as suspected, popped another spring. Clutch is brand new (although I don't know the brand since it was installed just before I bought the car), and all the bell housing bolts were secure.

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my new clutch is giving me trouble, if you want more details read my thread "need help, slave cylinder related." do you think you could post a link to the 4 puck clutch you were talking about. if I need another new clutch, I'm not getting another stock replacement.
 
About to reply to your thread but here's where I got the clutch.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - ACT Solid 4-Puck Race Disc: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

Okay, I just got my new Fidanza and clutch in today. Was so happy to see it. Was surprised at how small it looked when I opened up the package but was happy to see the design and how stout it looks and the fact that there's NO SPRINGS in there. I tore apart my tranny today to make sure everything was good because I had been having trouble getting it into 2nd unless I shifted around 3k. Had to use some spare parts when putting it back together since someone has been in it before and failed to put some parts back in when they put it back together.

Anyway, trying to get it back in as soon as possible but don't like to work on my car in the dark cause it's way too easy to screw something up. Love these winter hours.....not!!! Noticed that my front and rear motor mount is bad as well so gonna have to change those asap.

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Old vs. New
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Just got it running and I have to say that I dunno what all the fuss is about. It's driving f'ing GREAT!!! Doesn't kick hard at all and can pretty much just drive it like a normal car. All I did was a Fidanza and clutch disc with Spec pressure plate and the power difference is very noticeable. I'm basically stock with a T-28 on stock boost levels and it's definitely a lot faster right now.

Use to have a really bad grind in 2nd gear that is totally gone now. Not sure if it was the type of fluid that was used before, the clutch disc, or what, but it's a pleasure to drive now. Only problem I have right now is no reverse so I'll have to check that later tonight.

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Installed. Act 4 puck, Spec PP, Fidanza, and FP flywheel bolt kit. Sorry, pic is off camera phone.
 

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Glad to see you finally decided on a disc and got it all together. Have fun with it!
 
looks awesome. why the studs on the pressure plate?
As for me, maybe next year I'll upgrade to something like this.
 
The studs are part of the flywheel bolt kit from Forced Performance. Since the Fidanza flywheel is thicker, they send ya longer bolts along with a plate so that they don't dig into the aluminum (which will happen when ya tighten em down without the plate). They also send ya studs that screw into the flywheel that the pressure plate goes over and then lock nuts to hold it down. And ya don't have to worry about them backing off. Well worth the money. Cost me around $50 or so I believe with the shipping and all but a good piece of mind cause I REALLY hate pulling transmissions.

Oh yeah, I was just thinkin about it. I'm sure the driveablility would be about the same but I thought it should also be noted that my FCU is still installed on my car at the moment.
 
Just wanted to post an update and say that I'm still loving the 4 puck setup. Changed out the busted motor mounts I have and didn't really notice any difference as far as easier or harder to drive. It's fairly easy over all and my favorite setup thus far. Easy to drive, no worries about popping springs, and grabs well under hard acceleration with no issues at all. I sure appreciate all the feedback and to JackM as well. You were definitely right about it being less harsh than the 6 puck. But still makes me wonder why everyone says just the opposite. Anyway, still loving it and thanks for all the feedback.
 
any idea on how many pound that spec pressure plate is, 2100,2600 etc? i have a 2600 pound act pressure plate in my car with a street disk, i really hate how slow i have to shift 1st-2nd. I was thinking of using the 4 puck after reading your post, also did u notice if the 4 puck is any thinner then the street disk?
 
The SBC sprung Kevlar disk is not expensive at all. It is a great choice.

Contact South Bend Clutch at: 800-988-4345

The part number you want is: 735 TZ Disc

The price is: $142.50 plus shipping.

101485d1255197485-hx35-clutch-choice-sbc-kevlar-clutch.jpg



I would strongly recommend using this clutch disk with the ACT streetlite chromoly steel flywheel, as it has a tendency to run hotter than an organic disk, and can cause the replacement friction surface on a Fidanza flywheel to bowl, resulting in uneven surface wear, and reduced torque capacity. The fix would be to replace the friction surface more regularly, OR not hot-lap the car or overheat the clutch regularly. The clutch material can handle the overheating and survive -- a good characteristic of kevlar disks. What happens is that you start getting clutch slippage, or pedal engagement variations (after break-in) when it overheats. How you fix it, is by allowing the clutch to cool down -- it will return to normal conditions.

This clutch disk handled 630AWHP/580-590TQ and 11/10-second passes with no issues for years, and alot of mileage/abuse.

I used my kevlar disk with an ACT 2600PP, and a Fidanza Flywheel.


Recommendation: SBC Kevlar disk, ACT 2600PP, ACT Streetlite Flywheel, new Mitsu TOB, new Mitsu Flywheel bolts with red loctite to proper torque specs, new master and slave cylinders, and a stainless clutch line.




Good luck,

Tim Zimmer

I just ordered this disc. I already have an act 2600pp and fidanza flywheel with a new plate on the way.

Its $175 plus 20 bucks for shipping for regular retail customers.
 
I just ordered this disc. I already have an act 2600pp and fidanza flywheel with a new plate on the way.

Its $175 plus 20 bucks for shipping for regular retail customers.

Yup, prices are higher now, as material costs have increased. I have updated my website with current pricing.
 
Only thing that scares me about that clutch is the springs in it. I swear, I'm so "sprung hub" paranoid after all the clutches I've had that have popped springs, that I just don't even care to risk it again. Especially knowing I can have an unsprung that drives about as well as a sprung street disc. If they make that clutch above in a unsprung hub, I may try it out though next time around.
 
Only thing that scares me about that clutch is the springs in it. I swear, I'm so "sprung hub" paranoid after all the clutches I've had that have popped springs, that I just don't even care to risk it again. Especially knowing I can have an unsprung that drives about as well as a sprung street disc. If they make that clutch above in a unsprung hub, I may try it out though next time around.

I can get it custom made with a solid hub; it is an additional $55.00 charge on top of the clutch disk itself.
 
I'm sure it'd be awhile before I'd need it but still something I can refer back to when it's needed. Thanks for the info.
 
well i installed my 4-puck over the weekend along wth a act streetlite flywheel and a 2600pp, no more notchey shifts or 2nd gear lock out but i dont know if its the 4 puck that solved my lockout issue or the fact that i didnt have the dowels inbetween the trans and block. Also jack m is definitlly right about the heavery pp making it easier to drive with a puck style disk, i remmember a few years ago i tried a 6 puck with a 2100pp and it was horrible, the car would wheel hop all over the place when i would try to launch it, but the set up i have now feels very streetable a launches nice and smooth
 
Yeah, I'm wondering where some of these people are getting their "rumors" from. Everyone on my local forum was all like, "good luck with that, it's gonna rattle your teeth out", and comments like that. Everyone I've ever heard talking about these clutches have always said that I'd wanna stay away from them cause they're so harsh. But heck, this is the best one I've ever been with.......and it doesn't even have a sprung hub to worry about. Oh, and I'm even on a lighter pressure plate.
 
So it's been a year that I've had it in my car and it's been working great. No issues at all. But recently I started having an issue and thought that I either had crankwalk or was about to throw a rod thru the side of my motor cause it was knocking so loud. Then I realized it was only doing it in 2nd gear and knew that it was a transmission issue, and indeed it was. The teeth on the 2nd gear had some teeth missing. I think it was ready to go anyway. The previous owner was really hard on the transmission from what people have told me that knew the guy and I've had it apart 3 times to replace parts and I haven't even been hard on it since I'm fwd for the time being anyway. It'd be pointless to be hard on a fwd since the tires would just spin anyway. So I'm done with it and getting half of the awd conversion done.

I had an awd laying around that I've planned on using for an awd conversion but it was missing the output shaft to the transfer case. A guy with the s/n of Barker in the local area hooked me up with the parts I needed so now my awd tranny is ready to go in. I'm stepping up to a QuarterMaster clutch (if it'll only get to me someday) since I'd need to swap flywheels anyway. Bought a VCE and it's installed and everything's ready to go in upon the arrival of the new clutch. But wanted to give some feedback and say that this thing has worked FLAWLESSLY since I've had it in my car. Great engagement, very VERY little chatter, and no worries of springs popping out. It's been the most worry free clutch I've had in a dsm to date. And I've been into them since about 97.

Anyway, aside from it working great, I'll point out that you probably shouldn't consider it lasting for a long time because it will for sure wear out the pressure plate and the flywheel surfaces. There's a step on both of them, where the pucks have worn into them. No overheated surfaces or anything, but more like where a dog runs in circles and wears a path into the ground. Lol. I'll try and remember to take pictures of it tomorrow. Everything still looks fabulous, but at the rate that it wears everything down, it wouldn't be much longer before something would need to be replaced. I'll post pics when I can but aside from me going to the twin disc setup, if I ever need a one piece clutch disc again, something like this is what I'll definately be going back to again. It's been very reliable and I'm very pleased.
 
Well it is time for a new clutch setup for me since the clutch I have is pretty worn down and the PP that used to be orange in color is now more than half dull metal colored. Anyways, after reading this whole thread, I was so ready to start looking into a 2600 series clutch and 4-puck with a chromoly flywheel but, after reading how quickly it all wore down, not quite so interested now. It was deffientely nice to hear that it improved the overall response of the transmission as far as notchyness and some gear problems. My plan for the car is to have roughly 325-350 to the wheels and be my dd. Does anyone have any recommendations for me as far as the PP and clutch goes? I have done some of my research already but I am still lost as far as what brand/combo to go with.
 
If you're worried about going with a puck disc, i'd go with the ACT unsprung street disc. Search around, and you'll probably see that every clutch out there with a sprung hub has popped a spring. ACT, Spec, etc. Every one that I've seen/used has popped one.
 
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