Unsprung clutch disc. 4 or 6 puck?

[AlaskanDsm]

That sounds kind of unsettling. I just want to replace the clutch with one that is going to hold up while I build my car. I don't want something that will wear out within a year like the 4-puck that you just ran. Although it sounds amazing, I need something that will last a while longer as a DD and will take the abuse.

You recommend the street discs from ACT as unsprung? I tried looking at their website but that was the one link that wasn't working for me here at work as well as their flywheel. Now as far as their clutches go, the heavy duty is like the 2100, Xtreme like the 2600, and Maxx Xtreme?? not sure exactly how that is setup.

Found out they have a chat feature that I am using

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I did a little searching on here for ya and found the part number for the solid hub street disc.

DESCRIPTION:89-99 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE TURBO,PART #3000310

Now as far as the street disc is concerned, it'll hold the power you're looking for. Thing to keep in mind with a street disc is that you need a heavier pressure plate for more power. With a puck disc, you don't need a pressure plate that's as heavy. With a street disc, if you overheat it and glaze it, it's glazed. Just get it too hot one time to where it starts slipping and kiss the clutch goodbye. A puck disc can take more abuse but it's gonna wear more on the flywheel and pressure plate. Puck disc are generally lighter and easier on the syncros and better if you have any shifting issues....like I did. I'm sure the solid street disc would be lighter than the normal disc since there's no hub in the middle with all the weight.

It's hard to get a "best of both worlds" type of clutch. But sure that either of these will do just fine for you in a solid hub, with the goals you have.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Thanks for the information! I am looking into ACT's setup for the flywheel and 2600 with probably the same street disc. It is a good starting point. I also found out that the 4-puck will wear the attached components faster than the street disc. So for my application, I will probably just go the route of a street disc.... even though that 4-puck is VERY enticing minus the wear.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Sorry it took so long but I finally remembered to take some pictures today. You can see where the clutch wore into the pressure plate and flywheel. Clutch disc itself still looked to be in pretty good shape but I'd estimate about another 6 months of use before it would've worn into the hardware of the flywheel. More abusive launches would shorten that I'm sure but I didn't really launch hard with the fwd and all. Anyway, here's the pics, but like I said before, I'm really pleased with this clutch.

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[lenhof13]

How many miles did you put on the 4 puck before you pulled it ? How many launches? I have ACT 2600 with a stock disk and flywheel. I think a spring is popped. It disengages fine, then when i get to where im going it stops disengaging. Then im diving home with no clutch. I am thinking about just getting a ACT 4 puck, and putting it back together cheap to get the summer out of it. New ball and fork of course.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Not sure how many miles I had on it. Hard launches? Well, MAYBE 3 times at the most because it's sooooo pointless to launch hard on a fwd with street tires from a standstill. Right now I have a Quarter Master clutch with an awd transmission (half of my awd conversion completed), and although it's perfectly streetable after being broken in, I still like the feel of the 4 puck better. But honestly, the next clutch I wanna try out is a Act 2600 with an unsprung street disc. I remember back in the day when Shep was running amazing times on the Act 2600 WITH springs. So sure it'd do really good with an unsprung disc and no worries of popping the springs, with perfect streetability. Sure it'll be awhile before I go that route though.....let's hope.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Personally I would never run an Aluminum flywheel(even if it has a steel surface plate)... But I seriously wonder what it would have looked like if you would of ran a Steel Flywheel(Stock, Act, etc.)...

EDIT:
Reading back a bit farther an refreshing my memory, I guess it was recommended to you... .

 

[v8s_are_slow]

It wouldn't matter which flywheel I would've ran cause the friction surface is the same. Not sure why you wouldn't run one, but okay. Everyone has a preference I guess.

 

[MY1GDSM]

It wouldn't matter which flywheel I would've ran cause the friction surface is the same. Not sure why you wouldn't run one, but okay. Everyone has a preference I guess.

Maybe you should read back to What Tim said earlier in the thread(your threads fairly old an I know I missed it myself till after I commented) ....

Just because the contact surface is the same doesn't mean that it will wear the same (think about it you have something made of two metals that have different expansion rates)

 

[lenhof13]

I just took the talon out for a rip. Clutch was great, i dont get how it can shift perfect then break then fix its self.

 

[ziggo0]

When you guys are taking off from a stop (not launching) are you guys slipping the clutch or revving it a little while slipping? I noticed my 6 puck unsprung is extremely violent if i don't slip it a bit..it's out after a 1000 miles for a dead transmission and looks slightly glazed. I'm just worried I'll kill it due to trying to get going

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I've driven mine like a normal street disc. Although it was a 4 puck.

Oh, and on another note. I gave my entire clutch and flywheel setup to a buddy of mine. He's driving on it everyday and has a long way to go to get to work. Lot of stop and go traffic too.

 

[97gst_spyder]

+1!

If I don't slip enough during light takeoff, the whole car starts shaking violently.

 

[ziggo0]

+1!

If I don't slip enough during light takeoff, the whole car starts shaking violently.

Yea I'm not that lucky, it just grabs so hard it dies if I don't be nice when taking off from a stop. I got a sprung 6 puck coming to make it less violent on my transmission/passenger