Typical 1g BOV behavior, problems?

[GSLENK]

So I installed a fmic and was tempted by the knockoff greddy that came with it. I am also going SPEED DENSITY, no maf (already installed).

I decided I wanted to vent my bov until I come up with a clean recirc path, (new intake, new bov location...) When i was test idling my car I could feel the bov blowing out air! I looked in there and saw the valve open at idle. I figured Im pulling too much vacuum and its opening up. (this was the greddy knockoff) I tightened the spring down, and it was all pretty much good. but still leaked a hair at idle. Then i gave up ant went to the faithful 1g bov with less than 30k on it. It was worse!!! It just let air flow out. And theres no adjusting it. My idle was around 1000 or lower ( i leave it set around 900). I thought if anything it would be sucking air in.

Does all metal fmic piping and a no maf 3" air intake make the car sound like its leaking under boost? It sounds like I rev the engine (under load in gear, turbo spools, then I hear a serious air rushing sound, then of course the blow off after I let off the gas.

I did a BLT, and my biggest "leaks" are at the 1g bov @ ~22psi and the mbc (I just screw it all the way in for tests it holds. The leakdown is very slow. Ill get bored watching my boost guage leak down to 5psi. it takes a pretty long time.
I had some guy do aluminum welds on some pipes. HE sucked. there are pinholes everywhere but they leak very slowley, and ill braze them or something later i dont think they are significant right now.

I dont plan on making over 22psi anytime soon. Do I need a new bov or am I just over reacting to the new sound of my whole intake/fmic setup?

Ill get a vid up if I can take a HQ sound clip.

 

[92AWDHX40]

The pin holes are annoying my welder did a ok job the blt showed many leaks.MAybe you need another bov the 1gs are cheap enough on ebay.

 

[GSLENK]

The bov was fine when i was running maf, the car was 100% stock. I guess the recirc tube had something to do with it by keeping all the air in the system.

Any better way to test the bov for load leaks? It passed the BLT, at 22 psi it started to open. should be the same under load conditions right?

Ill just use an aluminum braze, or solder or whatever to seal the welds.

Are there any BOVs that dont leak at idle? I was looking into the hks ssqv... looks like it has a complicated diaphram system to eliminate low/high boost leaks.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I have a greddy never known it to leak at idle, how about another 1g, only one way i know of i do the whole system.

 

[Alex42590]

that happen to mine on my 1g bov when i had it venting, swapped with my faithful greddy rs and voila

 

[airmail96]

It's normal for the 1g bov to leak at idle, I think the only way to fix that is buy doing the dodgemod to it.

 

[Alex42590]

yea i guess its normal because its meant to be recirculated then your maf takes care of it

 

[GSLENK]

It's normal for the 1g bov to leak at idle, I think the only way to fix that is buy doing the dodgemod to it.

Im gonna buy another and do just that i think.

Im pretty sure I got the problem diagnosed. IDK why it happens yet, but heres the rundown, its most noticeable in first gear.

-Put it into gear at low rpm, 1-1.5k.
-Floor it.
-all engine power till ~2.5k
-turbo starts to flow to 0 boost/vac.
-big turbulent sound, sounds like a leak rpm still around 3k-3,250, no additional power felt. boost is building probably around 5-8 psi
-full boost builds (mbc set to ~12 psi) turbulent/leak sound stops, at ~3.7k-4.2k rpm, leak free boost kicks me in the ass, strong and resembles the proper turbo/engine efficiency/performance range.
-if I let go before full boost is achieved I never see full power, feels like fuel cut...

this is so ghey. never did this before the fmic. I did a BLT, and I do have pinholes in some welds, but they should be relatively insignificant. they are a slower leak than the mbc at its capacity.

 

[kmarttalon]

check to make sure you didnt knock any electrical connections loose which is a possiblitly

 

[Talondvr]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/96185-wobbles-guide-setting-up-your-bov-properly.html

This might be of some help. I'll be readjusting mine as I just switched to vented.

 

[GSLENK]

that would be of great help... if my 1g bov was adjustable. I tried with a knockoff greddy, I had mild success. I still didn't like it too much, and it still leaked at idle w/ both springs in. It 100% sealed up when I screwed the adjustment all the way in, locking it shut. obviously this is not a good idea.

 

[Tyeler18]

I'm vented on a 1g bov and don't have any leaking at idle. None of the symptoms you are having either.

 

[GSLENK]

I'm vented on a 1g bov and don't have any leaking at idle. None of the symptoms you are having either.

you 100% factory? When i first had the car it was fine, no leaks, pulled strong, power built up with boost. Then a boost guage, everything fine, then mbc/wideband everything fine, down pipe fine. FMIC, not fine. IDK what would cause the bov to leak so badly.

The flange didnt seal right with the 1g bov, even with the gasket. I used some rtv to take care of that. Sprayed her down with soap water, no leaks.

The only thing I can think of is if that little hole next to the release valve could be plugged, or partially blocked with rtv. I tried to keep it out of the area but it could have expanded/spread. Where does that hole lead? between the valve and the diaphram? above the diaphram?

 

[Tyeler18]

you 100% factory? When i first had the car it was fine, no leaks, pulled strong, power built up with boost. Then a boost guage, everything fine, then mbc/wideband everything fine, down pipe fine. FMIC, not fine. IDK what would cause the bov to leak so badly.

The flange didnt seal right with the 1g bov, even with the gasket. I used some rtv to take care of that. Sprayed her down with soap water, no leaks.

The only thing I can think of is if that little hole next to the release valve could be plugged, or partially blocked with rtv. I tried to keep it out of the area but it could have expanded/spread. Where does that hole lead? between the valve and the diaphram? above the diaphram?

I'm running SD and a vented factory 1g bov, bolt ons with a 16g etc, so not much more than what you have.

 

[GSLENK]

Sweet. (well for you... not for me...) I guess its time to start terminating problems. I guess a reflange is in order (mine is truely crappy). A new bov, and some aluminum brazing.

Are there any BOVs out there that dont leak? is there an end all bov? I was thinking Tial 50mm? some people run those parallel to another bov (of a different type) why is that?

 

[constant_proj21]

I did the old crushed in a vice 1g bov on one of my previous cars, and never had a leak, even at 25psi. Otherwise get yourself a Tial Q, and rest easy.

 

[GSLENK]

The TiAL does seem like the instant $200 cure-all. except a lot of fiddling with springs/shims etc. It DOES have V-band so there should be no pain in removal and installation for springs... just a little time consuming (5 min.) Also it looks like it does flow better.

Just so i am getting this right ... the general consensus is Tial is the end all for all high hp (and all hp) applications. and it doesnt sound ricey in the process. (some sound just cant go away..)

And then hks and the other sequential bovs, then the 1g, then all the pos loud bovs?

Im leaning towards Tial, garage mod 1g/ leak free kit, or hks.

Time for a poll....

ALSO

would blocking the reference port off or restricting it with silicone(accidentally if at all, I was careful...) cause the bov to seal better or worse? release faster or slower?

 

[GSLENK]

I found that the "reference port" actually opens the valve when it sees pressure coming in. (used a air compressor to blow on it, (not fully sealed just blew over the hole closely)

And when you block it you get compressor surge from 0-6 ish PSI.

DDG mod time. I just cant get around it.

 

[shadyspeed90]

i keep hearing of the nightmare idle probs on a stock maf with a fmic and bov not recircing into the system. i was told of a gm maf to replace the factory with and it would stop the idle surge problem. ive also heard you can do the same effect by doing a speed density conversion. could someone please shed some light on either or i can go any direction i just dont want to do all the work to put on the front mount and the hks sqv and have it run like $h!t. so if someone could help me out it would be appreciated. this is my first dsm car and i gota say theyre pretty bada$$

 

[GSLENK]

that didnt help me at all... you should have started a new thread but heres your answer... get ecmlink. get speed density. in factory config its pretty much plug and play.