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Twin scroll T3 manifold

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Hey guys, it's Joe from Red Jack. I personally weld all of the manifolds that we produce so I can answer any questions you may have. Please forgive me if I missed anything.

The manifolds are as close to equal length as possible without cutting any "cheats". There is really only so much you can do in regards to runner length given the location of the turbo.

A forward facing turbo gives a bit more flexibility in the quest for equal length runners.

Keep in mind, it's not all about length of the runners, but rather the amount of bends it takes to get to the turbine housing. Even though each bend is cast to retain the I.D. throughout, it still creates turbulence. Therefore temperature and velocity is changed. But that's a whole other thread :)

As you can see our manifolds tilt the exhaust housing away from the block compared to other companies. This allows proper clearance for this big old holset oil drains. Some guys like to run -12 and as we all know, -12 doesn't like to make abrupt bends. It also allows clearance so that you don't have to dent your water pipe and have easier access to remove, install, and service the turbo while it's on the car.

With most of the tubular manifolds out there, it's not a good idea to run the stock 2g radiator hose. I'll have to check on how close the Red Jack Racing manifold sits to it.

Sch. 40 tubing is 110% not necessary for tubular manifolds. It's only a band-aid for improper welding technique. It's not any more expensive than sch 10. piping either, as some vendors would like you to believe. It weighs a ton too.

Red Jack Racing is currently not a vendor on the here so I cannot speak of pricing or anything like that. However, brokentsi is a vendor and will sell you our product whether it be an open t3, divided t3, or divided t4.
 
Usually, it is. I can only speak for Joe at RedJack on this one.....he will allow you to send your turbo to him so he can help you out with a downpipe. :dsm:

This is awesome and will most likely be my next project to pursue. If you could PM me either your or his contact info I'd appreciate that.
 
Not to take this too far off topic, but are any of you guys doing anything with heat prevention? Anyone done/doing coating or wrapping?

Absolutely needs heat protection. My manifold is a bit thicker than most out there and, left bare, my manifold would radiate enough heat to bubble the paint on my hood. I've since wrapped it with DEI's lava rock heat wrap and I am actually able to touch the manifold briefly after some spirited driving.

I see a lot of pictures in the gallery of people running tubular manifolds unwrapped and uncoated and it baffles me how it works for them...
 
Absolutely needs heat protection. My manifold is a bit thicker than most out there and, left bare, my manifold would radiate enough heat to bubble the paint on my hood. I've since wrapped it with DEI's lava rock heat wrap and I am actually able to touch the manifold briefly after some spirited driving.

I see a lot of pictures in the gallery of people running tubular manifolds unwrapped and uncoated and it baffles me how it works for them...

DSM Bottom Mount Exhaust Manifold - JM Fabrications

click warranty info and it says:
Warranty Information
This item carries a 5 year warranty to the original owner. Heat wrapping is NOT recommended and will void the warranty.
 
Adam, you don't have any issues regarding how hot it gets with it unwrapped?

Punishment's warranty doesn't prohibit wrapping or coating, and I needed to do something about the heat. I searched a good amount concerning both options and they have their pros and cons.

Trapping moisture is a big concern for heat wrap, while coatings are susceptible to flaking and are not as effective as wrapping. But, the manifold carries a lifetime warranty and my car is parked in a garage that has low humidity. On the other hand, trapping moisture is the reason I didn't wrap my downpipe, which is custom-made and does not carry any sort of warranty.
 
Adam, you don't have any issues regarding how hot it gets with it unwrapped?

Punishment's warranty doesn't prohibit wrapping or coating, and I needed to do something about the heat. I searched a good amount concerning both options and they have their pros and cons.

Trapping moisture is a big concern for heat wrap, while coatings are susceptible to flaking and are not as effective as wrapping. But, the manifold carries a lifetime warranty and my car is parked in a garage that has low humidity. On the other hand, trapping moisture is the reason I didn't wrap my downpipe, which is custom-made and does not carry any sort of warranty.

not yet, I Haven't had this manifold for the summer yet so ill see how it goes once summer hits again
 
I've always wanted the bottom mount JMF but I skipped away and wanted top mount Shearer.. May have a deal through a friend once he goes FF but we'll see.

yeah its a sick looking manifold for sure, I love the way it s built, but fitment is a bit better with the Redjack, I wouldn't have had to dent my water pipe and theres more clearance for the radiator, and I do like the WG placment on the RedJack a bit better too... but its really not a big deal either way, both are quality, and my car is far from stock LOL
 
yeah its a sick looking manifold for sure, I love the way it s built, but fitment is a bit better with the Redjack, I wouldn't have had to dent my water pipe and theres more clearance for the radiator, and I do like the WG placment on the RedJack a bit better too... but its really not a big deal either way, both are quality, and my car is far from stock LOL

Lol, I understand that. I'm running a Scirocco radiator and not too much of a fan with messing up the water pipe, may not be too much of a hassle/worry, but trying to stay away from that. But that's why it's either a Shearer Top-Mount or Redjack. Wouldn't mind to see other Top-Mounts made though :thumb:
 
Just to verify that the Redjack manifold does indeed have a divided collector for the twin scroll setup. I haven't seen any pictures of one off the car and want to make sure.

Thanks everyone for the pictures and info! It's really great to see what's out there and that I have some pretty high quality and great looking options :)

In relation to the o2 and downpipe, it's rare that I see anyone doing something other than custom. This is what I'll be doing as well considering I want a full v-band o2 housing, downpipe, and exhaust.

dexterholland04 and dragonov_elite - is it physically impossible to run a 2g radiator (as in upper hose would hit the manifold), or is it just not really recommended because of how close the upper hose would be to the manifold?

Not to take this too far off topic, but are any of you guys doing anything with heat prevention? Anyone done/doing coating or wrapping?

Brian, I would say that is is impossible to run a 2g radiator due to the location of where the upper radiator hose is located. The stock fan would not work either, because it is way too bulky. There is only an inch or so of clearance between the number 4 runner and the upper radiator hose. You would do better to modify a Finn 1g radiator, due to where it locates the upper radiator hose (further to the left). A shrouded civic radiator would also work well.
 
A few more pics of the Redjack TS T3 manifold.

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As far as a radiator I would say to stick with a 1g style outlet to keep from melting a hose.
 

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Not that it's factory made, but here's the prototype I made for mine. I made it out of a stock 4g63n/t mani, in an afternoon of pissing around. I wanted to see if it was going to be worth the effort, to build a nice one. (It wasn't.)
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As you can see, the runners are not equal length, but with the length they are and the rpm's we run it's not much of an issue. I made this manifold to get a HX35 in as high, tight, and to the left as possible. There was plenty of room for a DP, I fit a stock drivers side fan, and the oil drain wasn't too bad. It also uses 1 gate and it was recirclulated. Those all would have made it super hard to get equal length primarys. I'd entertain the idea of making a nice one from stainless weld el's.
 
I'd just like to point out we've made a few revisions since the above manifold was made. Welding has improved drastically. We are now using an industrial tumbler to get an even finish on the weld elbows (doesn't matter too much after a heat cycle but it does give it a better initial appearance). We are now having "Red Jack Racing" engraved in the head flanges and the design on the flange has since improved a bit.

We are constantly trying to improve our products and i'll try and post up a picture of a manifold that was just completely (previous to the new head flange design).
 
Do you make your own head flanges, or do you buy ones and then brand them? I'm also wondering how the ports on that match up with a gasket if someone is able to grab a picture. Not that I'm doubting anyone's work, but just like to cover everything :)

In the past we were buying them from SLS and flange place down in florida. Now we are having one single CNC shop do all of our flanges to make things a bit more streamline. Our ports are a hair larger than the stock cast ports. Reason for such is core shift. Each head varies a small amount and we take that into consideration. I'll add that to the list of pictures, just bare with me!
 
Anyone using the OEM TS evo cast manifolds and a t3 adapter to make a cheap TS? Would have to remove AC and relocate the alternator. This made it impractical for me. Seems like a very cheap and easy route if you're not running AC. I see evo manifolds for $50-75 all the time.

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