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turbo whine?

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erald01

15+ Year Contributor
661
1
Jul 6, 2007
canton, Michigan
Well on my way back from work i blew an intercooler coupler (ebay cheap crap), but i had to drive the car home with a hole on a coupler(had no choice). The car ran so rich that half of my gas tank was gone in 30 min drive, but i ended up getting home changing the coupler, but i noticed that now the turbo whining is more noticeable at 3k rpm. Do you guys think i hurt the turbo while drivin the car back home with a blown coupler? Or it sounds like that now because the coupler i put is better than the old one which was all wrinkled from heat?
 
i have blow turbo's before from I C P blowing apart. it pretty much over spins the turbo causing it to brake. found my turbie wheel in my down pipe.:dsm:
 
well yea its posable. wnen your under boost there is a resistance against the turbo. if a pipe or cupler blows the turbo will over spin. mine was a brand new bullseye power v trim. good thing i bought the warenty.( sorry about the spelling):coy:
 
If it's not burning oil out the exhaust then the turbo is probably ok. But go ahead and pull the intake pipe and check it for shaft play. While you have it off do a boost leak test as this is the most likely cause and in turn will overwork your turbo.
 
The car ran so rich that half of my gas tank was gone in 30 min drive, but i ended up getting home changing the coupler
Hope you changed your oil too. If not, you'll be changing rod bearings next because half of the extra gas you used is now in the crankcase.

Excess turbo noise occurs when shaft play either allows the wheels to touch the housings or the journal bearings aren't well-supported by the oil they're riding on. There's a chance that you could change the oil and the problem will cease- if not, the journal bearings are hosed. It may be a good idea to rebuild the turbo now before the wheels do nail the housings.
 
So far so good no shaft play whatsoever and the turbo is clean inside where the turbine wheel is. I did notice a tiny bit of rusty color where the turbine wheel rotates but i think thats just a normal wear from the wheel. The bad thing is that my oil stank like gas so i drained the oil out and i am leaving the car overnite so all of it is fully drained.
 
The gasoline in the oil totally wiped out the oil's film strength. The sound you were hearing was probably the journal bearings in the turbo contacting the center housing because the oil was too broken down to support the shaft. Hopefully you caught it in time!
 
Be sure you have no boost leaks either, once I had a crack in one of my couplers and it sounded like turbo whining after a certain rpm once it built like 10 psi.
Boost leak test.
 
Well this is what i did so far and still the whining noise.

1)changed the oil
2) changed the coupler
3) checked for shaft play (zero play whatsoever)
4) no black smoke coming out of the exhaust
5)turbo looks clean on the inside


After all these i am still not getting the power that i had. When im at WOT the car will boost to 18psi then pull hard(plus a huge boost spike back to 11psi), the car it is not pulling as its building boost. BTW the turbo whine shoes up at 1 psi sometimes at 5.
 
Thats exactly what my b16g did before it went out,
It built boost really slow, and didnt hit much after that, still made power though.
But on the dyno it put down 1psi right after idle, seriously!
The reason for that is the turbine tolerances are so close that it spins a lot faster than if it were 'ok'.
 
The thing is that it will build boost fast, (going by the gauge), but the car reacts after the boost has been build not pull as the turbo is bulding boost. At idle it sits at vacum -25 psi, which is normal. I'm just gona kick my ass one more time and remove the bumper and check all the couplers, and if thats okay then i guess its time to shop for a new BIGGER turbo. BTW do you guys know if there is a warranty on this things? It hasn't even been a year since i bought mine. I got mine from buschur racing.
 
It's difficult to find any shops that will warranty a turbo very long because there are too many variables. For instance, if your rod bearings are taking a dump and it's continually putting metal into the turbo, no one in their right mind would keep giving you a free turbo under warranty.
 
Well i am gona shoot for a 50 trim and any ideas what the best one is? There is a million threads on 50 trims but didn't seem to find the right one which shows the best one for the buck. I am looking to spend $800 or less if possible.
 
The thing is that it will build boost fast, (going by the gauge), but the car reacts after the boost has been build not pull as the turbo is bulding boost. At idle it sits at vacum -25 psi, which is normal. I'm just gona kick my ass one more time and remove the bumper and check all the couplers, and if thats okay then i guess its time to shop for a new BIGGER turbo. BTW do you guys know if there is a warranty on this things? It hasn't even been a year since i bought mine. I got mine from buschur racing.

Visually inspecting the couplers isn't sufficient. They may look tight but still leak under boost. Build yourself a boost leak tester, pressurize the intake and check for leaks as described in the tech section. The boost leak tester is the best $15 you'll ever spend on your car.
 
Well i am gona shoot for a 50 trim and any ideas what the best one is? There is a million threads on 50 trims but didn't seem to find the right one which shows the best one for the buck. I am looking to spend $800 or less if possible.
It doesn't matter, they're basically all the same.

At one time I had (3) different 50-trims at my shop....a SBR G50, a PTE 5031E, and a Turbonetics 50-trim. The compressor wheels were ALL identical, and each turbo had a different-looking turbine wheel (fin shape appeared slightly different among all three) but they all fit into each other's housings (you could put the G50's turbine housing on the PTE turbo, etc.)

I could see if you were getting a ball-bearing 50-trim, but the journal-bearing 50's will not differ from one another to much of a degree. Shop for the best price & customer service!
 
Thats what i am trying to do get the best price. To be honest i like the SBR g50 that seems pretty decent in price. BTW 50 trims will bolt right on my evo3 manifold correct?
 
As long as it's listed as a "DSM Bolt-On", then yes. Two of the three 50-trims I had at my shop fit a DSM manifold; the other had a T3 exhaust housing.

The G50's are made by Turbonetics for SBR, so you're buying it from a proven manufacturer.
 
Importevolution's 50 trims seem pretty cheap, and they are turbonetics. I think it said $750 or so for one. Not bad, considering that i paid 600 for my evo3. Darn it i should have gotten one from get go.
 
Extremepsi has the cheapest 50 trims, in fact their 60-1 are the same price.
....and THAT is the reason so many guys over-buy when it comes to their turbo purchase. It's so hard to NOT get the biggest one available when they're all the same price!

It's best to keep your cool, and don't look at a turbo's price tag thinking that by going as big as possible you're making the right choice. It will just end up costing you a small fortune later!
 
Yeah but i got all the supporting mods from the get go, so i would have been fine with a bigger turbo than a evo3, but everyone is sooo attached to them that i was pretty much talked into one. Btw do you guys think my 680cc will support the 50 trim?
 
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