Turbo oil feed hole stripped....Helicoil?

[Death_Trap22]

The hole that feeds the turbo oil from the corner of the head is starting to leak after my 16g install.

Turns out the bolt had alot of metal shavings on it and now the bolt wont screw in tight....it just spins.

So i have a tap and die kit but i dont want to make the hole bigger so i am trying to helicoil it but dont know what size to use...all they have at advanced auto was "m8 x 1.25" and it looks too small...

any advice?

Anyone think the master helicoil kit would do me any good?
its a $100

 

[the_mork]

I don't think you need to spend $100 on something like that, if you take banjo bolt to home depot or a parts store you can try to find the right pitch and size. For a $100 you can probably get a new used turbo.

Edit: Advanced auto parts should have a bit more but your better option would be to try and find a more professional supply store that might have a better selection. Either way if you find the right size just about anybody should be able to order it for you and save you some money.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

I don't think you need to spend $100 on something like that, if you take banjo bolt to home depot or a parts store you can try to find the right pitch and size. For a $100 you can probably get a new used turbo.

Edit: Advanced auto parts should have a bit more but your better option would be to try and find a more professional supply store that might have a better selection. Either way if you find the right size just about anybody should be able to order it for you and save you some money.

Statements like that will likely warrant you bad rep points. You are 100% wrong.

I had the EXACT same thing happen when I was first getting into DSMs. The threads on the head (turbo oil feed galley) are VERY thin aluminum. Any kind of slanted insert while trying to install it, will cross thread the CRAP out of it. You went wrong by installing the line on the turbo and THEN trying to install it on the head. The inner threads on the turbo are iron. You will break the bolt before cross threading the those threads. A WAY cheaper issue. Next time you do this have a friend help and install the on the head FIRST and then while your friend holds the turbo in place install the bolt on the turbo and the rear water banjo bolt. Then install the turbo manifold and attach the turbo to the manifold to hold it in place. Install the oil return line. IF YOU REMOVED ALL FOUR BOLTS FOR THE OIL RETURN LINE. Put the oil pan-side bolts in first and THEN install the two lower ones in the turbo. The oil pan strips just like the head does. Lastly install the forward water line bolt and finish up reinstalling everything else you took out.

NOW, back to your problem; There is good news and bad news. Good news is the heli-coil will fix it. There is no other way around it. Buying another bolt will not work. The bad-news, the plauge of this problem is the next time you try to remove the banjo bolt from the head. You will instead remove the heli-coil. I had a reputable machine shop install mine. And it did that. They had to go back in there and use a bigger thread size to make it work again. Eventually I got another head, as you will too. Just make sure you don't make the same mistake.

Oh almost forgot.

There is another alternative. Feed the turbo from the oil pump side. And either a) Weld the hole in the head shut or b) use the helicoil and put in a regular bolt to seal it. Just make sure to use teflon tape on the threads to make sure no oil get around the threads.

One last thing. The 1g N/T and 1g Turbo heads ARE EXACTLY the same. The N/T heads even has the thread hole for the turbo oil feed line. It just has a solid bolt in the place of the Banjo Bolt. Just make sure to swap over your cams if you get an N/T head. N/T heads can ALOT of the times be found cheaper.

 

[the_mork]

^ I meant to get the right size helicoil not to replace the banjo bolt.

He had a choice of a wrong sized helicoil or an expensive multi-kit, I meant he should take the banjo bolt in to find the right size and thread pitch helicoil to get. He should be able to find the right setup for about $20 instead of $100.

I did read the post incorrectly though and thought he meant that the turbo was stripped not the thread.

 

[JusMX141]

You have two choices:

- HeliCoil the bolt hole to the proper 10mm x 1.25 thread, then reinstall it using the 1G hard metal line. A specialty tool store will have the proper HeliCoil kit...don't waste your time at Advance or AutoZone unless you're in the market for a snazzy new air freshener.

- Drill the bolt hole slightly and tap it to the same size as the oil supply hole in the turbo (12mm x 1.25). You'll then need a stainless oil supply line with two 12mm banjo fittings and banjo bolts to do this....one for the head, and one for the turbo.

 

[Death_Trap22]

Laserspeeddemon.....jusmx141.....

You guys are proven members for a reason:
laserspeeddemon...you couldnt have painted a better picture of me on a friday afternoon. Thank you for showing me what i did wrong and how to do it right.

jusmx141...thank you for telling me what are my options and how to deal with them...

 

[diggerzmound]

One option similar to the helicoil but longer lasting and more permanent is the thread insert.

There is more than one company that makes these, they are a solid insert, so you can use green loctite to secure them in place so they don't back out.

The kits are around $80 for one size with 5 or 6 inserts.

Thread Inserts

 

[JusMX141]

Fine-thread bolts a quite prone to stripping....ESPECIALLY those in aluminum.

With the threads on the head being aluminum, I'd recommend intalling a HeliCoil as a permanent repair. The stainless HeliCoil inserts will provide a wear-resistent thread surface, and all the standard hardware will work (oil line, banjo bolt, copper washers).

The HeliCoil kit for 10mm x 1.25 threads (part # 5543-10) costs $41.95 at my workplace....it comes with the tap, (12) thread inserts, and the tool that installs the insert into the hole. You'll need a 13/32" drill bit, which would cost an additional $5-$10 if you don't have one in a set.

Be sure to clean all of the shavings out of the hole before before installing the banjo bolt or your turbo will die instantly.

 

[Death_Trap22]

The HeliCoil kit for 10mm x 1.25 threads (part # 5543-10) costs $41.95 at my workplace....it comes with the tap, (12) thread inserts, and the tool that installs the insert into the hole. You'll need a 13/32" drill bit, which would cost an additional $5-$10 if you don't have one in a set.

Be sure to clean all of the shavings out of the hole before before installing the banjo bolt or your turbo will die instantly.

Where do you work because i cant find that size anywhere, i checked advanced, autozone, murrays, home depot and menards.

my last options are lowes and napa....if they dont have it i'll have to wait a couple days if i order it from amazon.com for $37.

 

[JusMX141]

Small, independent parts store. I've been here almost 11 years.

You're finding out why the little guy has the edge over these huge chain parts stores....you could go to every Advance in your state and they'd all stock the exact same kit that the other Advance did- we stock all sizes from 4mm x .70 to 14mm x 2.0 in Metric, and 8-32 fine to 3/4" coarse in SAE thread.

You have to watch prices at the chain stores, too....they'll be cheaper on one thing but GOUGE you on another. Just a week or so ago I was in Pep Boys on a Sunday grabbing a quart of Synchromesh for my buddy's car. Pep Boys was selling a gallon of Lucas Oil Stabilizer (p/n 10002) for $38.99. The SAME GALLON at the independent store I work at would set you back a whopping $23.95. I could see if we were talking about a rare item....but why would the chain store be more expensive than an independent on something like that?

 

[Death_Trap22]

Thanks for all your help...looks like i'll be hittin all the small independant auto shops !