CanadianTSi
DSM Wiseman
- 5,270
- 59
- Aug 12, 2002
-
Kingston,
ON, Canada
Thats exactly what I said...
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I did that, and have no creep problems. It's supposed to hurt turbo efficiency though.Chadillac2000 said:well to cut the creep down to under 20 would porting the divider away be useful, ive heard mixed opinions about how even though decreasing creep it also decreases flow?
I have decided not to be pushy on this thread but I will give it another shot since you seem desperate for an answer. IMO there are two effective ways of dealing with boost creep, porting and external wastgate. Many on this site had successfully solve creeping with just porting. My 16g used to creep to 25psi+, after porting the turbine housing PROPERLY (mainly the inlet), it was able to hold 14psi to redline in every gear and only boosting 1-2psi with the actuator arm off. I've also helped many in solving creep through porting. If you're interested in pursuing this route, post back and we can discuss further. If you read the thread I've provided earlier, you would see although he had multiple problems overlapping, at the end the porting did it's job. The problem with sbr's respones is that you most likely will creep much higher than 20psi if you're already creeping to 20psi with the cat. Good luck.Chadillac2000 said:Alright nobody was really able to answer my question directly on here
What SBR and most $90 port job offered by vendor focuses on enlarging the inlet to increase flow and improve spool up. The main problem with boost creep is the entrance of the wastegate path in the turbine inlet. If you look straight down the turbo inlet you will see that the wastegate entrance is kinda hidden, exhaust will have to make a almost 90 degree turn to enter the wastegate. The key is to knock off as much material as possible on top of the wastegate entrance in order to expose the entrance so there's a direct path to it when the flapper opens. Without doing this, anything you do after that like O2 dump, external wastegate on O2 and your 34mm flapper will not be a guaranteed success. You also want to port the area behind the flapper to allow it to open more. If you've done this properly and you're still creeping, an external wastegate mounted on manifold like what rowlex showed you would be the only thing left to do. Good luck.Chadillac2000 said:i would be very interested in you explaining exactly what you mean by porting PROPERLY on top of what slowboy already ported, thanks
Chadillac2000 said:i was wondering i put my test pipe back on (which i heard will net a noticeable gain) will i get the same creep again
Chadillac2000 said:that was part of the question, but the majority of it was will simply turning up the boost to 21 or so psi cure the problem, but thanks oldman i guess ill try the porting to ensure no creep
Once you have it out, open the flapper and you will see that the lever that holds the flapper makes contact with the path wall preventing it from opening all the way. Knock off some material behind the lever to allow the flapper to open till it's parallel to the flow. Keep in mind while you do this that you want the flanges to mate as perfectly as possible so take off just enough and not more. Since you've decided to do this, I would like to remind you again that the key is in the inlet. Have fun.Chadillac2000 said:I'm droppin the turbo out tomorrow, i understand what to port on the inlet side of the turbo just not exactly sure what you guys mean about porting so the flapper can open completely but not enough to break the seal, does anybody have any pictures, that would help the most
Sure, port match the manifold collector to your turbine and both to a 7cm gasket. If you choose to do this, I don't see any reason not to, make sure you measure the 7cm gasket and make sure it's 7cm before you proceed. As I found out through my last purchase, not all 7cm gaskets are made equal.Chadillac2000 said:i do have a 34mm flapper so i guess i should just focus mainly on the inlet, is there anything else i should do while the turbo is pulled
I would also suggest not to assume the flapper area is already ported just because a 34mm mod was done on it. The key is to make sure the flapper opens to where it's parallel to flow, no more no less, to maximize flow and cut down the cross section for possible disturbance. All this might be confusing now but once you have it off, things will become more clear.Anti-seize on the re-install, don't make the same mistake twice.Chadillac2000 said:Alright dropped the turbo today, what a biatch, took off my exhaust and have it all ready to just weld the test pipe right in there, ran into some bad news, had two of the turbo to exhaust manifold bolts seize up on me, and finally resorted to breaking them off, then when i tried to drill them out there was no chance, i guess im gonna have to take it to a machine shop tomorrow, ,
I'm not saying Slowboy did a bad job, I'm saying most of the time when vendors say "port job", they're not talking about boost creep.but as far as slowboy's port job it was just as OLDMAN said, the air has to take an extreme 90 degree turn right into the wastegate opening
I have put my reputation on the line here. I ask that you post pictures of the turbo before you call it complete, let's make sure it's done right.I really hope this cures the creep or controls it somewhat

oldman said:I'm not saying Slowboy did a bad job, I'm saying most of the time when vendors say "port job", they're not talking about boost creep.