Turbo down gradeing

[RedGST98]

I currently have a H1E T4 with external wastegate on my 98 GST FWD. It's a great and I mean GREAT turbo but WAY to much tq for what I need. I still have the factory clutch that I will be upgrading to hold more tq but as it's a FWD theres no way to keep freaken traction on that thing. I punch it and yeah. smoke the tires but no traction there for no speed in the long run

I have the setup running off of factory psi settings and still can not keep it under control when WOT.

What do you all suggest would be a good turbo? It is my DD and looking for 400-500hp but still wanting to be able to keep the tires on the road and not just spin them out every WOT.

Suggestions would be great. I know I could theather the gas and not just punch it and it would be great but when someone pulls up to you , you just want to let it all out. I was thinking 20g but not sure as personaly its kinda small but I know I need to down grade from the H1E.

How much difference do you all think a GT35 or even a HX35 would really be from the H1E?

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

The turbo you have is already a good choice for exactly what you described. If anything you want more lag to compensate for the traction. But no matter what you do your going to spin like a mofo with that kind of power on a FWD.

Going to a smaller turbo is only going to make the situation worse.

 

[My1GLaser]

Haha, yeah the HX-35 is gonna probably be worse. I can spin all 4 in 2nd with no problem. I can spin 3rd gear if I really try.

I would start searching making your FWD have more traction. dsm-onster had a ton of info about doing that a few years ago.

Tire width & pressure, rear suspension stiffness, energy suspension bushings, prothane motor mounts, equal length driveshafts, LSD insert or full LSD, lots of positive front caster, neg front camber, lowering springs, drop the rear of the front control arms so they are lower than the ball joint.

Check Whiteline.com for good info. I am more familiar with a 1g which has Macpherson front strut set up and IDK what the 2g has for control arms and front struts.

 

[Seamus]

Well you are no where NEAr 400hp running stock boost pressure, so if you htink it is bad now, 400 hp is going to be much worse.

 

[RedGST98]

The turbo you have is already a good choice for exactly what you described. If anything you want more lag to compensate for the traction. But no matter what you do your going to spin like a mofo with that kind of power on a FWD.

Going to a smaller turbo is only going to make the situation worse.

What would you suggest.. lower boost there for less power at the wheels but still allowing for a good grab and take of?

Well you are no where NEAr 400hp running stock boost pressure, so if you htink it is bad now, 400 hp is going to be much worse.

yeah i hear ya...

 

[bryanwheat]

A good quality lsd differential, equal length half shaft mod, drag radials, adjustable front struts and poly bushings should help out a ton.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

What would you suggest.. lower boost there for less power at the wheels but still allowing for a good grab and take of?

An LSD would make the biggest improvement on the street. Slicks for the track. Also boost control by gear would help.

You don't want torque to come on so fast in a FWD. This can be controlled by boost and also the tune. But it usually isn't a problem with bigger turbos unless you have it spooling extremely well.

I get surprisingly decent traction on the street in my GST with an HX40 at 23psi. Big thanks to the quaife LSD. Haven't had the chance to tune it yet for higher boost. But the LSD made a massive difference.

 

[turboglenn]

I battled FWD for years, even went with a full quaife LSD in a TRE trans, coil overs to balance weight..etc..etc...after 400hp no matter what you do aside from slicks you're just not gonna hook up..


Hence the part in my stats that says "(AWD Swap)"

THat's the fun of a high p[ower FWD, that white knuckle, fighting for your life through third gear roasting tires untill 100MPH... ( i miss that but the shear pull in 1st and 2nd now that i'm AWD is the best!@!)

HOnestly an AWD conversion is cheaper than you'd think and easier than most make it soiund too...anyone with a decent mechanical knowledge and use of or acces to some one with a MIG welder makes it a piece of cake.. I"m crippled-up/disabled and live in massive pain and finished mine in 7 days flat withg a helper that did everything so bad i had to re-do all his work, and it still cameout perfect..

I traded old turbos and manifolds and other parts for what i needed from wrecked cars and spent under 300 bucks total including oils, gaskets and the like when i did my swap... just gotta bargain hunT!!!!!!!

 

[MichaelSuch]

Going AWD is the only way.. Traction is getting stupid at just 300hp. Go AWD or deal with the wheel spin. As said even an LSD, tires and suspension can only do so much, once you hit full boost you're still going to spin through third and possibly fourth at 500hp.

 

[RedGST98]

Alot of good suggestions and options.. I thank you all very much. Quick stupid question. Has anyone messed with the ECU-based Boost control available in the link v3 yet?

Does this work with a normal setup or do you need an electronic boost controler to make this work?