Tune Up Suggestions?

[stuntboy43]

Alright so i have researched this topic on here and came up with alot of different answers, which i guess you'll have being that no ones cars are exactly the same.
Im purchasing my first DSM, a 1990 eagle tsi awd, and before I drive it I want to take car of all the basics.
The car has 158xxx miles on it. It has a 3" TBE with a hollowed cat. Third gear sychro is starting to go, not a big problem just gotta double clutch it down shifting, will get it fixed as soon as i save the money. ACT 2100 clutch
I gather tht most people on here preffer:
Mobil 1 Motor Oil
Gm Sychromesh Tranny Fluid
NGK Plugs
MSD Wires
OEM Timing Belts
Either a BSEK or OEM BS Belt
Royal Purple Rear End Fluid

Im sorry this has become almost a repitive question but like I said different cars require different Tune ups. I was wondering if anybody else thats running a similar setup (mostly stock 1G AWD) In my climate zone can tell me what there using. Im just trying to get all my answers in one place from a reliable source. Any other suggestions on what I should replace or check would be helpful also
Thanks,
Barry

 

[LKWTSI]

although I'm running some extra mods, that you're not mentioning doing?, I have just got finished doing a complete flush and renew of my fluids in the drive train.

I used Redline products and have never had such dramatic improvements in a fluid as I did putting this product in.

Doing some research on the stuff and reading other threads, I saw most people getting marginal results from BG Synchromesh. I used Redline MT-90 in the transmission and I could have sworn I had a brand new tranny. The gears slipped through shifts like silk. I put in Redline Shockproof in the transfer case and rear end and the only thing I'll tell you about that stuff is, make sure you don't try and pour the stuff in, unless you've got a friend to help you, 'cause you'll be under the car for a while. It's the thickest stuff I've ever seen going into a car. You'll have to make sure you soak the bottles in hot water to get the stuff to run through your filler tube. If you do it in a cold environment the stuff is like syrup. No obvious results like the MT-90, but very confident it's doing a great job.

 

[stuntboy43]

Thanks for the advice and the hot water tip and as of right now im kinda tapped for cash right now because i just got it so no performance upgrades at least until the next tune up

 

[eagle_talon90]

If the timing belt hasn't been replaced recently or you don't know when it was last changed then it would be a good idea to change that as well.

 

[knochgoon24]

If the timing belt hasn't been replaced recently or you don't know when it was last changed then it would be a good idea to change that as well.

5th item on his list...

I'd also do the fuel filter and air filter.

If you really want to get into it, you can take off the intercooler and piping and clean all the excess oil out of it, especially in the intercooler. It will help it exchange heat better.

 

[kenamond]

Boost leak test. Then fix all the leaks. I agree with cleaning the intake tract out. Intake pipe, lower and upper IC pipes, and the intercooler itself. While you're cleaning and/or boost leak testing, check the turbo shaft play. In/out play is bad. Some side/side is normal as long as it's not excessive. Wheel should spin freely. If you see problems and don't want to grenade the turbo, look into a rebuild kit and rebuild it or send it off. Kits for a T25 are $80, but I don't know if it's the same for a 13g or 14b.

 

[stuntboy43]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I just read the thread about building a boost leak tester and am going to get the materials tomorrow. As for the fuel and air filter i forgot to put them on the list but am definetley getting both . Any suggestions on what type of air filter to run and possibley the most effective first mod is? Ill have approximately $200 after the purchase and tune up and just need a general idea of where to start with the car. As i understand it exhaust manifold really doesn't do much on these cars (sorry im a former honda guy).

 

[kenamond]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I just read the thread about building a boost leak tester and am going to get the materials tomorrow. As for the fuel and air filter i forgot to put them on the list but am definetley getting both . Any suggestions on what type of air filter to run and possibley the most effective first mod is? Ill have approximately $200 after the purchase and tune up and just need a general idea of where to start with the car. As i understand it exhaust manifold really doesn't do much on these cars (sorry im a former honda guy).

I'd build the boost leak tester and do that test. If nothing leaks, you're done. If something leaks, that'll require some of your $200. When you're done fixing the leaks, go from there. Fluid changes, new plugs/wires, etc. will also subtract from your nest egg.

Air filter: I like my K&N FIPK with the clean-able filter element. However, if you upgrade to a cone filter, you're going to get an unexpected rise in intake air temperatures. The stock filter box breathes all of its air from the passenger side fender well. A cone filter breathes its air from the engine bay, which is 20*F hotter in my case. I want to construct a cold air dam (it's a vertical wall separating the filter area from the engine bay that seals to the hood so that the filter will tend to bring air from outside of the engine bay).

The fuel filter costs $20 if you keep it stock, but I've heard folks' horror stories about getting the banjo bolts loose. I've not changed mine yet; I just ordered a pump-to-fuel rail upgrade kit, and it includes a much more free-flowing filter. So all of the stock plumbing from pump to rail will be replaced with larger lines and AN-06 fittings.

Another cheap upgrade is the fuel pump rewire. You can get all the parts at Radio Shack for (guessing) $30. It's just wire, a relay, a fuse holder, and a few crimp connectors, modest soldering skill, and a couple hours.

When you do the timing belt, take a look at your harmonic balancer (aka crank pulley) that drives the alternator, A/C, etc. They wear out, and the inner part starts separating from the outer part (connected by rubber that eventually fails). If that's bad, it's $100+ for a new stock one.

 

[stuntboy43]

I want to construct a cold air dam (it's a vertical wall separating the filter area from the engine bay that seals to the hood so that the filter will tend to bring air from outside of the engine bay).

Let me know when you do this and if your up to a tech write up of what materials you used, the specifications and such, because this is something I would be interested in doing as well.
Thanks for all the advice. I must say the DSM family consists of alot nicer and more knowledgable people than other other car family i have seen. Keep up the good work

 

[knochgoon24]

Let me know when you do this and if your up to a tech write up of what materials you used, the specifications and such, because this is something I would be interested in doing as well.
Thanks for all the advice. I must say the DSM family consists of alot nicer and more knowledgable people than other other car family i have seen. Keep up the good work

A write-up you say? As you wish.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/194759-diy-cold-air-intake.html
I cannot take credit for this write-up, just the fact that I used the search function

 

[habitatguy187]

Might think about seafoaming it also, although it's kinda high mileage. I'll leave that one up to you

Skateboard/rollerblade bearings to replace your shifter bushings, any bearings will work. Might be a good idea to bleed the clutch too.

 

[Dsmj89]

Don't forget to use mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 or 10w-40 FTW.

 

[habitatguy187]

Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners