Translab Shift Kit + IPT end-clutch kit install and results

[VETDRMS]

Hi, I am new here to this forum, but not so new to cars. I bought this 97 TSi AWD automatic a few weeks ago and have been scrounging through post after post and tech guide after tech guide on this little car and I have to say it has been a lot of fun so far. I think this will make a fun new project car. I have been messing around with an old Corvette for the last few years and its about to the point where I want it so it is refreshing to have a new project.

About 2 weeks after I bought the car the overdrive just disappeared one day, after searching through the forum I found out it was most likely the end-clutch so I ordered an end-clutch kit, the Translab shift kit, and a new modified manual valve from IPT.

The install was pretty straight forward as long as you follow the directions, and are certain that you clean everything very well. The seal on my end-clutch had split causing it to not hold pressure and all the clutch material was gone where that break was in the seal. I completely dismantled the valvebody and thoroughly cleaned everything before reassembly.

The end clutch kit was the easier of the two as the whole assembly just pops out and you can replace the clutches with little effort.

The shift kit took quite a bit longer as I was meticulous about cleaning everything and keeping everything all together. The instructions that come with the kit are thorough and have good diagrams should you misplace something.

I will post some pictures of the clutch damage and some install pics as soon as I get a chance, provided there is interested in such as there are already some very good guides.

I filled the transmission back up with 8.5 quarts of Amsoil Universal ATF per IPT recommendations. I use Redline High Temp ATF in the Corvette as its high stall (4200rpm) can get the tranny pretty hot (it has been over 260F after three back to back 1/4 mile runs), and the tranny (and fluid) is still in great shape.

The results: Fantastic! The car shifts much faster and more firmly, but it is not uncomfortable or excessive at all. It no longer feels like a jumpy CVT!

If you have an automatic and you are looking to upgrade the motor, start with the transmission, from what I have found you need to build it up first and the shiftkit/end-clutch kit is a good start to keeping it together (don't forget, a new one is $2800).

The next thing to get your automatic to move faster?: a higher stall converter. I plan to do this next and may document the install and create a guide if there is interest.
I can now brake-stall the car and launch with a full 13lbs of boost.

My fiancé is going to race this car in the sport-compact ET class so the automatic + AWD is a PERFECT combo for bracket racing. I think the automatic can be a great transmission for these cars with the right mods.

:cheers:

-Travis

 

[drivemusicnow]

Don't forget to pay attention to the temperature of your transmission. I see you have a gauge at least on your corvette, however with the fact that the DSM is AWD, that adds more heat into the fluid. I would suggest buying a temp gauge, and possibly install a larger aftermarket cooler depending on the results.

Higher stall converters mean more energy being absorbed by the fluid in the form of heat. Any automatic owner should at LEAST have a gauge, and probably have an external ATF cooler.

Oh and a "Newbie" that can type, search, AND contribute? Now THAT is impressive.

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

Very nice! I'm about to do this exact same procedure for mine (in addition to installing my external cooler and gauge). How long did it take you from start to finish and how difficult would you rate the job?

 

[VETDRMS]

Hi Greg, thanks for mentioning that, it is a very important component in keeping you automatic transmission alive, especially if you plan to do "mods."

I have been looking at coolers and I have not decided on which one I want to use yet. I am also trying to decide which gauge pod I want to use (instrument bezel or a-pillar). I am migrating my LMA-3 setup over to the Talon so I can log Wideband O2, Tranny Temp, RPM, Boost/Vac, and Throttle Position.

The torque converter in the corvette is a 9.5" billet unit that flash stalls to 4200rpm but will stall at 5200rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear under WOT, and it builds a LOT of heat. When I tried to make three back-to-back runs at the track the temperature was over 260F at the inlet of the cooler! One good run from 0-100mph can increase the temperature at the cooler from 180F to 220F (We're only talking about 8-9 seconds, that is a LOT of heat in a short amount of time). I have nothing but praise for the Redline High Temp ATF (Although it is a Dexron/Mercon fluid, and it may not be a good idea to use with these transmissions). Even after it had been heated to well over 260F I let the car cool down and made 10 more runs that day, and 150+ since then with no sign of slip.

For those who are interested torque converters and what they can do for these cars these two links have some good solid information that will explain the basics.

http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_understandtorqueconver.cfm

http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/torque_converters_explained.htm

They allow the motor to reach its peak torque (or close to it) and create a fluid coupling that can (for a brief time) multiply the torque output of the motor.

At cruising speed the clutch lock-up inside the torque converter actually creates a mechanical coupling which reduces the heat generated from the fluid coupling. Many "race" converters do not have a lock-up clutch because there is not room for (or pressure) for a big enough clutch to maintain that mechanical coupling under extreme loads.

I think I should also mention that a "hard" shift in an automatic actually is better for it. By design the automatic transmission is supposed to provide an effortless and transparent gear change (most people don't care what it does, they just want it to work and to not bother them...sad, I know), but the sacrifice when approaching this is managing the heat and wear associated with this controlled "slip." ATF has various friction modifiers that assist this smooth operation without significant clutch wear. You may have heard of people using Ford type F fluid to reduce transmission temps, shift firmer, whatever. This is because the type F has a more aggressive friction modifier that "grabs" the friction material better and creates a more positive shift. The point of a "shift-kit" is to increase the pressure applied to the bands during shift (and to also speed up the process) which in turn limits the amount of slip when gear change takes place. The line pressure is increased by modifying both the spring rates of the valve in the valve body as well as modifying the plates between valve bodies.

The Translab kit is a very thorough kit that does a lot for these transmissions, and you may open the box and think "I paid $84 for 8 springs and 4 little balls!!!!?" but remember that the testing process is elaborate and frankly, people deserve to get paid for their ideas (within reason of course!).

I am trying to decide which turbo I want to put on this car and right now I am leaning towards the T28 with a higher than stock, but still mild torque converter. I think it would make a killer combination with the automatic with a 3000rpm or so stall. I will document the torque converter install when I get there, so stay tuned.

 

[VETDRMS]

Very nice! I'm about to do this exact same procedure for mine (in addition to installing my external cooler and gauge). How long did it take you from start to finish and how difficult would you rate the job?

Well I have to first say that the time it took me was beyond what it "should" take a competent mechanic...

A friend owns a shop and he let me borrow his lift, I would HATE to have done this under the car on jack-stands, so if you can use a lift, do!

I did not know where any of his tools were and I was taking pictures every three minutes and taking the time to lay everything out for the pictures so in total I spent about 10 hours working on it before I drove out of the shop. I left at 3AM and by 11PM I was getting pretty tired so progress slowed drastically from that point on...

The hardest part (if you are doing this by yourself) is lowering the valve body and removing the solenoids while your holding it up. It is heavy and you shoulders will be burning in short order, all the fluid inside the valve body running down your arms while your doing it is not much fun either. If you can, have a friend help you, it will make it a lot easier.

Also, if you have a camera handy, take pictures as you disassemble everything, it will help upon reassembly.

Here's a helpful tip that makes reassembly a breeze, cut some cardboard squares out, and as you disassemble the valve body draw and outline and label the cardboard (upper valve body, lower valve body, valve body to transmission, ect) and insert the bolts into holes you punched in the approximate location on what your disassembling. There are a TON of bolts on the valve body and they vary in length so you NEED to reassemble them correctly! The translab kit provides a good diagram with bolt lengths should you not make maps, but I still recommend it.

Most of all: TAKE YOUR TIME, double check your work, and clean everything really well. A sticky valve in the valve body is NOT your friend.

Good Luck, and happy tire-frying with the FWD! It may just chirp between shifts...

OH, and use the BLACK SPRING.

-Travis