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2G TPS adjustment

eclipsyco

10+ Year Contributor
582
15
Nov 19, 2011
Somewhere in, Central_America
Ok so reading around the forum i collected this info:

The whole purpose of adjusting the TPS on a 2G is to make sure that the Idle Position Switch inside the TPS is telling the ECU when the throttle is closed.
2G's critical adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS.

The manual has you place a 0.0177" (0.45mm) feeler gauge between the stop screw and the throttle pulley to open the butterfly and then adjust the TPS right to where the IPS (pins 3 and 4) switches from closed to open.

Then they have you verify that the TPS (pin 2 and 4) reads between 0.4 and 1V while the feeler gauge is still in place.
Anything in that range is ok as long as the IPS is adjusted correctly.

There is no way to adjust the TPS voltage independantly of the IPS on a 2G that I can see. (from Steve)

1. Loosen the 2 TPS screws.
2. Put a feeler gauge of .0177" under the stop screw
3. Turn the car to the ON position
4. Rotate the TPS until pins 3 & 4 lose continuity (open)
5. Verify that the voltage between pins 2 & 4 is .4-1 volt with the feeler still in.
6. Tighten TPS bolts and remove feeler gauge.
7. Verify that the pins 3 & 4 have continuity (shorted) when the throttle is closed and don't have continuity (open) when you open the throttle slightly. (knochgoon24 and Steve)

But still I have some questions!
For this to work properly the SAS (stopper screw) it has to be properly adjusted right?

And how am I supposed to get to the TPS .63v then if I'm only adjusting the IPS e.g if I rotate the TPS until I loose continuity on pins 3 & 4 I'll be way off on the TPS volts even if I'm in the range of 0.4 - 1 volts.

I'm posting this because I'm having some weird problem and I'm pretty sure it's the TPS is the problem. I use DSMlink to simulate but I rather fix it the way it's supposed to be fixed.
Thanks

Oh and one thing more why should I turn the key into on I can check continuity with the car off and the tps unplugged. Right?

Please guys! Anyone? Second thread in a week that I post with not a single answer. Help me out here!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

bigpatofpa

Proven Member
38
2
Sep 17, 2007
collegeville, Pennsylvania
I'm doing a 1g tb on a 2g just replaced the shaft seals . According to v faq you can set the tps with a digital multi meter, while it is off the car. I will be installing it tomorrow i'll let you know how I make out .
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
15,001
1,801
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
But still I have some questions!
For this to work properly the SAS (stopper screw) it has to be properly adjusted right?

And how am I supposed to get to the TPS .63v then if I'm only adjusting the IPS e.g if I rotate the TPS until I loose continuity on pins 3 & 4 I'll be way off on the TPS volts even if I'm in the range of .4 - 1 volts.

why should I turn the key into on I can check continuity with tha car off and the tps unplugged. Right?


Yes the SAS needs to be correct. If you have touched it, disregarding the warnings in the manual, then you'll need to fix it first.

On a 2G you can't adjust the TPS voltage if you use the factory adjustment procedure and a 2G TPS sensor. What voltage are you seeing when the IPS is correctly set?

If you use (DSM|ECM)Link way of adjusting to 0.63v then you'll likely have to simulate the IPS. In my limited experience I've never seen 2G (DSM|ECM)Link have issues with a factory adjusted TPS. I suggest asking Tom and Dave (and only them, since you want facts not opinions) why it would.

Step 5 is the only time when the ignition should be on and the TPS plugged in.
 

eclipsyco

10+ Year Contributor
582
15
Nov 19, 2011
Somewhere in, Central_America
I'm seeing 0.59v with the IPS adjusted correctly!

The PO messed with the SAS because the car had a bad ISC so I assume he moved it to keep the throttle open a little and screw the BISS all the way in (I don't know the reasoning behind this but pretty sure that's what he did).

Since then I replaced the ISC, the BISS and adjusted the SAS just like the VFAQ says (screw it in untill it touches the throttle stopper and screw in 1 1/4 turn more) so I then I adjusted my TPS volts with link to .63v and simulated the IPS. Should be enough?

Should I just live it like that and don't mess around with it anymore?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

eclipsyco

10+ Year Contributor
582
15
Nov 19, 2011
Somewhere in, Central_America
Ok guys! So I did it was tricky but is totally possible...

I'm going to post this in addition to Steve's post so anyone out there wanting a proper idle without simulating idle switch and adding offsets in the TPS tab in DSMLink. Call me perfectionist but I wanted to have just as it came from it's mother.

This is for 2g guys mostly, since we have the TPS and IPS in one sensor:

1. Loosen the throttle cable.

2. Remove the SAS (stopper screw) move the throttle by hand and feel if it sticks when fully close if not clean your throttle body or check the spring if it's strong enough to return the throttle properly.

3. Adjust the SAS (stopper screw) like the VFAQ says, turn it until it touches the throttle stopper and from that point, turn the SAS clockwise another 1 1/4 turn.
The way I did it is to mark the screw driver with a pen or something and fully turn it once until I see the mark again and then just 1/4 more (half of a half turn) and tight the locknut. At this point the throttle should not be sticky any more.

4. Here it's where it gets tricky. Loosen the 2 TPS bolts and get your computer and start logging, log idle switch also make sure that your TPS adjustments and simulate idle switch is unchecked under the RPM/TPS tab. Now turn the TPS until you get the 0.63v and tight the bolts (go easy on this bolts).

5. Put a feeler gauge of 0.0177" under the stop screw. If TPS voltage stays 0.63v turn the SAS clockwise until you see 0.65v, tighten the locknut again remove feeler gauge it should go to 0.63v and idle switch to 1 from 0. If it does then your set. If not loosen the TPS bolts and turn it until you see 0.65v while the feeler gauge is still there and tighten the TPS. Remove the feeler and turn counterclockwise the SAS until you see 0.63v your idle switch should be at 1 don't forget to tight the SAS locknut.

6. While still logging tighten your throttle cable gently be sure the the TPS and idle switch are the same after is tight (0.63v, 1)

I just did this today and worked great for me I hope this is helpful for somebody else too.

The reason of doing this is because if you simulate idle switch and have some offsets in DSMLink probably it means that your throttle body might be open a little and have idle surge or for the guys that have turned the BISS screw al the way in and still can not get the ISCposition at -30 and looks like you have a vacuum leak even after numerous BLTs plus you get a much smother idle. I experienced all the above many times.

P.S: As the FSM says, I do not encourage you to mess with the SAS (stopper screw) unless absolutely necessary, I had to because PO was an idiot and messed with it.

Best of lucks and sorry for my English.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

JediMind76

Probationary Member
13
0
Jul 23, 2012
Valrico, Florida
This is extremely helpful, has anyone seen a write up on this adjustment with pictures? Possibly in the service manual?
 
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