Tools for overhall

[rtrocket59]

Whats up guys Im doing a 100% complete rebuild on my motor and I'm going to be seeing the snap-on guy on monday. I got all the basic tools (rachets, sockets, wrenches, torque wrenches, etc.) I know I'll need ring compressors, spring compressors, and feeler gauges. The machine shops going to be measuring the bores and stuff so I won't need a mic or straight edge or any of that expensive stuff. Any special tools I should know of?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

If machine shop is doing all the precision measuring you probably have everything you need. 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets 10mm alan head socket for head bolts. And pry bars.

Razor blades for gasket surface cleaning.

 

[Seamus]

A decent workbench and vise.

 

[WES_393]

Engine stand if you don't already have one. Harbor Freight sells a good, yet still cheap stand.

 

[SrKegler]

Going to need a tool for installing the valves, if you're also freshening up the head. The rental valve spring compressor wont work on our heads.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Euroexport one works

 

[rtrocket59]

Going to need a tool for installing the valves, if you're also freshening up the head. The rental valve spring compressor wont work on our heads.

What valve spring compressor am I going to need?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

What valve spring compressor am I going to need?

Euro export 4g63 valve compressor bolts i to cam caps and allows you to change springs while head is on block. Ise compressed air in the spark plug hole.

 

[95gstnate]

I would suggest some plastigauge to double check the bearing clearances. Never assume the machine shop got it all correct they are human and can make mistakes that are not caught on there end.

 

[rtrocket59]

Euro export 4g63 valve compressor bolts i to cam caps and allows you to change springs while head is on block. Ise compressed air in the spark plug hole.

Thanks. Will this also work with other motors or just 4g63's? Trying to build up my tool box.

I would suggest some plastigauge to double check the bearing clearances. Never assume the machine shop got it all correct they are human and can make mistakes that are not caught on there end.

Good call. Thanks for mentioning that. Even the most reputable shop can make mistakes.

 

[Anthony Lupori]

UNIVERSAL VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR MST9140B | Matco Tools

grab one of these, its an excellent valve spring compressor. it will allow you to change valve seals while the head is on or off the block. now this kit is just a generic kit that matco slaps their sticker on, blue point has one, and even ebay for like 75 dollars, theyre all the same kit in different colored cases. you might want to also consider a 90 degree die grinder and white bristle discs for cleaning the head and block surface. just dont get to aggressive with this (its unnecessary if youre having the head and block shaved). also as was mentioned either plastigauge or a nice set of micrometers and a dial bore gauge to check bearing clearances.

also one thing i forgot, grab a valve lapping tool and compound, its like 10 dollars total and it will save you money on having to get valve seats cut or oversized valves assuming yours are in decent shape.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Not from snap on, but a Timing tool kit. I have the Jay's Racing one.

 

[Gerg]

I'd also pick up those feeler gauges so that you can check the ring gaps on each piston before you install it. It's always good to double check the machine shops work, especially when your the one assembling it.

 

[SrKegler]

I don't think the Matco valve spring compressor will work on our heads, The best is the one from euroexport. Other than that good advice listed above.

 

[Riceburning101]

Even though the machine shop is measuring get a set up telescoping gauges, outside micrometers, and small bore gauge. You then can double check the oil clearance without using the plastigauge. Plastigauge is really only used for quality control checking. You can also check out of round, taper etc with a t gauge and outside micrometer. You can also mic the crank journals etc all useful tools to have around for random stuff. Then also a dial indicator to check crank end play and you can also use it for camshaft degreeing if you decide to go adjustable or feel the need to check the run out of the cams or crank.

 

[AwD4g63TsI]

I don't think the Matco valve spring compressor will work on our heads, The best is the one from euroexport. Other than that good advice listed above.

The Matco one absolutely works and is also good advice as far as which compressor to get. I have the Snap On equivalent of the Matco compressor. A buddy of mine has the euroexport style and I've used it. Can't say I would choose one over the other. Euro export style allows you to statically lock the spring down and work with both hands on what you want to do-but you have to move from one set of springs to the next by undoing dismounting and remounting the tool which will take up more of your time. The Matco style has two "anchors" that screw down and then you can work your whole valvetrain without undoing anything else. Both tools work very well.

 

[BigRed12]

If the head is going to be at the machine shop, why not have them remove or install the springs? It shouldnt cost much to have them do it and it wont take them long. They most likely have something they can do all the valve springs in the head in about 30-45min.

But a GOOD torque wrench... make sure you have one that precise and has been calibrated recently (within 3 months or so).

 

[bryanwheat]

Or you can build a valve spring compressor with a c clamp and a socket. I would also avoid snap on for a lot of these tools. Things like ring compressor, ring spreader, torque wrench, basic sockets, wrenches and so m can be had at a much cheaper price for quality tools. Snap on does make good tools, but I have found them to just be an outright waste of money. I am very hard on tools, I break snap on ratchets as fast as I break craftsman, kobalt or any other. I have a set of performance tool sockets and a set of Stanley American made wrenches that I have since I was 18 and still use these till this day 12 years later. I have a piston ring compressor in my box that I bought when I was 15 years old and has been used in every engine I have ever assembled. I would go to harbor freight and go to town. Then pick up a nice torque wrench from a higher end company. You would be surprised with some of the items at harbor freight. I have been using their dial indicator, and micrometers for years as well with many other tool. You just have to be smart when you go in there. I have bought items that didn't work because they were designed badly, like a compression tester wig a 4 foot lead, or a 10 dollar fuel pressure tested. But I have also bought items that are hands down better than anything else remotely close in price.

 

[rtrocket59]

Or you can build a valve spring compressor with a c clamp and a socket. I would also avoid snap on for a lot of these tools. Things like ring compressor, ring spreader, torque wrench, basic sockets, wrenches and so m can be had at a much cheaper price for quality tools. Snap on does make good tools, but I have found them to just be an outright waste of money. I am very hard on tools, I break snap on ratchets as fast as I break craftsman, kobalt or any other. I have a set of performance tool sockets and a set of Stanley American made wrenches that I have since I was 18 and still use these till this day 12 years later. I have a piston ring compressor in my box that I bought when I was 15 years old and has been used in every engine I have ever assembled. I would go to harbor freight and go to town. Then pick up a nice torque wrench from a higher end company. You would be surprised with some of the items at harbor freight. I have been using their dial indicator, and micrometers for years as well with many other tool. You just have to be smart when you go in there. I have bought items that didn't work because they were designed badly, like a compression tester wig a 4 foot lead, or a 10 dollar fuel pressure tested. But I have also bought items that are hands down better than anything else remotely close in price.

I have both snap-on and harbor freight tools in my box. And sometimes I can't even notice the difference. I prefer snap on for wrenches and sockets because of their flank drive, helps alot. I also keep an extra rachet gears in my tool box just in case I break one on the job. Another advantage of snap on is that they'll literally replace any tool no matter what you do to it . But definitely going with harbor freight for my mics, dial bore gauges, dial indicators, etc. Snap on prices are just way too expensive.

 

[lowboost13]

I would suggest some plastigauge to double check the bearing clearances. Never assume the machine shop got it all correct they are human and can make mistakes that are not caught on there end.

I would trust a machine shops micrometer over plastigauge... . If you really wanna check it then get a micrometer.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I have both snap-on and harbor freight tools in my box. And sometimes I can't even notice the difference. I prefer snap on for wrenches and sockets because of their flank drive, helps alot. I also keep an extra rachet gears in my tool box just in case I break one on the job. Another advantage of snap on is that they'll literally replace any tool no matter what you do to it . But definitely going with harbor freight for my mics, dial bore gauges, dial indicators, etc. Snap on prices are just way too expensive.

True that, my friend is a tech and he found an extended handle ratchet that someone left inside the engine bay from a previous shop, he put it in a vice, bent it, and got a brand new one. tahduh!

 

[rtrocket59]

Am i going to need a seal driver kit or race/seal driver kit? My shopping list consists of....
Harbor Freight
Dial indicator
Dial indiactor magnetic base
3 piece mic set
6 piece t gauge set
12" digital caliper
20 piece brush kit
18 piece seal driver kit
12 piece needle file set

Euroexport
85.00 mm ring compressor (STD bore)
cam gear lock
4g63 valve spring compressor



Jay's Racing
Timing belt tool kit
clutch alignment tool (AT20)

Any input would be great (if I am missing anything or have anything that is unnecessary). Will be getting a really nice torque wrench from the snap on truck. My $15 autozone one isnt going to cut it . Also going to get plastigauge locally

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Am i going to need a seal driver kit or race/seal driver kit? My shopping list consists of....
Harbor Freight
Dial indicator
Dial indiactor magnetic base
3 piece mic set
6 piece t gauge set
12" digital caliper
20 piece brush kit
18 piece seal driver kit
12 piece needle file set

Euroexport
85.00 mm ring compressor (STD bore)
cam gear lock
4g63 valve spring compressor



Jay's Racing
Timing belt tool kit
clutch alignment tool (AT20)

Any input would be great (if I am missing anything or have anything that is unnecessary). Will be getting a really nice torque wrench from the snap on truck. My $15 autozone one isnt going to cut it . Also going to get plastigauge locally

^ Make sure you get an Inch and Foot lbs. The tensioner pulley is tensioned to 24 inch lbs then the nut tighted to 36 foot lbs.

And a good trusty prybar. I use it to seperate the tranny and wedge the crank to get the crank and flywheel bolts off.

 

[rtrocket59]

^ Make sure you get an Inch and Foot lbs. The tensioner pulley is tensioned to 24 inch lbs then the nut tighted to 36 foot lbs.

And a good trusty prybar. I use it to seperate the tranny and wedge the crank to get the crank and flywheel bolts off.

Am I going to need a pulley puller/installer kit?

 

[bryanwheat]

Am I going to need a pulley puller/installer kit?

No. You won't need a seal driver set either. You can easily push the seals in by hand.