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Too much lag between shifts fp3586r

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vicky_turbo

15+ Year Contributor
59
0
Jun 23, 2003
UAE,DUBAI, Asia
guys I need help I went 12.6 @121 miles I m around 425whp on mustang dyno
and 544hp on ecmlink there is too much lag in between shifts I know I dint shift properly I.need urgent feed back as I will drag on 3rd of march again am running c16 fuel with 32psi boost
how do I removed lag in between shifts this is my log pls let me know
I went last 12.6 @121.6
I cannot load the log as it exceeds the limit please help I tunned it I built it so I know I am not perfect I also found loads of play on the shifter linkage bushing so I ordered brass bushing and complete shifter bushing and torque solution base bushing my tranny is stock

plus my 70 to 90 is around 1.6 thts around trapspeed of 127 it should be easily a low 11 seconds car

my timeslip
 

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yea just hours before the race I had removed a massive boost leak from my crap magnus intake manifold I rewelded it an applied pc 7 compound now I don't know yet it has crack again but before the drag I did once n it was holding good
 
Using NLTS and shifting higher would help a lot. I'd also zero out the fuel and timing sliders and work on smoothing out the DA tables. You have the same timing at spool, full boost, and redline. Also, I don't see a wideband in your captured values.
 
Hi steve how should I adjust my timing can u give me an ideaat spool ,full boost , n red line pls thanx
 
Guys I am the only guys in dubai with a 1 g dsm I have to prove with a better timeslip no one knows around here tht which car it is .so I need more inputs 3586r c16 gas 33 psi and only 12.6 for a dsm is way to low I m working on nlts and my shifter bushings all are gone pls suggest best way posible to take it into 11s
 
Get bigger cams, a sheet metal intaje manifold. Bigger injectors than the 770's on your profiles parts wish list, (what are you running now?)

The kyb agx are probably not helping if they are old, and your mushroom filter would is probably hindering flow I'd get a 12" k&n cone

Also do you know the altitude there?

Driver mod? Track prep? Tuning?(can't view log on phone)

Is your clutch slipping?

I'm sure that greddyy fmic isnt helping at all..... Greddy makes horribly expensive under performing fmic's
 
Without seeing a log and the power u made at 32psi on that turbo, I'd say your timing is way too conservative. That will help on transient response too if you your timing is stupid low when u let off the gas. Get that timing aggressive, ## on race , gas, take advantage of it.

32psi and only a 12.6??? I think something is definately wrong, have you checked for boost leaks?

Ummm don't you think he would see in his map log if he wasn't hitting 32psi? How did u get back to positive rep?
 
Without seeing a log and the power u made at 32psi on that turbo, I'd say your timing is way too conservative. That will help on transient response too if you your timing is stupid low when u let off the gas. Get that timing aggressive, ## on race , gas, take advantage of it.





Ummm don't you think he would see in his map log if he wasn't hitting 32psi? How did u get back to positive rep?


I didn't say i thought he wasnt hitting 32psi where did you get that from?. I havnt even looked at the log, im on my phone. I said for that boost level a 12.6 is slow on that turbo. Plus boost leaks contribute to slow transient response. You took that as you wanted. Because in what i said no way correlates with what words you put in my mouth.

Where the hell is neg rep for you douche bag.
 
vicky_turbo: two suggestions. First, you're lifting the throttle to shift. You can see the boost drop way off as a result. ECMlink has a no lift to shift feature which will help keep the turbo spooled in-between shifts. All you need is the clutch cut wire and a few hours to set everything up. Search the Wiki for the how-to.

Second, In the log you're revving to 7,382 RPM on the 2-3 shift. The higher you rev the motor, the higher RPM you'll start off in the next gear, meaning faster boost recovery. Your profile shows cylinder head modifications sufficient to support a higher redline.

If these two prove insufficient, ECMlink has the antilag feature to really keep the boost up in-between shifts. Try the above first however.
 
vicky_turbo: two suggestions. First, you're lifting the throttle to shift. You can see the boost drop way off as a result. ECMlink has a no lift to shift feature which will help keep the turbo spooled in-between shifts. All you need is the clutch cut wire and a few hours to set everything up. Search the Wiki for the how-to.

Second, In the log you're revving to 7,382 RPM on the 2-3 shift. The higher you rev the motor, the higher RPM you'll start off in the next gear, meaning faster boost recovery. Your profile shows cylinder head modifications sufficient to support a higher redline.

If these two prove insufficient, ECMlink has the antilag feature to really keep the boost up in-between shifts. Try the above first however.

Isn't link's anti lag only for launch?
 
Urban smooker : I have 272/272 injectors bluemax 1250cc
Headworks guys is full port and polished bc springs and retainers ,supertech valves
To uofcats: dude I will definatly setup nlts my tranny is stock with 2900act sprung 6 puck disc with act streetlite flywheel how much rpms max can I go with stock tranny u r right the shift transition lag is so much tht I actually lose 3.4 seconds from shift to 2nd gear boost build up any help on a retune map like how agressive should I be from which rpm to which rpm thanx man

to run als between shifts u need to setup clutch cut setup right I went under my dash I can see the switch but the pig tail doesnot have GREEN/BLCK wire rather it has GREEN/WHITE WIRE AND 2 other wires so basically I have 3 wires hooked up on my clutch switch 1 WHITE /GREEN AND OTHER 2 WIRES FULL GREEN wiki ecm
tells to hook up black/green wire any feed back is helping a lot

my drag pass this was [email protected]
copy paste the link
https://www.facebook.com/waqas.ahmed.1042?ref=tn_tnmn
 
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I can see in your log the negative effect each shift has on the car. Power drops off hard and takes a long time to recover. I would start by bumping up the rev limiter 500rpm to 8,000 and run the car again. The car will easily handle that and I'd feel good about 8,500 RPM too although it's your car, your decision..

Regarding the antilag, I'm no expert but I believe the best technique is to start with just the ignition timing. If that proves insufficient, move into the enrich fuel category. Things get real interesting, real fast. Be careful.

I would post a log after every change and look for feedback.
 
Urban smooker : I have 272/272 injectors bluemax 1250cc

Headworks guys is full port and polished bc springs and retainers ,supertech valves

To uofcats: dude I will definatly setup nlts my tranny is stock with 2900act sprung 6 puck disc with act streetlite flywheel how much rpms max can I go with stock tranny u r right the shift transition lag is so much tht I actually lose 3.4 seconds from shift to 2nd gear boost build up any help on a retune map like how agressive should I be from which rpm to which rpm thanx man



to run als between shifts u need to setup clutch cut setup right I went under my dash I can see the switch but the pig tail doesnot have GREEN/BLCK wire rather it has GREEN/WHITE WIRE AND 2 other wires so basically I have 3 wires hooked up on my clutch switch 1 WHITE /GREEN AND OTHER 2 WIRES FULL GREEN wiki ecm

tells to hook up black/green wire any feed back is helping a lot



my drag pass this was [email protected]

copy paste the link

https://www.facebook.com/waqas.ahmed.1042?ref=tn_tnmn


You need to update your profile then still says hks264 and 2100 clutch and no sign of injectors :) we would be able to help you more with a full and up to date mod list.
 
AfA elevation at the track he was at: I would take a wild ass guess and say, oh, maybe sea level

Side note: Did you guys look at the facebook? Scroll down a few and it shows dyno results. "pump gas 98 oct 16* timing". 98 oct pump????!!!!! Guess they would get the good stuff over there.......seeing how its basically right beneath them.

OP: You have been given good strong suggestions. Rev higher would be mine and of course NLTS will help a lot. Just curious: you guys even have e85? Thanks
 
AfA elevation at the track he was at: I would take a wild ass guess and say, oh, maybe sea level

Side note: Did you guys look at the facebook? Scroll down a few and it shows dyno results. "pump gas 98 oct 16* timing". 98 oct pump????!!!!! Guess they would get the good stuff over there.......seeing how its basically right beneath them.

OP: You have been given good strong suggestions. Rev higher would be mine and of course NLTS will help a lot. Just curious: you guys even have e85? Thanks


Sorry i can't say i ever have or ever will go to dubai. I wouldnt know if his track is at elevation or not.
 
AfA elevation at the track he was at: I would take a wild ass guess and say, oh, maybe sea level

Side note: Did you guys look at the facebook? Scroll down a few and it shows dyno results. "pump gas 98 oct 16* timing". 98 oct pump????!!!!! Guess they would get the good stuff over there.......seeing how its basically right beneath them.

OP: You have been given good strong suggestions. Rev higher would be mine and of course NLTS will help a lot. Just curious: you guys even have e85? Thanks

That might well be 98RON not 98AKI.
 
Don't feel like quoting everyone, but to answer a few questions:

-Timing is 19º from 4,000 up.
-Boost is 33.5 peak.
-AFR is ~11.5 targeted. (no log WB, but looks reasonable)
-UAE is basically sea level.
-Fuel is c16.


If anyone has NLTS wired in a 1g, maybe they can help with the current issue in post 17. I want to see this car drop a full second on the next 1/4-mile pass :hellyeah:
 
9,000rpm should be your redline and you should be revving to almost that in the first two gears to ensure instant boost recovery after every shift. Don't let the tach fall under 6,000rpm during your run...actually, I would set the shift cut to 7,000rpm on that turbo via your NLTS. Need more boost, bigger injectors most likely and drive the car like you mean it.
 
9,000rpm should be your redline and you should be revving to almost that in the first two gears to ensure instant boost recovery after every shift. Don't let the tach fall under 6,000rpm during your run...actually, I would set the shift cut to 7,000rpm on that turbo via your NLTS. Need more boost, bigger injectors most likely and drive the car like you mean it.

I'd think you could go higher yet. I started going 9600 in first, and 9400 in second and the car went faster.
 
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