1G Timing tensioner arm question

[Cherry]

I was able to get some new bushings and Im cleaning and doing any maintenance and was wondering if the arm is supposed to be flat, or have a dimple in it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Is the dimple supposed to be on the arm where the hydraulic tensioner makes contact or is it supposed to be flat. If its supposed to be flat I'll weld it up and file it back to flat as best as possible. After that put a little bit of paint on it push the bushings in and go with it.

The shaft does have some wear on it, but there isnt much I can do about that and when putting the 2g tensioner arm on with the new bushings (where I got the bushings from) had very little movement. It should help out, going to trim the gasket as well while I have access to it just to make sure it didnt get under the engine mount bracket.

Just wondering about that dimple.

 

[pauleyman]

Flat. You can weld it up but there is really no need. The eccentric tensioner will take up the slack if you grind and the tension procedure isn't a position but a torque spec which won't change.
Just file it flat.

 

[Cherry]

Alright, ill weld it up in the morning. Or ill go do it in a couple of minutes so I can get everything ready to be put back in tomorrow.

Thanks for the info.

 

[EZ91Talon]

If you have the special tension tool MD998752 (which I don't) the tension procedure is a torque spec, as @pauleyman states. Unfortunately, the first few times I did this, I didn't realize my tensioner arm was dimpled (apparently a VERY common condition) and used an alternate install procedure specifying a position (gap) setting and was always frustrated with how loose the TB was. Just something to keep in mind, if your tension arm is dimpled, setting the tension by measuring the gap will not provide correct tension on the timing belt.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[pauleyman]

If you have the special tension tool MD998752 (which I don't) the tension procedure is a torque spec, as @pauleyman states. Unfortunately, the first few times I did this, I didn't realize my tensioner arm was dimpled (apparently a VERY common condition) and used an alternate install procedure specifying a position (gap) setting and was always frustrated with how loose the TB was. Just something to keep in mind, if your tension arm is dimpled, setting the tension by measuring the gap will not provide correct tension on the timing belt.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That isn't an alternate method. You're supposed to set the pulley with torque and then verify with the measurement. Honestly I've never measured torque. I just did it by feel. The important part is the measurement and yes that dimple would skew that.
I've lost count of how many I've done, you just sorta get a feel for it. I used to supplement my income with this job in college back in the 90s. I could crank one out with water pump before lunch on sat. Easy money.

 

[EZ91Talon]

When you know, you know. Some of us are just not that wise

 

[Dericsh]

I was gonna grind mine flat too, but it’s in the spare parts box right now. I found a new Hyundai branded one for cheap so I’m gonna try it out first.

 

[Cherry]

The only reason im working on it is to get it back to how it should be so there isnt any reason the timing belt should shred. The arm was basically flopping like a fish. The bushings and even the stud that the arm goes on is worn. Cant get the stud which looks like you can press out and replace, or press out, take it to be welded and ground to manufacture specifications or there are places on the stud to get a measurement. Im going to get the bushings back in today and hopefully bolted onto the stud and check for play again before putting any of it back in. If its good ill get it back together tomorrow and be done with it.

Going to go get a set of calipers today though. A set is good to have regardless.

 

[AWD-Tony]

@Cherry you replaced the bushing on the tensioner arm? If so, can you provide a link?

 

[Dericsh]

@Cherry you replaced the bushing on the tensioner arm? If so, can you provide a link?

This is the only one I know about.

 

[AWD-Tony]

This is the only one I know about.

Wow. That’s way overpriced.

 

[Dericsh]

Wow. That’s way overpriced.

Supposedly it’s the price of that oilite material.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Supposedly it’s the price of that oilite material

Ohhh I see.

The 2g oe tensioner arm is $56. Wonder if they’re the same bushing.

Mitsubishi OEM Timing Belt Tensioner Arm for Evo 4-9/2G DSM (MN119896)

Genuine OEM Mitsubishi factory replacement 4G63 timing belt tensioner arm for the Evo 4/5/6/7/8/9 and 2G DSM models.

stmtuned.com

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I've tested a 7 bolt arm on a 6 bolt just to see what all was different and the seemed the same Tony. I didn't notice any excessive wobble so I would only be assuming they are the same ID but I could be wrong. Its been a while.

 

[Cherry]

I had ordered the Oilite bushings but after almost 6 weeks or so I got a refund.

The bushings from 90-99 looks to be the same, and if listings are correct the 2h arm is also the same that the evos use up through 9? I think.

The bushing isnt a complete O but is actually like a C that when pressed into the arm becomes an O so its easier to get out and if you had a piece of hardwood which would still be softer than the metal it self, it shouldnt damage the bushing but I dont see a good way to actually press the bushings out without destroying one of them.

I used a nail punch and cleaned up the edge and the interior if it bulged out any. About 80% of the bushing was undamaged but im going to get the belt on and tighten everything just to see if its tracking right which it should be with no movement of the arm on the shaft. Though it doesnt move swivel on it very well so I might have to clean up just a little bit more. I did put some grease on it, just a thin film of it before I put it on.

Gotta do what you gotta do when you no longer have access to stuff. Ill go get the belt set, turn the engine over by hand and see how its tracking. Hopefully I remember to take a picture of it since I forgot to take one of the arm. Im just really bad about taking pictures.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I would just cut the tensioner to get the bushing out.

 

[Cherry]

Yeah, thats another option. I will say that it was a success in centering my timing belt so its tracking properly. It might not be "exactly" centered, but the belt probably moved about 1/8 inch which is quite a lot.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Not the best pictures to show the difference, but the difference is significant.