Timing Issue? Boost leak? Help I'm a noob :)

[90laserRSfwd]

I'm not sure what's wrong with my car so I'll prvide as much detail as I can and try to stay on point. I have a 1990 plymouth laser rs fwd turbo 5 speed. It has 142K. I bought it with the following.

22 x 7 x 2.75" front mount
2.5" charge piping
big 16g turbo
stock 1g manifold and o2 housing
stock 1g downpipe
2.5" cat and cat back with cheapo apc muffler
stock clutch (new maybe 25 miles? not even)
K&N air filter
xs power rfl h knock off bov
aluminum crank pulley (looks like ebay junk)

The list

The oil dipstick pops out (happened 2 times out of the total of 12 times I've driven it)
It only makes 2psi when up to temp, 7 psi when less then that
I replaced the plugs and wires with NGK (plugs are BPR7ES)
Clean and reoiled K&N filter

I'll post pic's tomorrow of the cam gears and timing stuff. I'm not sure if the timing is off or not. I know what POS bov leaks I can here it. I have a 1g bov that I'm going to be installing and keeping it setup to recirculate. When I get into the throttle, the car rev's smoothly to 4 or 5k (no boost turbo doesn't spool), then the turbo sounds like it spools then it falls flat on it's face (kind of like hitting fuel cut in a way and then sort of like the ecu caps leaking kind of feel, seems like the car just doesn't want to run with boost). It is slower then my buddy's 1.8t awd audi with tiptronic (auto). I mean like he beat me buy 2 or 3 cars. His car is all stock except a muffler and K&N open filter (about 10 psi or less). I'm going to be getting all new timing parts, and the BS stuff, a water pump, and a new oem crank pulley, and installing it all in 2 or 3 weeks (end of April). I haven't gotten the chance to build a boost leak tester, but I know that valve is leaking and I am just going to assume there a a few more. Also how about the turbo? I have an offer on it for $75. Should I just sell the 16g and get a new evo 3 16g (MHI unit) or should I have the current one rebuilt? I'm looking to make around 300fwhp. I have some parts already but I don't want to start bolting parts onto the motor till it runs good. I'll be doing a compression test on it one day this week also. Thanks for the space, sorry for the novel.

-Jace

 

[IslandTSI]

I wouldn't start selling parts just yet until you have a better idea whats going on.

Check your pcv valve. I would just replace it actually. Its a cheap part ($14) and should be done every year or so anyways. That could be a simple fix for the dipstick.

The no boost issue sounds like it might be the waste gate is not staying shut. If you have access to as regulated source of air hook it up to the wastegate nipple and set it at the psi you want ti tum and watch to see what happens.

Also replace all your vacume lines (its a 17 year old car) and fix that boost leak. Then test for more boost leaks.

Keep illuminating issues like that and we can continue to help you out.

good luck

 

[90laserRSfwd]

I just replaced the pcv valve and have all the vaccum line to do the car, problably wensday (vaca day). Thanks for the reponse

 

[90laserRSfwd]

what is a crankshaft timing plate? and what does it do?

 

[Laysher91]

Its the metal plate that is sandwiched between the crank sprocket and balance shaft sprocket that are on the end of the crankshaft. It has a timing notch in it so you can line up the crank at TDC. If you wondering, you shouldnt need to replace it...unless yours is missing but it shouldnt be.

 

[Mikelb]

Ok, when I started reading your topic. I knew as soon as I saw it that the BOV was going to be a problem... They're cheap and pos'. Change that out first and foremost.

So we know that you have a boost leak. I'm also going to say that it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. You didn't mention this, but I'm going to assume you're having some sort of idle surge?

Well, if any of your vacuum lines have come off of you BOV, MBC(or BCS), or wastegate, then you aren't going to be able to boost. I had this problem when I first bought my Talon. The car would boost, but only a little and whenever it chose to. Come to find out, my vac hoses had blown off (the pressure will do that). I ziptied them on, and was boostin' my full 17 psi. Haven't had a problem with them since.

As far as the dipstick coming out, that could be simply because your dipstick rubber(that sounds wrong) has turned into plastic. The heat and years will do that to it. All you have to do in this case is, crimp the dipstick tube (a little) with pliers and it should provide enough resistance to keep the stick in the hole. If you overdo it though, you may not be able to get the dipstick back into its hole, use discretion with the pliers.

^If the dipstick isn't the real problem, as the others have said; check the PCV valve. If it's bad, it will allow the crank case to build up pressure and blow the dipstick out. Replacing the PCV valve may be all that you need to do. Check that first.

If you have fixed the boost leak, and checked for a vacuum leak (and found none or corrected) and still can't boost, I suggest playing around with your CAS a little. This sensor can adjust the timing. If the timing is set wrong, the car will knock and the ECU will pull the timing to rid the car of the knock. This can also affect your boost levels. This might actually be an issue, since you're seeing different boost levels when warm than when the car's first started.

I suggest investing in a datalogger; or if your pockets are loaded, DSMLink. They will allow you to watch for knock and ignition timing.

I wish you good luck and be sure to give us updates.

-Mikelb

Edit: I am including some links of interest.

I'm not really sure how your vacuum lines are setup, but this link will give you some diagrams to compare to: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198327

Here's how to adjust the ignition timing via the CAS (I suggest this after you have completed the other things first)http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/timing.html
(this one has pics) http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm

 

[dsm-onster]

Your CAM timing is likely off. Double check this first then come back. Don't give up. We've saves many a DSM from being crushed on this site .

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Thanks for all the help so far. I love this site, haha. I'm going out to take some pic's of the cam gears and timing belt stuff, and also to look into that crankshaft timing plate thing. The kid that had the car before me put one of those POS crank pulley's on the car and drove it for about 4,000 miles. I hope the motor isn't hurt. Anything specific I should upload pictures of your you guys to help me out? Thanks in advance

-Jace

 

[dsm-onster]

Bring the crank to Top Dead center. Go clock-wise only of course. Then take a snapshot of you cam gear marks.

 

[dsm-onster]

then the turbo sounds like it spools then it falls flat on it's face (kind of like hitting fuel cut in a way and then sort of like the ecu caps leaking kind of feel, seems like the car just doesn't want to run with boost).

Your turbo makes a significant whistling noise, or what? I never "heard" my small 16G. I felt it. . . but never heard it, except when running straight off the o2 housing . Of course, I had an open muffler and no cat (not a street car ). A turbo that is getting overworked does really whine though. So probably the BOV is just not up to tack as previously mentioned by Mikelb.

Also how about the turbo? I have an offer on it for $75.

Turbo. . . definately worth more than 75 bones unless it's blown. Hence, my question above.

Should I just sell the 16g and get a new evo 3 16g (MHI unit) or should I have the current one rebuilt? I'm looking to make around 300fwhp.

-The big 16g is perfect for 300 whp!!!
-An evo3 16G can be had for 560 bones new (that a good thing!)
-A rebuild can be had for $300 or a little less
-An evo3 16G can go to as high as 400 hp. But no stock longblock (head and block) has gone near there w/ one.
-Cams and high revs can allow the evo3 16G to get to 400whp
-Stroking can allow the evo3 16G to get to 400whp
-A big 16G w/ a clipped turbine wheel has gone to 38 lbs/min (Around 400 hp). I talked to the guy on the DSMLINK forums.
-Clipping costs very little especially when you're allready going to rebuild
-Clipping KILLS the efficiency of the turbine wheel

How far do you want to go AFTER you get 300 HP?

I have some parts already but I don't want to start bolting parts onto the motor till it runs good. I'll be doing a compression test on it one day this week also. Thanks for the space, sorry for the novel.

-Jace

Your first "upgrade" is always a good running & well maintained stock engine. . .

 

[90laserRSfwd]

The car is a fwd and I have many other hobbies, snomobiling, motorcross, jetski's , etc. 300fwhp is good for a daily driver I would say. So as far as how much farther do I wanna take it past 300. maybe 310 or 315? haha, actually my 2 goals are to make 300fwhp and run a 12. not to hard I wouldn't think?

got my maf and maf t last night with the dejon blow through 2.5" upper intercooler pipe. installed it in about 25 min's. car runs so much smoother. no more boost leaks either.

I'm getting pic's but it's still raining out here so I'm a little delayed. Anything else you guys would reccommend for the 12 sec pass? I have the following:


all the stuff mentioned so far in the post +
3" turbo back exhaust with test pipe
215 60 14 bfg drag radials on 14" steelies
MBC
16g
prothane motor mounts
s/s clutch line
open K&N on 2.5" dejon intake pipe
maf translator and 3" maf


on order...
ACT 2600 with street disc
1/4" longer slave rod
255HP pump and reg.
650cc injectors
logger
pump rewire kit
2.5" dumped o2 housing