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Timing belt SNAPPED. Piston question.

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Well it sounds like you've already decided you want to just half-ass the repair (maybe for good reason, maybe not), and are looking for someone to tell you it's ok. So go ahead...what do we care. :)

But...

Based on this comment:

No care. I'm here for the market.

I really hope we don't see you trying to pawn this steaming pile off on an unsuspecting forum member in the future. And I'm sure everyone will be a bit more wary of anything you do try to sell in "our market".

Just saying is all...
 
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Thank you.

I don't know that the cylinders are fine, but physically I do not see any gouges or extreme damage.

I'm not too concerned with the tightness of this motor though. As long as it actually works and keeps working for a while.

This car is bone stock. Right down to the exhaust. I don't think that this car will be making anything more than 200 chp anytime soon.

Do you see my point of view? I do want this done correctly, but only so as much as to keep the car running. It's a beat 1g. The body is toast. Also, for me to take the motor to a machine shop and have it sit there means more downtime before the white stuff starts flying. And man, I do hate working in cold weather.

So let me know your verdict.

Keep the pistons in there and smooth them

or

Put a good set of used stock pistons/rods with new clevite stock size bearings

Keep the pistons. I would use something like eastwoods grinders grease, some sanding dremel bits and white rouge polish to perfection. At least pull the pan off make sure there isn't anything else messed up (metal in the pan). I wouldn't be too happy finding out there is more after hurdling over some bent valves.

Take the rods and pistons to the machine shop at least and let them check if they are still straight they won't charge you a thing for that.
 
Eff all that. It's a winter beater. You didn't put any valves through the pistons, did you? If not, just make sure the valve reliefs are smooth (with a light dremel action), and get new valves and a valve job on the head, slap it on, and go. Absolutely no need to rebuild the bottom end.
 
When two metals smash into each other the weaker one bends. In this case the valves. Replace the bent valves in the head, get the head checked. Slap on a new HG and leave this behind you. Its not as big of a deal as people are claiming it is in here.

I work for a dealership and have seen this happen more then a few times.
 
I polished up dinged pistons in my N/T daily driver and drove it over a year like that. It was a cheap 1k car so I just cleaned everything up, and put a new head on it. Only reason it isn't driving now is cause I have my talon up and running.

IMHO. If it's a motor you actually care about then you better just take it apart and do a rebuild. If your like me a didn't give a shit cause it was a 1k car that would probably be scrapped otherewise then clean them up, and run it. Obviously this isn't the way to go, but it worked for me. That 1G probably runs better than half the cars on this forum. Pry has over 10k since the "Half ass" (which is really what it is) repair. If It's a winter beater I don't see the point in spending a bunch of money on a rebuild. You may as well buy another goddamn car if your going to do that.
 
Its not that bad. This isnt going to be your race car or anything, its just a winter beater. Geeze some of the guys here get all bent and are talking spending 2~4K in building a 1K car.

If any of you other guys had, say a cheap CRX as a beater and your dsm as your nice car. And your beater needed a set of tires. You wouldnt go out and buy some ToyoRA1's for it. You'd get the chinese sunny tires for $20 each. You'd do oil changes with whatever is on sale at walmart every once a year. Remember, OP has an EVO, a comfortable, respectable, RELIABLE, car thats actually worth some money, so he doesnt want to drive it in the winter salt. 1G: cheap, actually reliable unmodded and maintained, AWD, and you wouldnt be super sad if someone lost control and slid into your 1/4 panel driving through some ice.
 
Op the rings on the pistons may or may not be pinched, you need to find that out before you move on.

I understand this is a winter beater

To check for pinched rings.

> Roll the engine over so all pistons are at mid stroke
> Pour equall amount of oil on top the pistons
> Walk away for 4 hours to over night
> When you come back and check, the amout of oil should be the same in all 4 holes, if one is much lower or empty the rings are pinched, and the pistons need replaced. IF the oil level is the same and hasn't gone down alot form what you pourd in, buff out the dings in the pistons to get rid of hot spots, and bolt your head on and go
 
I decided I'm going to clean up the old pistons with a dremel. I have a new non damaged head coming in soon.

It was $110 compared to $60 for just new valves not to mention seals and my time and labor assembling the head.

I'm most likely going to send the new head to the machine shop to be checked for warp-age and cleaned so the head gasket has a clear surface to mate to.

Now for the block. What do you guys recommend I do to clean the head gasket material off?

Thanks,

Alex

Oh and to the guy that labeled me a "Scammer" right off the bat because I said I'm here for the market, F off. This is a nice place for parts and information and I wouldn't pass off crap I didn't want on to anyone else.

This car will be sold locally for exactly what I paid for it, and the full details and information about it will be passed on.

Thanks.
 
there is a thread posted about how to clean a up the block and head i saw several i think in this post i could be wrong though, their everywhere threads that is. Here for the market, mmm.
 
there is a thread posted about how to clean a up the block and head i saw several i think in this post i could be wrong though, their everywhere threads that is. Here for the market, mmm.

Nice grammar.
 
Nice grammar.

No kidding. And to think there's 4300 of those out there.. ha! That or it's a little too early for that kind of drinking.. or is it?

OP, are you going to do the oil test?
If it were me in your shoes, I'd look at like Sam has and just clean it up, too. But I'd do the oil test to be sure I wasn't wasting my time and having to either bus it or drive the X this winter.

EDIT: iugrad, hope them eyeballs of yours swell down to round again! Is it painful?
 
No kidding. And to think there's 4300 of those out there.. ha! That or it's a little too early for that kind of drinking.. or is it?

OP, are you going to do the oil test?
If it were me in your shoes, I'd look at like Sam has and just clean it up, too. But I'd do the oil test to be sure I wasn't wasting my time and having to either bus it or drive the X this winter.

EDIT: iugrad, hope them eyeballs of yours swell down to round again! Is it painful?


Nah, I'm got going to do an oil test.

If the bottom end is bad I'll part the car and scrap it.

I'm gonna jam a head on it and do a WOT launch out of my garage on the first start up.
 
Oh and to the guy that labeled me a "Scammer" right off the bat because I said I'm here for the market, F off.

I'm not labeling you as anything; but we've had a rash of scammers lately, and comments like "I figured instead of searching I'd post this so that way I can increase my post count" and "No care. I'm here for the market" will obviously send up red flags immediately, especially from a new member.

This isn't craigslist. If you want to use our classifieds, you have to contribute to the community just like everyone else does.

If I misunderstood your comments, my bad and I apologize.

And...good luck with the car.
 
Nah, I'm got going to do an oil test.

If the bottom end is bad I'll part the car and scrap it.

I'm gonna jam a head on it and do a WOT launch out of my garage on the first start up.

Anyone else laugh while reading this?

It was funny.
 
Lol. Well the only way to get the perks of this website is to post. So would you rather have Me post up a thread with an intellectual conversation or just post "wow cool!" On 30 different threads a day.
 
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