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Timing belt off center

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gofast63

10+ Year Contributor
381
28
Apr 22, 2011
Manchester, Michigan
Hello, my timing belt is off center it's over more towards the driverside( away from the valve cover). It's also hanging almost an 1/8 of a inch off the idler pulley but its flush with the cam gears. I know it's not because it's too tight because I adjusted it many times. I do not have my tensioner pully set to 9&12. But I don't think it would correct the issue. I think the tensioner pully my be the Culprit, but its solided nothing loose. Thoughs?... I've been building this car for 2years now and I'm itching to drive it.LOL No the pully's are not new.


I just remembered that I didn't tighten the tensioner arm.... Maybe that's causing it to push out. It hasn't been started so don't worry.LOL
 
I should have explained it a little better. It has ran before then I notice the belt. Sinced then it hasn't been started. I rotated it six times. I did take a video of it but my ipad won't load it on to my youtube page for some reason. The crank plate is on correctly I have the indentations of the gears on the plate so it was easy for me to install. The crank sprocket has been torque to 85ft pounds. It bugs me when I come to a stand still on things.LOL And yes, installing the crank plate backwards would affect timing.

On another note this is a 6 bolt swap done by previous owner. Can Having the wrong size pully's possibly cause this????... Not sure if they are the correct ones.
 
Does any of the pulley's look bent? even a small imperfection will make it move. I had a 96 eclipse GS and the ass. belt would fall off because of the AC condenser pulley was just barely bent. also, what was the sequence of pulleys you put the timing belt on? did you put the timing belt 1st on the cams then moved it around the balance shaft and then onto the crank pullet etc etc?
 
Yea definitely tighten that tensioner arm, the belt usually rides more toward the inside of the cam gears. Plus if your not sure buy new oem pulleys, tensioner and tensioner arm for a 6 bolt, it's cheap insurance and you wont have to replace them for awhile.
 
Does any of the pulley's look bent? even a small imperfection will make it move. I had a 96 eclipse GS and the ass. belt would fall off because of the AC condenser pulley was just barely bent. also, what was the sequence of pulleys you put the timing belt on? did you put the timing belt 1st on the cams then moved it around the balance shaft and then onto the crank pullet etc etc?
I have a bs delete. So cam gear, idler, oil pump,crank, tensioner, back to cam. And they look to be normal.
 
Yea definitely tighten that tensioner arm, the belt usually rides more toward the inside of the cam gears. Plus if your not sure buy new oem pulleys, tensioner and tensioner arm for a 6 bolt, it's cheap insurance and you wont have to replace them for awhile.
Tight on the dough with all my projects. I just want to get the car through all the testing phases so I know it's road worthy.
 
I hear you, snap a pic and post it up. I'll be able to tell you if your tensioner setup is six bolt. It will fray the outer edge of your timing belt if it's rubbing.
 
I would definitely get a new oem hydraulic tensioner,tensioner pulley and tensioner arm. They have a tendency to wear out after many years of use.
 
Hey guys I bought a new pulleys and tensioner arm and it still rides on the edge. I think it's my shaft that my tensionor arm sides on to. I can't find a replacement for it. :(
 
I got my tensioner arm at stm, I can't remember if it came with a new bolt and bushing/shaft but if you call them, they can probably source one got you. They are pretty cool and real helpful.
 
I bought a new OEM one from the dealer. And it still pulls to the drivers side. I have a 2g face plate so I'm using a 2g tensioner arm on a 6 bolt. Do I have to modify the tensioner arm it self? I made the clearance for the water pump.
 
For the shaft on the mount? Every possible way I could on google. If someone has the specs of what it's suppose to be I could check it.
 
On the tensioner pulley it seems it could be pushed back towards the engine block by like...2/16 and then the gap seems to be a 1/4" when it get to the idler pulley. This is after it was running.
 

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So I'm sure you know not to re use that t-belt, gates is cheap enough anyway. Is the crank timing hub bolt tightened, if it is you might need a 2g tensioner arm. Did you check the torque on all the front case bolts? Maybe it's going in at an angle, the tensioner arm bolt, I hate guessing but it's hard not seeing in person. Trying to save you some headache and money if possible.
 
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So I'm sure you know not to re use that t-belt, gates is cheap enough anyway. Is the crank timing hub bolt tightened, if it is you might need a 2g tensioner arm. Did you check the torque on all the front case bolts? Maybe it's going in at an angle, the tensioner arm bolt, I hate guessing but it's hard not seeing in person. Trying to save you some headache and money if possible.

That timing belt is new. It probably has about 20mins of run time on it. I have a 2g fp so I have to use the 2g timing components. Crank sprocket torque to 85ft. You happen to know the torque spec for the tensioner arm? I adjusted the tensioner pulley counterclockwise instead clockwise (Easier to do) then tightened. Could that be the cause?
 
Maybe, I'll tell you it's a pain without that tool, I used an Allen and a socket on the pulley bolt. The socket acts like a fulcrum and you tighten it down with the ratchet right then. I think the t-belt instructions on vfaq say the 1g is clockwise, and the 2g counterclockwise? Don't quote me on that but I'm pretty sure they are different. It's worth checking out, you may have a parts mismatch. As far as the t-belt goes it's frayed a little and most people are gonna tell you to replace it just in case.
 
I did a quick search and did you have your front cover machined to fit? They were saying the 2g front cover won't fit on a 6 bolt, unless it's machined to fit. Just seeing if maybe it wasn't machined perfect or something.
 
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