Malcalmstunt
Proven Member
- 65
- 11
- Aug 26, 2015
-
Sugar Land,
Texas
This will be my first timing belt install, and I am very nervous. I looked at the vfaq but I need more details. Like what should I look out for. I don't want to bend my valves.
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Some of what you said isn't quite right. Tensioner rod does not protect the hydraulic tensioner. Expanding won't cause damage etc. The rod is just to help hold stuff in place while you adjust and tighten the tensioner pulley. Compressing the tensioner too fast, yes that will damage it.. Op you don't even need the rod but it makes the job way easier. In the end tension must be right.Not sure what problem you are having.
If you can not thread the tool down far enough to contact the tensioner arm then you may have other problems.
The tool just prevents damage to the tensioner assembly. If you are replacing the tensioner assembly you can unbolt your old one and let it pop off. In a perfect world where you only needed to replace the timing belt and nothing else, the tool would just compress the tensioner slightly to its grenade pin level, where you could then loosen the tensioner pulley bolt and slide off the timing belt. You would just swap the belt, set the tension on the pulley, and remove the tool. If you take it to a shop for a timing belt that is probably what you are paying a technician to do . These cars NEED balance shaft belts and tensioner components replaced
Here is a picture take above my water pump. The long rod tool, I shall refer to it as the tensioner arm tool, gets threaded into the black bracket above the tensioner. It goes in behind the tensioner pulley and the belt to press down the tensioner arm. On mine the tool easily threads all the way into the engine mount by hand. I didn't even have to crank down with a tool on it to be able to slide a grenade pin (I used a small Allen wrench) into the tensioner unit. Note that the threads showing in the picture on the engine mount bracket are NOT where the tool threads into. The tool goes in at an angle
The tensioner arm is pushed up by the tensioner assembly. The tool pushes the arm down to lock the tensioner into place so it is not damaged when it is removed from the vehicle, so it doesn't expand rapidly and blow a compression seal internally
Basically the tensioner arm tool slides across the front case of the engine behind the belts and pulleys to push down the arm that holds the tensioner pulley
So in conclusion, if you are replacing the tensioner assembly you can damage the old one by un bolting it and letting it pop off HOWEVER you want the tool to work to properly set belt tension . I strongly reccomend finding out why the special tool will not fully thread into the engine mounting bracket as you will need it in order to adjust the tension on the tensioner and the pulley when you install the new tensioner
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Yes I concur. Tightening the pulley is easier with the rod in place.I appreciate the feedback, I know compressing the tensioner too quickly would cause damage to it. I know tightening the tensioner pulley is alot easier with the tool as well.
The tool just makes everything easier to replace and adjust I suppose.
Okay I found my problem!!!! The tool broke before it got anywhere near the arm (reason why I couldn't see it touching the arm. I will try to tap it and unscrew it. I just used the tensioner pulley to set my tension on my belt for now. I will finish it all tomorrow evening.Some of what you said isn't quite right. Tensioner rod does not protect the hydraulic tensioner. Expanding won't cause damage etc. The rod is just to help hold stuff in place while you adjust and tighten the tensioner pulley. Compressing the tensioner too fast, yes that will damage it.. Op you don't even need the rod but it makes the job way easier. In the end tension must be right.
For now? Regardless of how you did it this job needs to be right. Tension is not subjective there is a spec and you must meet itOkay I found my problem!!!! The tool broke before it got anywhere near the arm (reason why I couldn't see it touching the arm. I will try to tap it and unscrew it. I just used the tensioner pulley to set my tension on my belt for now. I will finish it all tomorrow evening.
Yes I know, what I meant for now is just today. I had to rush to work and I will start tomorrow morningFor now? Regardless of how you did it this job needs to be right. Tension is not subjective there is a spec and you must meet it
STM has the entire kit and toolsI can't remember if it's stm or extreme, but one of them makes a kit with the tools. Pretty helpful kit.
Man this was almost 5 years ago I’ve learned way more since then I’m currently on my second build right now.STM has the entire kit and tools
Ohh I am buying my first one next weekMan this was almost 5 years ago I’ve learned way more since then I’m currently on my second build right now.
Your first dsm if so man congrats, and pace yourself don’t rush to build son super crazy, start small and work up. I started stock all the way to 500Ish and now I want more.Ohh I am buying my first one next week
Yes brand new to the scene 68k miles 98 spyder gst guy says in second It tends to hesitate but a proper tune should make it all move well- buying a timing kit and just replacing it as soon as I get it.. also needs a new top the existing has a tearYour first dsm if so man congrats, and pace yourself don’t rush to build son super crazy, start small and work up. I started stock all the way to 500Ish and now I want more.
Sounds like you bought a cheap one. Try a better brand, or get one of the blue ones.Dang in 2 years I need to replace the belt again
Its only gone 10k miles though
Sounds like you bought a cheap one. Try a better brand, or get one of the blue ones.
That sucks. I've never even heard of the cheap ones going out after 10k miles. Much less a Gates. Anyway, good luck on your new one and the install!It's is the gates racing. Service interval is still 6 years 60k miles. My posts above were 4 years ago
But you said 2 years.You change them out after 6 years regardless of mileage