2G timing belt install help

[ruthlessriderz]

i recently put a new head on my car and did the timing belt and everything went smooth, i got maybe 200 miles on the head and i started hearing a weird noise, long story short, the tensioner went bad and the belt was slapping.

soo anyways car was running fine but made the slapping noise from the belt, so i purchased a new oem tensioner and belt. i go to do the timing and i cannot seem to get the timing set for some reason and idk what i am missing.

I zip tied the belt to the top of the cams lining up, and lined up the crank to tdc. (FYI i have a balance shaft delete) Everything looks good i go to set the tensioner and turn the crank a couple times and now the timing is off, its only a tooth off, but it don't wanna risk it.

I have tried probably a dozen times setting this timing but it keeps doing the same thing. Im running the belt from the exhaust cam down over the idler, over the oil pump sprocket to the crank sprocket and then over the tensioner, it seems like there is a little more slack on the back side of the motor than i would want before the tensioner is set and im thinking that is were the timing is jumping.

Any comments or pointers would be greatly appreciated, been working on this thing for the past 2 days now.

 

[pauleyman]

If you haven't actually started it then it isn't jumping. You're just one tooth off. Move it a tooth and reset.

 

[Alan11]

get one of these and try it again..
Jay Racing Timing Belt Tool, Fix Cam Gear Position [TBT3] - $25.00 : Jay Racing

 

[ruthlessriderz]

i have tried starting it, and it is a tooth off, but every time i set the timing its dead on, i turn the crank by hand a couple times and the belt slips a tooth and idk why.

you cant see when or where it slips but its deff slipping somewheres, i even had a buddy of mine try and hold the cams and everything while i installed the belt, and like i said it feels like there is too much slack on the back side of the motor near the idler and i have a feeling thats where my 1 tooth is.

 

[jlsjr1986]

Try lining everything up but start it one tooth off in the opposite direction that it ends up as, i had the same problem with my car so i started it a tooth off and when i turnt the crank it ended up dead in the middle.

 

[ruthlessriderz]

did u move the crank off one tooth or the cams? cause i tried the crank and i cant seem to get that to line up, the crank will be at tdc and the cams would be off a tooth, off one tooth shouldnt cause the car not to start correct? i have seen a couple different cars off a tooth and it runs but i tried starting mine and it trys but nothing, it just floods out cylinder 1 and 2 in fuel while 3 and 4 burn. so thats why im thinking the timing on the dsm's just have to be perfect

 

[jlsjr1986]

it shouldnt stop it from cranking, it should crank and skip a little bit

 

[WES_393]

You only want 1/2" of deflection at any point on the timing belt. So when you press down on the belt, it should move no more than 1/2" or so (eyeballing is fine). Too much slack can cause the timing marks to be misaligned once the belt has rotated and pulled all of the slack out.

The way I always do timing belts is to zip tie the belt to the cams with the marks absolutely perfect. Then, with the tensioner pulley, tensioner, etc all ready to go, wrap the belt around the oil pump sprocket. Since you don't have a BS, timing of course doesn't matter. Now here comes the slightly tricky part. Get the crank to it's mark without the belt on. Rotate the crank about 1/2- 1 full tooth backwards (counter clockwise) and then wrap the belt around the crank sprocket. Use the big crank bolt and washer to rotate the crank clockwise while holding the belt against the sprocket with your finger. This will take up any slack between the crank and oil pump without letting the belt skip teeth. If the crank goes to far or there is still slack, adjust the amount you turned the crank backwards.

Then, with your finger or something holding the belt against the crank sprocket, set your tensioner pulley with the hydraulic tensioner installed and ready to be released. All timing marks should still line up 100% once you have done this. If the cams have moved then try it again. Verify all timing marks line up with a few rotations of the crank and then release the hydraulic tensioner.

It really helps to have a buddy watch the cam timing marks to make sure they don't move. After your all done the belt should be nice and tight all around. The whole point is to get all of the slack on the tensioner side of the components. The timing marks being off can cause all sorts of issues, one being hard starts and rough running condition. Get the timing marks all straightened out and then go from there. I would suggest a compression test if you still can't get the engine to run.

 

[jlsjr1986]

the crank sensor might be just that sensative but i wouldnt think so

 

[Alan11]

got any pics???

Redo your timing.

Timing Belt VFAQ

Make sure you have 39 teeth between the 9 o-clock timing mark on the exhaust cam and 3 o'clock mark on the intake cam timing mark.

crank is the one with the tooth off while tensioning, if you dont have a cam gear tool use 2 wrenches... and retry till its perfect.

 

[ruthlessriderz]

thanks for all the pointers guys, im gonna tare it apart again tomorrow hopefully if the rain aint too bad and see where i can get, hopefully all goes well cause im missing the boosted life

ok soo i replaced the crank sensor trigger plate, and finally got the timing to line up mint, now the problem is no spark, throwing a code for crank sensor now, any ideas? it had no problems with the crank sensor before, so im pretty sure its not the sensor, i double checked the trigger plate and i looks like i put it on the same way it came off. i deff do not have spark whats so ever..... any ideas would be awsome, would like to get this wrapped up today

can someone please post a pic of the cams at TDC preferably with adjustable cams like mine, i figured out the crank sensor problem but now im stuck trying to get the timing right again, im still 1 tooth off

ok guys finally got the timing set, it was the exhaust cam jumping on me, but i did the bs delete and usually your supposed to get higher oil pressure and for some reason my oil pressure dropped