Timing Belt ate my motor. Now the fun begins.

[TrystanGST]

So a few thousand miles ago, I replaced the timing belt and water pump on my GSX. Last week, the new timing belt broke. I pushed the car back to the garage, and have torn down the motor. All four pistons show signs of impact, and at east four of the valves are bent.
Piston 4:

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Piston 3:

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Piston 2:

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Piston 1:

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Valves 4:

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Valves 3:

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Valves 2:

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Valves 1:

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So I turn to you guys. Do the pistons need replaced?
The car has no mods, and at this point I just want to get it running. However, I don't want to have to open it up again, so if there is anything that should be replaced now's the time.

I'm not planning on making this a 600hp awd beast, although the ability to eventually push 400 would be nice, if I choose to go that route.

I have a 6 bolt block and crank sitting around from a previous car.
Crank:

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Cyl 4:

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Cyl 3:

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Cyl 2:

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Cyl 1:

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As you can see, the crank and block would need some machine work. Is it worth swapping? I don't have much else from that block, besides the oil filter assembly and the caps for the crank.

Thanks for any info/advice.

 

[Tyeler18]

That crank looks destroyed. I would be junking that as it would never touch my car.

 

[jimbob_843]

Wait... Why do you wanna swap blocks? Nothing is wrong with the one posted above. I would roll with it and maybe dremmel down the gouges on the pistons a little but thats it. Everything else should be fine other than the head.

 

[Calan]

Wait... Why do you wanna swap blocks? Nothing is wrong with the one posted above. I would roll with it and maybe dremmel down the gouges on the pistons a little but thats it. Everything else should be fine other than the head.

Agreed, but be sure to check the pistons closely for any cracked or broken ring lands if you go this route.

 

[TrystanGST]

Thanks for the quick replies. I had the six bolt block sitting around, and everyone sings their praises. I won't swap if I don't have to replace the rotating assembly, as it's not worth it financially right now.

So just new valves for the head and a little repair on the pistons?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Yes if your not looking to be taking it all apart just have the head checked out and tested to be sure its all good and have it resurfaced. Install new valves and lifters too if you wanted. And just be sure to check your pistons out as thoroughly as possible and smooth out the impact areas as to prevent hotspots. Timing component kit + water pump if desired and put it back together! Also maybe check the crank bearings for any damage as well as this would be the best time to replace them if needed.

 

[TallestHERETIC]

When I did mine on my old 420A, i got one of them tools from Autozone that "holds" the timing and attaches to the gears while you simply just slide out the old belt for the new one. Looks like a rectangle with four cylinder head bolts on the corners.

It's an interference engine like the 4G63, so it should work for you. My 420A lasted 3 years all the way up until I hydrolocked it trying to use it as a boat!

Just a suggestion! Also might turn out to be cheaper than you thought if you can find another block, IMO.

 

[TrystanGST]

Opinions on this?

Mitsubishi 95-99 Eclipse Turbo 4G63 G6S Cylinder Head MICH4G63DLT | eBay

My brother insists that it is an actual machine shop and should be fine, but it's ebay parts that got me INTO this mess.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

ebay = not so good

 

[Pipnorcali]

Which tbelt did you use

 

[TrystanGST]

95-99 Mitsubishi Turbo Timing Belt Kit Water Pump 4G63 | eBay

It wasn't this item exactly, but it was from the same vendor ><

 

[nuclearr]

Get a mitusbishi one.

Or for a stronger belt get the gates (blue), hks, there is also another good one I can not rember. The cost more but they hold up better.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

If buying off ebay I would only suggest buy from topline. As my brother has used topline kits on a few of his chrysler turbos and I am currently running a topline rebuild kit in my GST and has been great so far. As for that head I would be a little bit weary of it as if anything happens return would be hell. Best thing really would be using a local machine shop. Just opinion but HKS T-belt would probably be my choice for my next build.

95-99 Mitsubishi Turbo Timing Belt Kit Water Pump 4G63 | eBay

It wasn't this item exactly, but it was from the same vendor ><

damn I just did a t-belt job on a tiburon a little while back and I think I bought the kit for it from that vendor. Hopefully his doesn't break

 

[TrystanGST]

FYI -

Here's the valves for those playing at home:

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[Calan]

I would suggest EPN valves from engnbldr when you rebuild it. MASSIVE bang for the buck IMO, with excellent service, pricing, and a damn nice valve.

Here is a full set of SS valves + guides + lifters for $205 :

Mitsubishi 4G63 stock size H/P stainless steel valves, guides, 3mm lashers | eBay

 

[TrystanGST]

Purchased. Good point!

Now should I replace the springs/retainers/rockers? I'm not planning on revving to the moon. 6000 or so is plenty for me.

 

[Calan]

You don't mess around! I just threw that up as an example that I found after a quick search...I don't even know if they were the right set for you. (Are your valves stock or 1mm over?)

If your stock springs are in good shape (you can have the length and spring rate checked), they will be fine for anything up to 7500rpms or so with stock or mild cams. You'll want to upgrade them though if you want to rev higher or switch to cams with an aggressive ramp rate.

As for rockers, I don't think I've ever heard of anyone replacing them unless they were broken, or they were building some ridiculous horsepower monster and did it just for reassurance.

 

[romeen]

I would have the head checked for cracked valve guides too. Another member, BogusSVT, tested some used DSM springs and found that most had weakened and were no longer in spec. If you can afford it then it's not a bad idea. But not a necessity IMO.

 

[jimbob_843]

+1000 on the engnbdlr valves. I got myself a set for like $109 shipped. He sells stock size and 1mm over. Just a stock set and lap them in. You should be good to go. As long as the guides and seats are fine.

 

[TrystanGST]

So I'm waiting to get a quote back from the local shop on the head work, I've got the engnbldr valves/guides/lifters coming, I've got ecmlink coming, I'm going to order new manley springs/retainers/locks, a new gates TB, a topline full gasket set as well as a cometic HG, some arp studs, and make sure everything is cleaned up and ready to get back together when the parts arrive. I've also ditched the evap lines.

Then I saw this:

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I'm assuming this is my CAS, and it's not supposed to look like this?